Swapping halogen for LED bulbs

[She25]

Morning all

 

Although I don't use them that much, I have a lot of ceiling spotlights throughout the boat which are halogen and about half of them have blown. I know they use a lot of energy, so want to swap to LED but is this a simple process or will I need a transformer?

 

The bulbs I have at the moment read 12V 50W C13. These look similar in shape but before I buy just wanted to check if it's worth it? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Focusled%C2%AE10X-spotlight-lighting-Bright-400-450LM/dp/B00HED3ZGC/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

 

Thanks

[Machpoint005]

here:

 

http://www.ukcampsite.co.uk/articles/view.asp?id=483

 

You need the 'modern' sort of SMD LEDs that can cope with a voltage that may vary from 12V - not the cheap ones.

Edited January 9, 2015 by Machpoint005

[Northernboater]

A friend of mine replaced his Halogen with LED's the only problem he encountered was with the TV, when he switched the lounge lights on he lost TV signal and it returned once he switched them off. Then he Googled it and found this article on a boating forum, He had mid priced one's about £6 each not the cheap Chinese imports off Ebay. See the link below

 

http://www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-375854.html

[DeanS]

Are your existing bulbs MR16 or GU10 type (the thin pin type or the thicker connection pin). Your replacement bulbs will need to match to use the same holders. I replaced all my halogens with ones I bought off Ebay....and have had no problems at all. I also bought some 220V LED bulbs from B&Q which were about £10 for 3, and use a lot of them in the boat, connected to the 220V supply...because we're on shorepower through winter, and the invertor is on permanently when off shorepower.

[dor]

Aren't GU10 for 230V AC?

 

Just about all my lights are now LED of varying shapes and sizes, including a small 'anglepoise" -ty pe light my wife uses for sewing.

 

No problems with these except one near the radio that caused a slight buzz. I just moved it further down the boat.

[bottle]

Morning all

 

Although I don't use them that much, I have a lot of ceiling spotlights throughout the boat which are halogen and about half of them have blown. I know they use a lot of energy, so want to swap to LED but is this a simple process or will I need a transformer?

 

The bulbs I have at the moment read 12V 50W C13. These look similar in shape but before I buy just wanted to check if it's worth it? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Focusled%C2%AE10X-spotlight-lighting-Bright-400-450LM/dp/B00HED3ZGC/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

 

Thanks

 

For those particular ones, in your link, you would need to fit a 'regulator' that is a unit to control the voltage.

 

those in your link are designed for 'house use' where they would be supplied from a transformer connected to 240v ac.

 

On a boat the voltage is never 12 volt it is always higher up to 15v is possible when charging the batteries.

 

LED units that are rated 10 to 30v are the ones to go for and have EMI suppression.

 

Links to companies that supply the correct type.

 

http://www.bedazzled.uk.com/

 

http://www.baddiethepirate.co.uk/

 

There are others.

[DeanS]

Aren't GU10 for 230V AC?

 

here's some GU10 12V halogens..

She25. Do your existing bulbs have these type of pins...

 

 

or these type

 

[Kwacker]

Try here

http://www.litecone.co.uk

[5thHorseman]

 

here's some GU10 12V halogens..

She25. Do your existing bulbs have these type of pins...

 

 

or these type

 

I thought the first type were for 230v and the straight pin for 12v so that you could not inadvertantly plug a bulb into the wrong supply voltage

 

ed to add. She25 your example from Amazon is a focused light which I would not recommend for ceiling lights as you will have you boat looking like a dance floor with just pools of light and no spread

Edited January 9, 2015 by 5thHorseman

[IDS]

If you have MR16 type pins on the base of the lamps, be careful to check the front to back dimension of replacement LED style units. Many of the LED ones from China are deeper (from front of glass face to the pins) and may not be compatible with your fittings.

Edited January 9, 2015 by IDS

[bottle]

I thought the first type were for 230v and the straight pin for 12v so that you could not inadvertantly plug a bulb into the wrong supply voltage

 

Nearly all the fittings for 230v ac are available for 12v/24v

 

Have a look at my previous links as to all the different types of fitting available.

