Rebuild of nb African Queen

[stuart]

 

 

My friend has recently brought this unusual looking boat. It was cheap but does need over plating.

 

He's managed to rope me & a mate into helping him strip & re-fit out the boat.

 

Basic overview:

• BMC 1.5 engine (just refurbished before purchase of boat)
  
• 35ft long
  
• Unusual "diving platform" on back
  
• Needs over plating!!
  

Jim Sheads site states:

 

AFRICAN QUEEN Built by ARCRITE - Length: 36 feet (10.98 metres) Beam: 6 feet 10 inches (2.08 metres).Metal hull power of 15BHP. Registered with BW number 69628 as a Powered.

 

Any one know anything about builder Arcrite?

 

 

Now to cut a long story short, the boat was sold with 12months left on the BSS. The boat has had 2 previous BSS'es both by the previous owner, and both by the same BSS man. Unfortunately the BSS man has been struck off by BW a short while ago - rendering the BSS useless.

 

After a re-test (at own expense) the boat was practically condemned, a short legal battle commenced against previous owner - who I shall not name or go into further detail.

 

So my friend now has a boat, needing to have plenty of work to bring it up to BSS standard, then needs stripping, overplating and a refit out. Should only take a couple of weeks

 

The highlights of the BSS were:

• Leaking LPG from various points
  
• Too many joins in LPG pipe
  
• Unsuitable LPG locker
  
• Flue incorrect for the fitted Paloma heater
  
• Almost no ventilation provided
  
• Joints on solid fuel stove leaking fumes/smoke
  
• 240v electrical system is best described as "dangerous"
  
• 12v electrical system is best described as "why have a 6ft piece of cable when lots of 6" pieces joined together will do"
  
• Fuses (optional!)
  

I didn't have a hand in the buying process, but anyone thinking of buying a second hand boat, please ensure you check the validity of the BSS and if you like, perform your own examination of the boat to BSS standards, just take the book and follow what it says.

 

I'll update this blog with pictures of the best bits, dangerous bits and hopefully the completed article over the next months.

[stuart]

As a quick update, heres the exact BSS failure notice...

 

From the BSS report 15 Oct 06

 

2.1.2 Diesel Sign has been painted over

2.4.2 Flame Arrestor not fitted

2.10.2 + 2.10.3 Fuel Hoses not to standard. Hose crushed

2.12.2 Filter not recognised as marine type

2.12.3 Fuel shut-off not signed

2.15.2 Exhaust not lagged effectively

3.1.2 Batteries not secured

3.2.3 240+12v cables damaged

3.3.2 Cables against LPG+ fuel lines

3.4.1 Battery cable connections to be fitted

3.6.5 Battery isolator not signed

6.1.1 Additional portable fire extinguisher required

6.2.1 Fire blanket required

7.2.1 Holes in (LPG) locker

7.4.1 Single cylinder is not secure

7.6.2 Shut off valve not signed

7.7.6 Manually adjustable regulator

7.8.1 + 7.8.4 LPG pipe and joints not secured

7.9.1 LPG hose cracked and brittle

7.12.2 Failed tightness test

8.4.3 Solid fuel stove not secured

8.9.1 High level vent 9875 mm2 required Low level vent 16237 mm2 required

8.10.2 + 8.10.4 Solid fuel stove flue in poor condition

Edited March 12, 2007 by stuart

[stuart]

Heres a further update on progress. The internals are going to be completely ripped out so the overplating can be done - theres nothing worth saving except for the water pump !

 

 

 

 

The electrics on the boat are just plainly dangerous - most run under the floor, next to the gas, theres more joins than cable and no colour schemes that I can see ie. even the positive/negative on the batteries is black cable !

 

However, on the plus side, under the floor is reasonably dry (this was the old bathroom area), but the steel is a bit springy so dont jump on it!

 

 

And the engine looks in fairly good nick and starts okay...

 

Edited March 19, 2007 by stuart

[Bones]

this looks like an exciting project!!!! I am looking forward to seeing its progress!

[carlt]

Your not binning that Torgem, surely? They are the DB's.

[stuart]

Your not binning that Torgem, surely? They are the DB's.

 

Nope, although this one had fell apart - the boats owner works in the heating trade and got this Torgem rebuilt, repainted, new glass, seals and fire bricks. Custom made S/Steel chimney as well.

[Barry]

Your not binning that Torgem, surely? They are the DB's.

 

Ah that'll be the stove then

 

Wondered what language was being spoken then

[stuart]

Help please folks!

