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Stern Gland Packing


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I didn't think the pusher actually touches the shaft in a bearing kind of way?

The stern tube bearing including the pusher, being plain bearings have a few thou play in them when made. If they didn't and were an absolute perfect precision fit they would hardly get lubricated, grease or indeed water would have great difficulty getting between the shaft and bearing tube to lubricate them.

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The lantern rings that I am familiar with had threaded holes on the face. But, as one never knew what thread they had, it was easier to use the packing extractor to wheek them out. The corkscrew would normally enter the threaded hole enough to get a grip.

 

I understand your wish to renew the packing while the boat is out of the water - that is a wise thought. But if you repack it and then it leaks you will wish you had let it alone!

 

big_PM650.jpg

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The lantern rings that I am familiar with had threaded holes on the face. But, as one never knew what thread they had, it was easier to use the packing extractor to wheek them out. The corkscrew would normally enter the threaded hole enough to get a grip.

 

I understand your wish to renew the packing while the boat is out of the water - that is a wise thought. But if you repack it and then it leaks you will wish you had let it alone!

 

big_PM650.jpg

I think I have decided to leave its as it is. It has given me the chance to inspect and measure it, so next time I will have the correct tool, and some packing available. If I ever get round to fitting a bilge pump I may even risk doing it while the boat is in the water, but I doubt it, unless it is an emergency,

 

Thanks for your input

Mine is PTFE and was put in 15 years ago, I think I have only adjusted it once in that time if I remember right.

Thanks for that, so chances are it probably is PTFE. Do you know if that is harder than the rope seal?

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Thanks for that, so chances are it probably is PTFE. Do you know if that is harder than the rope seal?

Can't say I noticed when I fitted it, but it was a long time ago. I have a bit on the boat but wont be back there for a while

edi

I think it was this one http://www.asap-supplies.com/propeller-drivetrain/gland-packing-and-removal-tools/prop-shaft-gland-packing/drive-force-ptfe-flax-sturntite-gland-packing-807531

Edited by ditchcrawler
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Lantern rings.

This is the first I've ever heard of them, are they a new idea, or an old one that has fallen out of favour?

I've changed the packing on our 1998 Colecraft, but didn't spot any.

 

Bod

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Could it be that the ptfe rope isn't cut but put on as a complete spiral, ie one length of rope.

Also dont bother with the corkscrew remover it won't enter the ptfe rope.

a 100 mm phillips screw and a battery powered drill will be better.

Pump up the grease prior to removal, don't turn the propellor or it breaks the seal a bit,

and it leaks a bit. Otherwise leave it it alone until it leaks and you can't stop the leak

even with 15 foot lbs on the spanner (15 foot lbs is enough to open a new jar of jam)

Then carry a new length of ptfe rope, buy it from ASAP, and fit it then. It only takes

a couple of hours as long as the side bolts have not been stripped of thread.

ken

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On no account wind the packing on in one long length because it will screw water into the boat in either forward or reverse gear depending on which way its wound on. If water comes in whilst driving forwards you'll probably find that you'll have to go everywhere in reverse to stop the boat sinking until its rectified.

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No, you don't fit packing as one continuous spiral! Each turn should be cut to length with care to get the length correct. You don't want any gaps as water will take the easy route and stuffing box will leak. Be careful not to overtighten the gland as this can cause overheating and or scoring of the shaft.

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