Edited January 9, 2015 by bottle

[DHutch]

I thought the first type were for 230v and the straight pin for 12v so that you could not inadvertantly plug a bulb into the wrong supply voltage

Not so. Commonly what you say is true. But if you go looking you can find anything, you can also get both.

 

Note also that MR16 is the bulb shape and size, typically paired with a GU10 or GU5.3 base/fitting, rather than being unrelated they are talking about different parts of the lamp. GU10 alsmost only used with MR16, but some of the other two pin (bi-pin) connectors are used all over the place! The smaller size is the MR11 which is typically paired with a GU4 fiting which is simular to the GU3.5. Etc!

 

You can also get the halogens with plain aluminium reflectors or dichroic, which effects how much of the heat goes out of the back of the lamp/bulb.

 

 

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multifaceted_reflector

 

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bi-pin_connector

 

Daniel

[She25]

 

here's some GU10 12V halogens..

She25. Do your existing bulbs have these type of pins...

 

 

or these type

 

 

Hi Dean - definitely the second type.

 

Lots of answers there, thanks guys.

Are your existing bulbs MR16 or GU10 type (the thin pin type or the thicker connection pin). Your replacement bulbs will need to match to use the same holders. I replaced all my halogens with ones I bought off Ebay....and have had no problems at all. I also bought some 220V LED bulbs from B&Q which were about £10 for 3, and use a lot of them in the boat, connected to the 220V supply...because we're on shorepower through winter, and the invertor is on permanently when off shorepower.

 

Also, I'm on shorepower now but have the invertor on with a battery charger too (toilet doesn't flush without it). I should say I'm brand new to this and the boat was fitted out by the previous owner. Should I not have the invertor on?

[5thHorseman]

Thank you Keith and Daniel for puting me right on the connector type, that was indeed news to me.

 

Ed to add. in fact that's worth a greenie

Edited January 9, 2015 by 5thHorseman

[DeanS]

 

Hi Dean - definitely the second type.

 

Lots of answers there, thanks guys.

 

Also, I'm on shorepower now but have the invertor on with a battery charger too (toilet doesn't flush without it). I should say I'm brand new to this and the boat was fitted out by the previous owner. Should I not have the invertor on?

 

Hello She25. Ok. so your replacement bulbs need to have the same type of thin pin.......and as the existing halogens are 12V, just buy some LED bulbs from one of the links given in this thread (bedazzled.co.uk etc) . 12V LED bulbs can be quite expensive, but in the long run they save a fortune on batteries etc.

Like some have said, on a boat, the voltage goes up and down from about 11V to 15V depending on battery condition and charging etc, so you need to get some bulbs which can handle that....

 

If you have an invertor on all the time, you can buy yourself some normal house lamps and you can buy LED bulbs for those as well...normally from places like Klas Ohlson, B&Q. .....and they come in all kinds...the screw bulbs, bayonets, GU10 and others. (talking about things like bedside spotlights, coffee table lamps etc. Easier to just plug those into your 220V plugs if the boat has plugpoints around the place.

 

No need to live in darkness. I have seen some people with really bad lighting, and feel sorry that it's come to that for them, when it's not difficult to have light.

[She25]

Cheers, will look into it.

 

I prefer "mood lighting" to harsh brightness anyway. Hides the greys

[bottle]

 

Hi Dean - definitely the second type.

 

Lots of answers there, thanks guys.

 

Also, I'm on shorepower now but have the invertor on with a battery charger too (toilet doesn't flush without it). I should say I'm brand new to this and the boat was fitted out by the previous owner. Should I not have the invertor on?

going but you started it and it is your thread.

 

'Normal' set up is the inverter is only needed to run 240v ac equipment when away from shoreline.

 

Shoreline will run everything 240v ac up to the maximum (amps) that the shoreline can supply, possibly 16 amps but check your particular connection.

 

The charger, if 'intelligent' (three stage) can be left on all the time, the batteries will always be fully charged nd the charger will actually supply any 12v (24v) equipment you have.

 

The boat (loo) should work work correctly even if you are not on shoreline.