 

Heres a bunch more photos. Bit clearer this time though. All the interior has been ripped out awaiting for a hull survey (to see how bad it is) and then overplating.

 

 

The interior steel is okay, only surface rust in patches - the floor is really bad and I'm not going anywhere near that until the bottom has been rewelded!

 

On to the engine/gearbox. Its a PRM Delta 30 I believe...

 

Fuel filter - need a new "marine" one of these without the plastic drain plug - anyone know what model this is??

 

 

The mystical split charge box. I've found a label that says this was a Sterling 130 unit - anyone have any info on this??

 

dont you just love the original wiring - previous owner must have been a tight a**e, fancy not buying a new crimp terminal! These are all being replaced - the cable looks a bit suspect as well - probably caught on the pulley at some time and sliced through the insulation.

 

 

 

 

The alt. is a Halfords unit, looks fairly newish and marked HAL445 - does anyone know what make model this is??

Edited April 9, 2007 by stuart

[NB Willawaw]

Its a split charge diode unit made by Mr.Sterling. What do you need to know about it ?

 

Help please folks!

 

 

 

The mystical split charge box. I've found a label that says this was a Sterling 130 unit - anyone have any info on this??

Edited April 9, 2007 by NB Willawaw

[John Orentas]

I am not aware of any problem with plastic drain plugs and I don't think there is such a thing as a 'marine' fuel filter it is glass and plastic bowls that aren't permitted. The fuel hoses look very dodgy, you will no doubt need to change those for the BSS. inspection.

[Guest]

I am not aware of any problem with plastic drain plugs and I don't think there is such a thing as a 'marine' fuel filter it is glass and plastic bowls that aren't permitted. The fuel hoses look very dodgy, you will no doubt need to change those for the BSS. inspection.

Yep if you can believe it my brand new Vetus engine failed BSS because the engine fuel filter had a plastic drain plug. Vetus have since modified their product.

[DHutch]

Yep if you can believe it my brand new Vetus engine failed BSS because the engine fuel filter had a plastic drain plug.

But is that a incorrect product, or an incorrect BSS interpritation? I know i dont know.

 

 

Mark (willawaw) is correct. That is a sterling split charge diode unit.

- Perfectly acceptable, although not overly common (espically as most boats now have twin alternators).

- You should be able to fine wiring information for spilt-charge diode readily on the internet or charles sterling himself.

 

http://www.sterling-power.com/

 

 

Daniel

[stuart]

I am not aware of any problem with plastic drain plugs and I don't think there is such a thing as a 'marine' fuel filter it is glass and plastic bowls that aren't permitted. The fuel hoses look very dodgy, you will no doubt need to change those for the BSS. inspection.

 

My Isuzu engine failed on this point as the vetus filter unit had a plastic plug - they could melt in a fire and add fuel to the problem.

 

The fuel hoses all need replacing - just waiting for the swindlers to order them all in - took ages to measure each one !

 

Its a split charge diode unit made by Mr.Sterling. What do you need to know about it ?

 

 

Are they any good? I've noticed that the battery bank is currently connected together (so just 1 big bank) possibly this unit is knackered but I'll follow some previous advice on testing this first.

 

Whats the alternatives?

[Supermalc]

The fuel hoses all need replacing - just waiting for the swindlers to order them all in - took ages to measure each one !

 

If you need flexible fuel hoses (are they 2870?) not sure of the number, but my local hydraulic supplier has them in stock, for about half the price of the marine supplier 20 miles away. It pays to ask local boaters if they know of suppliers.......Oh and ask as many as you can find.

[John Orentas]

Tempting to use diodes for the split charge system but remember you must have an alternator specifically designed for them, the idea is that the alternator will have an extra feedback conductor from beyond the diodes to sense the voltage close to the batteries the charge voltage will loose half a volt or so through the diodes.

 

Relays work perfectly if you have units that are up to the job and that does not include those automotive ones.

[stuart]

If you need flexible fuel hoses (are they 2870?) not sure of the number, but my local hydraulic supplier has them in stock, for about half the price of the marine supplier 20 miles away. It pays to ask local boaters if they know of suppliers.......Oh and ask as many as you can find.

 

Well money has not changed hands yet so If you have the phone number that would be great! Need to ensure they have the correct BS number on them though.

 

Fuel feed and return hoses must be marked, to denote both suitability for the fuel used and fire resistance, to BS EN ISO 7840 or an equivalent standard. (Notes – Hoses marked to SAE J 1527 and DIN 4798 are acceptable.)

