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Cash for old batteries


by'eck

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I know this topic has been raised before but thought it worth mentioning my recent experience which may benefit others.

 

Recently had need to dispose of five old 110 Ah leisure batteries. Googled the nearest scrap yard and found a local branch of European Metal Recycling (EMR) at Kingsbury near Tamworth. A phone call confirmed they would take them for cash. Current price is £450/metric ton. Slight issue because I didn't have an account, but one was quickly set up for me once I confirmed my ID with driving licence, and received cheque for £50.85. It would have been paid direct to my account but for the inevitable computer issue. Note they have branches around the country.

 

BTW the four year old batteries were cheapo sealed leisure and have been charged throughout their life at 14.8 absorb voltage with both mains chargers and engine alternators. I prized open up a couple before taking them to scrap yard and found electrolyte around a half inch above plates on every cell. Puts paid to some myths maybe.

 

 

  • Greenie 1
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Lead-Calcium batteries can take - and need - quite high voltages. IMO they die from plate shedding rather than loss of electrolyte. What are you replacing them with?

 

These. Not sure how they differ in construction from other leisure batteries but they are claimed to be deep cycle supported by not having a CCA rating. Not sure how they provide an extra 15 Ah either but happy to remain pessimistic about these claims since they dropped straight in to battery box. Got a deal on five with next day delivery.

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Lead-Calcium batteries can take - and need - quite high voltages. IMO they die from plate shedding rather than loss of electrolyte.

 

Yes, tell that to the distributors and some doomsday merchants on this forum though. Totally agree that the likely demise of the four year old Shield batteries was due to plate shedding. They otherwise showed all the signs of healthy batteries but with seriously diminished capacity. They were removed fully charged but was surprised at the consistent SG readings I got using a refractometer you recommended, all cells were close to 1.32 which seems very high and would have maybe caused plate corrosion.

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Good luck with Battery Megastore delivery. Lost a whole weekend, (Fri sat mon), waiting in for them, only to find they never made it to the courier. Used Tanya twice since with great success.

 

At 23kg, they don't seem heavy enough to be anything close to deep cycle, but you may be pleasantly surprised.

 

ETA: I see you already have them so presumably delivery was successful :)

Edited by Richard10002
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Good luck with Battery Megastore delivery. Lost a whole weekend, (Fri sat mon), waiting in for them, only to find they never made it to the courier. Used Tanya twice since with great success.

 

At 23kg, they don't seem heavy enough to be anything close to deep cycle, but you may be pleasantly surprised.

 

ETA: I see you already have them so presumably delivery was successful smile.png

 

Yes totally agree regarding weight although couldn't they just have a lesser number of thicker plates given the same amount of lead. I'm under no dillusions that they will have the longevity of T105's although they come with a 4 year warranty FWIW.

 

Delivery was spot on next day via UK Mail who gave tracking to a one hour window.

Edited by by'eck
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BTW the four year old batteries were cheapo sealed leisure and have been charged throughout their life at 14.8 absorb voltage with both mains chargers and engine alternators. I prized open up a couple before taking them to scrap yard and found electrolyte around a half inch above plates on every cell. Puts paid to some myths maybe.

 

It's all about the tail current. What sort of number did you get?

 

 

Yes, tell that to the distributors and some doomsday merchants on this forum though. Totally agree that the likely demise of the four year old Shield batteries was due to plate shedding. They otherwise showed all the signs of healthy batteries but with seriously diminished capacity. They were removed fully charged but was surprised at the consistent SG readings I got using a refractometer you recommended, all cells were close to 1.32 which seems very high and would have maybe caused plate corrosion.

 

High SG increases gassing voltage AFAIK, which seems to make sense for sealed wet batts.

 

Lowering the SG should increase standby life at the expense of water use, charge times, maybe capacity too I expect.

Edited by smileypete
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It's all about the tail current. What sort of number did you get?

 

Consistently low, little over an amp at 14.8 volts and obviously less on float, and throughout their life

 

 

High SG increases gassing voltage AFAIK, which seems to make sense for sealed wet batts.

 

Agreed although would have expected it to drop with ageing. Wouldn't such a high SG relate to high acid content hence accelerated plate corrosion?

 

 

Lowering the SG should increase standby life at the expense of water use, charge times, maybe capacity too I expect

 

Would have thought that is something the end user is not in control of, assuming you want to fully recharge batteries regularly.

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I know this topic has been raised before but thought it worth mentioning my recent experience which may benefit others.

 

Recently had need to dispose of five old 110 Ah leisure batteries. Googled the nearest scrap yard and found a local branch of European Metal Recycling (EMR) at Kingsbury near Tamworth. A phone call confirmed they would take them for cash. Current price is £450/metric ton. Slight issue because I didn't have an account, but one was quickly set up for me once I confirmed my ID with driving licence, and received cheque for £50.85. It would have been paid direct to my account but for the inevitable computer issue. Note they have branches around the country.

 

BTW the four year old batteries were cheapo sealed leisure and have been charged throughout their life at 14.8 absorb voltage with both mains chargers and engine alternators. I prized open up a couple before taking them to scrap yard and found electrolyte around a half inch above plates on every cell. Puts paid to some myths maybe.

 

 

 

 

What myths?

 

I've not heard any stories about electrolyte levels on sealed batteries. Only that that they need slightly different charging from open cells. Or are you saying that IS the myth?

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What myths?

 

I've not heard any stories about electrolyte levels on sealed batteries. Only that that they need slightly different charging from open cells. Or are you saying that IS the myth?

I think the myth is that you have to be very careful not to charge sealed leisure batteries at too high a voltage. Many folk recommend 14.4v max. However with lead calcium batteries the gassing voltage is quite high and 14.8v, which is normally considered too high for sealed batteries, is in fact fine. I'd agree with Richard's findings, when we had unsealed leisure (lead calcium) batteries they were charged at quite high voltages but never needed topping up. In the end I did top them up once in their lifetime but I think if I hadn't, the plates would still have been covered when I junked them.

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What myths?

 

I've not heard any stories about electrolyte levels on sealed batteries. Only that that they need slightly different charging from open cells. Or are you saying that IS the myth?

 

The myth I was referring too is that any sealed lead/acid battery will suffer electrolyte loss and eventually have their life curtailed (when the plates become uncovered) if you charge at over the suppliers recommended 14.4 volts.

 

My belief given the high gassing voltage of lead calcium batteries (which virtually all sealed lead/acid batteries are nowadays) was that not only will they not suffer but will benefit from higher charge voltages (reduced sulphation, quicker charge times etc.), based on findings with several sets of such. Its only on this recent occasion that I took the trouble to break a couple open though.

 

The subject has been discussed before but many were reluctant to deviate from suppliers advice.

 

Note that I have never left them at that higher absorb voltage once fully charged though, since both my mains chargers and alternators have a float mode.

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Isn't it a 'Mol', rather than a mole?

 

It's both. There are many sources, but from Wikipedia

 

The mole is one of the base units of the SI, and has the unit symbol mol

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mole_(unit)

 

I've seen it referenced in equations in the form of "x moles + y = z mol"

 

Tony

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