Urgent advice please - Broke the glass in stove door!

[rusty69]

 

As far as I am aware very few, if any, stoves that get fitted into boats actually have flue dampers so there is nothing restricting the flue. This means that as long as the stove and flue are to produce some draw and air leaking through small gaps in the glass will be drawn up the flue so CO will not be able to flow the other way (out of the stove into the boat). This is why Parkrays can use segmented glass and why they do not use sealing rope on the door, only a metal face to face seal. This is why Arthur had no problems with cracked stove glasses.

 

I do think the OP did all she could to deal with the crack. My only worry would be if a banked up fire ran away while she was at work and cracked the glass so a bit fell out.

 

While I agree that CO is a danger I feel in this particular case a procedure was put forward that presented greater risks than any CO passing through the crack.

 

Please advise if it is my suggestion you are refering to.

[bizzard]

Indeed everything goes up the chimney. Blow back can happen if the wind gusts blow down it, Or a big stinking stifling blow back can occur on Christmas eve when father Christmas with your presents is on his way down your flue, but only if you've been good, of course.

I frequently cook actually in my stoves furnace, I'm heating a pie in there at this very moment, uncovered. I have house bricks on either side of my grate to cut the heat down and to economize on coal. Upon these bricks I place an iron trivet, on which I place my grub to cook. I save all the various sizes of foil containers that pies and things come in in order to cook all sorts of tasty dishes usually uncovered in the furnace. There is never ever any sign of, contamination, dirt or soot on the food, and it tastes lovely.

Steam locomotive crews almost always cook there breakfast on a shovel directly in the firebox, often at speed too and no contamination occurs. Yes all the exhaust goes up the flue.

[RAM]

On the subject of difficulty removing the retaining screws/clips. Ever since I had to take my stove door to an engineering firm to have the screws drilled out, I now tweek the screws to slacken them and then retighten them every time I light the stove. I agree it's a good idea to coat them in copper grease.

[Lizzy]

The glass was broken in two pieces, not just cracked. It could easily have fallen out. I didn't feel it was safe to leave it alone like that. Sorry if I didn't make that clear.

 

Anyhow, I found Uxbridge Boat Yard that has a replacement glass in stock, but no clips. I removed the two glass pieces, which didn't require moving the clips. I talked to Arada who make the stoves today and ordered a replacement kit (that was before I knew about Uxbridge but a spare one can't hurt anyway). I had the impression that he said rope seal for the glass as part of the kit, but what's in there is more like some rubbery material? Although it's very brittle and even a piece missing, so I will try to get that from Uxbridge as well. Just wondering what's supposed to go in there? On the website it says for the kit "Thermoseal (to use as a gasket)". The picture also looks like a rope:

http://www.aradastovesandspares.com/product_detail.php?brand=AAR&brandname=Hamlet%20Stove%20Spares&stovetype=M&category=GL&subcategory=GLKS&code=AFS1214&description=GLASS%20KIT

 

I'm never going to fit such a thick rope under there! Well we shall see.

 

This is what it looks like on mine:

[NilesMI]

You want some thermal sealing tape, mentioned in #45, to seat the new glass into the recess in the door. It's possible some other material has been used to seal the old glass in your door, but as you say, it goes brittle and that may be one reason why your glass has cracked. The tape makes more of a cushioned seal. You just buy the required length to cut to size. Lay it in the recess, place the glass on top then the clips will squash the glass against the tape, forming a seal. Your stove door looks similar to mine, so you may then need to trim any excess tape from the outer side of the door.

 

I would imagine any place selling the glass would almost certainly sell you some suitable tape. Check what width of recess your door has, so you know what width of tape to look for.

[BruceinSanity]

You want some thermal sealing tape, mentioned in #45, to seat the new glass into the recess in the door. It's possible some other material has been used to seal the old glass in your door, but as you say, it goes brittle and that may be one reason why your glass has cracked. The tape makes more of a cushioned seal. You just buy the required length to cut to size. Lay it in the recess, place the glass on top then the clips will squash the glass against the tape, forming a seal. Your stove door looks similar to mine, so you may then need to trim any excess tape from the outer side of the door.

 

I would imagine any place selling the glass would almost certainly sell you some suitable tape. Check what width of recess your door has, so you know what width of tape to look for.

Or if the door comes off, take it into the store.

[mross]

As said in an earlier post, if it was a single crack and the glass was not loose I would have left the fire in. The CO gas could escape through the crack but it could equally escape through the lower or upper vent, but it doesn't. The stove is under a partial vacuum when lit. OP was obviously sensible in doing what she did because her assessment was that the glass might fall in.

[Cheshire cat]

It seams to be off in the picture Bruce. The rope seal fits around the outside of the door frame and yours looks OK. The tape being referred to is the white stuff on your picture.

[Lizzy]

Got a new glass and rope seal from Uxbridge Boat Centre. I'm always impressed how much useful stuff quite small shops have! From what I've heard here, I have the impression that the Becton Bunny is a particularly good design with regards to the glass fixtures. Not a single screw, everything is held together with clips. It was a doddle to change it. Warming up again now ....

[ditchcrawler]

Got a new glass and rope seal from Uxbridge Boat Centre. I'm always impressed how much useful stuff quite small shops have! From what I've heard here, I have the impression that the Becton Bunny is a particularly good design with regards to the glass fixtures. Not a single screw, everything is held together with clips. It was a doddle to change it. Warming up again now ....

Result

[Geo]

Lizzy,

 

Don't try to replace the clips just twist to the side and twist back over the glass may need pliers to slightly lift them.

 

The seal rope squashes to nothing under the glass and will be no problem.

[Guest]

Lizzy,

 

Don't try to replace the clips just twist to the side and twist back over the glass may need pliers to slightly lift them.

 

The seal rope squashes to nothing under the glass and will be no problem.

I think you are too late, the job is as they say is jobbed...

 

Got a new glass and rope seal from Uxbridge Boat Centre. I'm always impressed how much useful stuff quite small shops have! From what I've heard here, I have the impression that the Becton Bunny is a particularly good design with regards to the glass fixtures. Not a single screw, everything is held together with clips. It was a doddle to change it. Warming up again now ....

[Geo]

I think you are too late, the job is as they say is jobbed...

 

Yep that's the trouble using the phone, can't shoot through the thread and back again. But the info is there for the next person.