Dave 2 Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hi all I'm in the process of fitting a 12 volt fridge, using 10mm squared cable to combat voltage drop, my problem is it needs a 15 amp inline fuse because of the cable thickness. I have bought a maxi inline fuse holder in the same cable size, but the fuses only start at 20 amp. Given the fuse should be as close to the batteries as possible I don't want to fit a smaller gauge cable. Any thoughts on connecting to the fridge using the same size cable as the fridge with an 15 amp inline fuse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 A 20A fuse will be fine for 10mm2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stegra Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 What about fusing with the 20A at the battery and then with a 15A inline nearer the fridge? 20A doesn't seem too far from 15A anyway. 10mm² cable will take a lot more than 20A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 44 minutes ago, stegra said: What about fusing with the 20A at the battery and then with a 15A inline nearer the fridge? Why would you want to do that? The fuse is there to protect the cable. 20A fusing will be perfectly adequate to protect a 10mm2 cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave 2 Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 I thought the fuse was to protect the fridge!, so I might go for both fuses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 2 minutes ago, Dave 2 said: I thought the fuse was to protect the fridge!, so I might go for both fuses. That will be extra joints you will be putting in the cable that you are trying to reduce the volt drop on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 2 hours ago, Dave 2 said: Hi all I'm in the process of fitting a 12 volt fridge, using 10mm squared cable to combat voltage drop, my problem is it needs a 15 amp inline fuse because of the cable thickness. I have bought a maxi inline fuse holder in the same cable size, but the fuses only start at 20 amp. Given the fuse should be as close to the batteries as possible I don't want to fit a smaller gauge cable. Any thoughts on connecting to the fridge using the same size cable as the fridge with an 15 amp inline fuse? Are you sure it's 15amp, the common danfoss bd35 compressor that's in these fridges require 30amp fuse (12v). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 50 minutes ago, Robbo said: Are you sure it's 15amp, the common danfoss bd35 compressor that's in these fridges require 30amp fuse (12v). I have not seen where the OP states the make of fridge (have I missed it ?) My Waeco fridge manual states : ➤ Connect the refrigerator – as directly as possible to the poles of the battery or – to a 12 or 24 V DC socket. Fit a fuse in the positive wire of at least 15A (for 12V) or 7.5A (for 24V) (fig. e 1, page 9). ➤ Connect the red cable (fig. e rt, page 9) to the positive terminal of the battery. ➤ Connect the black cable (fig. e sw, page 9) to the negative terminal of the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Just now, Alan de Enfield said: I have not seen where the OP states the make of fridge (have I missed it ?) My Waeco fridge manual states : ➤ Connect the refrigerator – as directly as possible to the poles of the battery or – to a 12 or 24 V DC socket. Fit a fuse in the positive wire of at least 15A (for 12V) or 7.5A (for 24V) (fig. e 1, page 9). ➤ Connect the red cable (fig. e rt, page 9) to the positive terminal of the battery. ➤ Connect the black cable (fig. e sw, page 9) to the negative terminal of the battery. I was looking at the manual for a danfoss compressor bd35f which seems to be the common compressor in most 12v fridges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, Dave 2 said: I thought the fuse was to protect the fridge!, so I might go for both fuses. If the fridge requires a fuse (which it may) then it should be within the fridge. You shouldn't have to fuse the feed to protect it. What fridge is it? Edited March 23, 2017 by WotEver Shoreline instructions suck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave 2 Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Sorry it's a Shoreline fridge looking at the instructions it quotes a 15amp fuse, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Just now, Dave 2 said: Sorry it's a Shoreline fridge looking at the instructions it quotes a 15amp fuse, How is that worded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Is it this? http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/admin/document_library/RRInstructions_BD35ONLY.v16_011211.pdf if so, then that's a dumb requirement. Yes, a 20A at the battery end of the cable and a 15A close to the fridge would work but Shoreline should really rethink that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave 2 Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 For protection of the installation a fuse must be mounted in the cable as close to the battery as possible. 15A fuse for 12V and 7.5 for 24V circuits are recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Just now, Dave 2 said: For protection of the installation a fuse must be mounted in the cable as close to the battery as possible. 15A fuse for 12V and 7.5 for 24V circuits are recommended. Yup, as per that link I posted. I think the easiest for you will be a 20A fuse near the battery and then near the fridge change to smaller cable so that you can fit a 15A fuse there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Looks like I was looking at the manual for the BD35 heavy duty so ignore my comment above. The normal BD35 manual recommends 15amp for 12v as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Actually not as per the link I supplied. There's confusion here. In my link it requires a 15A fuse 'to protect the appliance'. The wording you quote is 'to protect the installation'. The 20A fuse would protect 'the installation'. Maybe an email to Shoreline? tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave 2 Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Cheers for the info, it also states avoid extra junctions in the power supply system to prevent voltage drop from effecting the battery protection settings. So I'll drop them an email. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave 2 Posted March 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Sorry duff information it's an inlander fridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 This is the bit that surprised me. the low voltage cut out and in values Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said: This is the bit that surprised me. the low voltage cut out and in values The Waeco figures are : For safety reasons the refrigerator is equipped with an electronic system to prevent the polarity being reversed. This protects the refrigerator against reversed polarity when connecting to a battery and against short circuiting. To protect the battery, the refrigerator switches off automatically if the voltage is insufficient. 12 V Cut-off voltage 10.4 V Cut-in voltage 11.7 V Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 10 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said: The Waeco figures are : For safety reasons the refrigerator is equipped with an electronic system to prevent the polarity being reversed. This protects the refrigerator against reversed polarity when connecting to a battery and against short circuiting. To protect the battery, the refrigerator switches off automatically if the voltage is insufficient. 12 V Cut-off voltage 10.4 V Cut-in voltage 11.7 V I was comparing them to the 24 volt ones cut out at 22 volts and in at 24.4 volts which is what, over 50% SOC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuthound Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 11 hours ago, WotEver said: Is it this? http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/admin/document_library/RRInstructions_BD35ONLY.v16_011211.pdf if so, then that's a dumb requirement. Yes, a 20A at the battery end of the cable and a 15A close to the fridge would work but Shoreline should really rethink that. You wouldn't get any discrimination between a 20A and 15A fuse. Both would blow under a fault condition. Failsafe but irritating. Better to fuse the cable down to 15A if that is what is required for the fridge in my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 Just now, cuthound said: Better to fuse the cable down to 15A if that is what is required for the fridge in my opinion. But OP's problem was that a megafuse holder was the only thing that fits 10mm cable but the links start at 20A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuthound Posted March 24, 2017 Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 1 minute ago, WotEver said: But OP's problem was that a megafuse holder was the only thing that fits 10mm cable but the links start at 20A You can get reducing ferrules to crimp in the cable ends and which then fit smaller terminations, specifically to overcome this problem. https://www.google.co.uk/search?client=tablet-android-samsung&ei=kdHUWITJJsSMgAacvZxA&q=cable+end+reducing+ferrules&oq=cable+end+reducing+ferrules&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3..35i39k1.4583.5280.0.6318.6.6.0.0.0.0.260.642.3j1j1.5.0....0...1c.1.64.mobile-gws-serp..1.5.638...30i10k1.KiicU7F-LAk#imgrc=9yoRrvazE5UCoM: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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