 

Taking 2+2 and possibly getting 5, if the loo only works with the charger on then you possibly have volt drop in the supply cables.or bad connections or a combination of both

[Machpoint005]

 

Taking 2+2 and possibly getting 5, if the loo only works with the charger on then you possibly have volt drop in the supply cables.or bad connections or a combination of both

 

I agree, but if all the batteries were knackered, wouldn't they be incapable of providing enough voltage for the bog by themselves?

[bottle]

Yes, another one to make seven.

 

2+2+1=7

[chubby]

Just a quick response from me as i m not really knowledgeable on technical matters . OP , please forgive me if my question or point in any way offends as this is not my intention & as you say your " brand " new to this .

 

Is your inverter a seperate box to your charger . I have a " combi " . It is an inverter & a charger . But not both at the same time . If you have a combi , switched to inverter then i believe it will not be charging your batteries .

 

If i plug into a shoreline , its inverter facility is not needed as the 240v will come from the mains via the bollard i plug into . Then push the switch to charger to charge & maintain the batteries.

This should then keep them charged & provide the 12 v you need for your toilet & other 12 v stuff to operate , whilst the 240 v sockets are fed from the mains .

 

To sum up - you ought not to require the inverter whilst plugged in to the shore .

 

Cheers

Edited January 9, 2015 by chubby

[smileypete]

The light quality of the really cheap ones can leave a lot to be desired. For a boat with lower ceilings, lamps with an extra wide beam angle should work better, eg 60 degrees or more.

 

Sounds like the existing ones are 12V ones commonly known as just 'MR16', sometimes known as GU 5.3 as the proper description is an MR16 shape lamp with a GU5.3 base (confusing...? ). But don't get GU10 as they're for mains not 12V.

 

Could be best have a trawl through Amazon etc and pick something with good reviews, something along these lines might do:

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/ELINKUME-440lm-Ensure-products-smoothly-transformer/dp/B00N2G2LQK/ref=sr_1_18?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1420836571&sr=1-18&keywords=mr16

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited January 9, 2015 by smileypete

[bottle]

Just a quick response from me as i m not really knowledgeable on technical matters . OP , please forgive me if my question or point in any way offends as this is not my intention & as you say your " brand " new to this .

 

Is your inverter a seperate box to your charger . I have a " combi " . It is an inverter & a charger . But not both at the same time . If you have a combi , switched to inverter then i believe it will not be charging your batteries .

 

If i plug into a shoreline , its inverter facility is not needed as the 240v will come from the mains via the bollard i plug into . Then push the switch to charger to charge & maintain the batteries.

This should then keep them charged & provide the 12 v you need for your toilet & other 12 v stuff to operate , whilst the 240 v sockets are fed from the mains .

 

To sum up - you ought not to require the inverter whilst plugged in to the shore .

 

Cheers

 

It depends on the 'combi' and how it is setup.

 

For instance mine, a Victron combi is always set to ON and never turned to charge only.

 

It senses when a 240v ac supply is available, generator or shoreline, and automatically goes into charge mode as well as passing the 240v ac straight through.

 

It will also 'assist' if the incoming 240v ac is not large enough.

[chubby]

Wrong again Chubby ,

 

I 'll get my coat .

 

 

Mine too is a Victron Combi . The switch rocks between inverter , off , charger . I thought if i was on shoreline i switch to " charger " as i didn t need " inverter " for 240v .

 

If i was using it incorrectly then this possibly explains something i just don t want to think about !!!

 

No longer on shoreline though , thank goodness .

 

OP , it appears i m talking out my back passage - ignore me !

 

Every days a schoolday ......

 

cheers

[Iain_S]

 

(snip)

Also, I'm on shorepower now but have the invertor on with a battery charger too (toilet doesn't flush without it). I should say I'm brand new to this and the boat was fitted out by the previous owner. Should I not have the invertor on?

 

The slightly branch of the thread!

 

Is it the charger or the invertor that is needed for the toilet? i.e. is the toilet working off 240V AC?

 

Iain

Edited January 10, 2015 by Iain_S

[She25]

Apologies for my run off topic. I blame, well, me.

 

Ignore the thing about the invertor / charger. I was talking rubbish. Invertor is NOT on, shoreline is. Have (finally) worked out how to switch the separate charger on and now all seems ok.

 

Back to the LEDs - can't believe it's so complicated! Everyday is indeed a school day.