From

http://www.boatsafetyscheme.com/downloads/...Guide_chap2.pdf

[stuart]

Tempting to use diodes for the split charge system but remember you must have an alternator specifically designed for them, the idea is that the alternator will have an extra feedback conductor from beyond the diodes to sense the voltage close to the batteries the charge voltage will loose half a volt or so through the diodes.

 

Relays work perfectly if you have units that are up to the job and that does not include those automotive ones.

 

 

I'll need to check that the existing unit is working okay, think its a split diode rather than relay unit but I doubt the alt. has been modified as the engine was refurbed and a replacement/recon alt. was fitted I believe.

[NB Willawaw]

They're are supposed to have "special" diodes with a low voltage drop.

As with most Sterling products, it works - the design not your particular one necessarily.

You can buy a new one for about £50-60 or fit a split charge relay.

 

Is it just a domestic bank and a starter battery as it appears you've got four positive cables ?

Where do they all trace to ?

 

 

Are they any good? I've noticed that the battery bank is currently connected together (so just 1 big bank) possibly this unit is knackered but I'll follow some previous advice on testing this first.

 

Whats the alternatives?

[Supermalc]

Well money has not changed hands yet so If you have the phone number that would be great! Need to ensure they have the correct BS number on them though.

 

From

http://www.boatsafetyscheme.com/downloads/...Guide_chap2.pdf

 

Yes, that's it 7840.....Pearsons Hydraulics in Lincoln stock it. If you're ordering it, you'll need to know correct sizes and lengths of course.

[stuart]

Is it just a domestic bank and a starter battery as it appears you've got four positive cables ?

Where do they all trace to ?

 

Theres only a single starter and domestic bank - the split diode can support 3 banks (one for bow thruster) but this is not currently used.

[stuart]

The saga continues, the boat was taken to a dry dock so the overplating can be assessed to see how and where it needs doing.

 

Ultrasound testing showed that there was only 2-3mm plate left on sides and base plate - the original boat was completly built from 5mm plate it appears. No wonder the base plate was so spongy!

 

Unfortuntely after re-flooding the dry dock, the boat stayed on the bottom of the dock. I suspect the weight of the boat had caused the base to crack somewhere. Luckly we had already empied the boats interior otherwise it would all be soggy and wet now.

 

After removing the dry dock water again, the boat was then craned onto the dock side awaiting overplating.

 

Piccys to follow soon.

[John Orentas]

The saga continues,

Unfortuntely after re-flooding the dry dock, the boat stayed on the bottom of the dock. I suspect the weight of the boat had caused the base to crack somewhere. Luckly we had already empied the boats interior otherwise it would all be soggy and wet now.

 

 

Humphrey Bogart didn't have all this trouble.

[Tortoise]

Just a quick hello really - I'm working on a similar project (see my own 'build blog'), although the original 5mm hull has already been overplated by the previous owners. Sounds like your wiring was just as bad as mine. Sorry to hear about the legal hassles - to be honest I don't see how mine could have passed the BSS, but it officially did, just prior to selling. It's a great project, though, I'm learning a lot, and meeting some great people in the mean time...

 

split charge diodes: charging on mine was via an even stranger unit, proved to be diodes by checking with a meter. Again, the alternator didn't have the 'sense' connection, and so the alternator self-limiting to 14.4v was dropped down by the diodes, and as a consequence wasn't charging the batteries fully - the previous owners had replaced the alternator, and I bet they didn't need to. I've removed the diode unit, connecting the starter battery direct. Until I overhaul the engine electrics, a suitably butch manual switch has been installed to connect the domestic battery to the alternator when running the engine, impersonating a charge relay. Paranoia about this worthy of OCD has prevented me from flattening the starter battery due to not turning this off - so far... ;-)

[stuart]

Well heres an long overdue update. After sinking in the drydock after an inspection of the hull, the boat was pulled out and left on the side for a couple of months. Its been sitting and waiting for various people to come and have a look and quote for overplating the base + bottom half.Heres some more pictures out of the water. Its an usual build style, square backed + raw water cooled + mud box. Tiny propeller and rudder. It previously sat very high in the water - you can see the water line - right up to the point where it sank It generally seems that many welders + people in the know cannot be bothered to give a quote for the work. They probably dont want the hassle!

[Liam]

A very unusual "swim" arrangement at the stern end, and why on earth does it have a cratch board and top plank when there's no cratch?