what filler to use on rust spots etc ?

[sooty]

Hi, what filler do you find is the best to use on rust spots /small indents ?

I tend to clean back to metal with a small screwdriver /small piece of sandpaper and apply a rust converter,

but do I then apply a primer followed by filler, or the other way round.

Is there such a thing as a good 1 pack filler ?

The stuff I have used tends falls out of the hole when sanding it down.

Any help appreciated Thankyou

[Señor Chris]

I found marine body filler (Plastic Padding) good for that. Can be used below the waterline. It is 2 pack tho. Apply it after the rust converter.

[patty-ann]

Guess can pose other rust questions here as apposed to starting new thread...about to give Patty Ann TLC following "few" mishaps with tunnel walls etc...have quite a lot of rust in areas that had quite a big bash so I take it I sand back then apply rust converter then can I just put paint on or is there primer or similar need to apply first. Also where hatch runs there are 2 lines of rust is it possible for me to fix runner thingy to slide hatch or or is that just keep painting job?

Thanks

 

I think can live with dents cos seems complicated this filler business.

Edited April 1, 2015 by patty-ann

[blackrose]

For below the waterline International do a filler. I wouldn't use ordinary car filler like plastic padding.

 

http://www.yachtpaint.com/gbr/diy/products/fillers/watertite.aspx

[Phil Ambrose]

For Patty Ann. In case you missed any rust threads. Use a Phosphoric acid based rust treatment, sand off all loose rust but leave a colour of rust. This is what the Phosphoric acid works on, it converts Ferrous Oxide (rust) to Phosphoric oxide which is non rusting 'cos it ain't iron.

Phil

[Higgs]

Hi, what filler do you find is the best to use on rust spots /small indents ?

I tend to clean back to metal with a small screwdriver /small piece of sandpaper and apply a rust converter,

but do I then apply a primer followed by filler, or the other way round.

Is there such a thing as a good 1 pack filler ?

The stuff I have used tends falls out of the hole when sanding it down.

Any help appreciated Thankyou

 

 

I've always been suspicious of putting anything between the filler and the steel, including anti-rust preps. I would clean the steel very thoroughly with wire cup brushes and everything to hand. Clean and degrease the surface then immediately fill. Keep the work dry throughout the procedure until it is painted and waterproof.

 

In deck wells where there is pitting I've always filled. It is no good having pools of water in the pitting and fresh paint will just not cope with being submerged for prolonged periods of time. Smooth surfaces will encourage water to drain or evaporate.

[bizzard]

P38 on topsides. Apply onto the bare metal with a plastic spreader wider than the dimple in one bold swoop, like plastering. Dabbling about with little trowels and things will take ages, re-applying, smoothing, re-applying and is very wasteful.

Edited April 1, 2015 by bizzard

[David Mack]

For below the waterline International do a filler. I wouldn't use ordinary car filler like plastic padding.

 

http://www.yachtpaint.com/gbr/diy/products/fillers/watertite.aspx

Why would you need to fill dents below the waterline on a narrow boat?

[Señor Chris]

For below the waterline International do a filler. I wouldn't use ordinary car filler like plastic padding.

 

http://www.yachtpaint.com/gbr/diy/products/fillers/watertite.aspx

 

Nothing wrong with Plastic Padding as long as you get the marine version.

Why would you need to fill dents below the waterline on a narrow boat?

 

It just means it's waterproof so is better in a marine environment - above or below the waterline.

[pquinn]

Why would you need to fill dents below the waterline on a narrow boat?

So it looks all nice and smooth for any passing fish or otters.

[Phil Ambrose]

So it looks all nice and smooth for any passing fish or otters.

I wish it was 'otter at the moment so I could do without my fire.

Phil

[blackrose]

Why would you need to fill dents below the waterline on a narrow boat?

Who knows? Why would you need to fill dents below the waterline on any boat for that matter? You better ask the OP if that's what they intend to do, or ask International who manufacture and sell the product. People are obviously buying it for a reason. I was just responding to the post which said to use car body filler under the waterline.

 

I've used an underwater filler on deep pits in the wet bilges of an 1897 riveted steel steam boat when I worked in a boatyard. It was then epoxied on top. It's very good stuff, so if I had some pits in the steel of my hull below the waterline and I couldn't get weld put in them, then I might consider filing them with the same stuff until they could be properly filled with weld.

Edited April 1, 2015 by blackrose

[blackrose]

 

Nothing wrong with Plastic Padding as long as you get the marine version.

 

Ok, I didn't realise they made one for underwater applications. It's a good idea to be specific about these things when you make suggestions or recommendations on the forum, otherwise someone might use ordinary 2 part car body filler.

Edited April 1, 2015 by blackrose

[Señor Chris]

Ok, I didn't realise they made one for underwater applications. It's a good idea to be specific about these things when you make suggestions or recommendations on the forum, otherwise someone might use ordinary 2 part car body filler.

 

I thought "marine body filler" was being specific.