Scraping the inside!

[Theo]

Theodora is enjoying her new home at Thurmaston. One of the early items on my to do list has been the scraping of the bottom on the inside. This will require lifting the floorboards and setting to with scraper, wire brush and waxoyl. I will not be able to get to all parts, though, because I am unwilling to remove the bulkheads.

 

The question is: Is all that necessary and will it prolong the dear boat's life?

 

TIA

 

Nick

[cheshire~rose]

Theodora is enjoying her new home at Thurmaston. One of the early items on my to do list has been the scraping of the bottom on the inside. This will require lifting the floorboards and setting to with scraper, wire brush and waxoyl. I will not be able to get to all parts, though, because I am unwilling to remove the bulkheads.

 

The question is: Is all that necessary and will it prolong the dear boat's life?

 

TIA

 

Nick

 

The parts you cannot get to will be helped by spraying with waxoyl. it is a bit messy to do but with a flexible pipe you can oftern aim the Waxoyl into any cavity that is inaccessible and do your best to ensure that it is all coated. Although you will not have been able to remove the rust so it is not 100% ideal it will form a coating which will certainly slow any corrosion down.

A word of warning, any that is applied fairly thickly will set nicely but as soon as we get a hot summesr day and it warmes up it will start to run and if it can ooze through gaps in panelling it will do and make a horrible mess. For that reason use sparingly on vertical surfaces!

[Guest]

I would be tempted to apply some decent rust converter before the Waxoyl, Fertan or similar.

[Theo]

The parts you cannot get to will be helped by spraying with waxoyl. it is a bit messy to do but with a flexible pipe you can oftern aim the Waxoyl into any cavity that is inaccessible and do your best to ensure that it is all coated. Although you will not have been able to remove the rust so it is not 100% ideal it will form a coating which will certainly slow any corrosion down.

A word of warning, any that is applied fairly thickly will set nicely but as soon as we get a hot summesr day and it warmes up it will start to run and if it can ooze through gaps in panelling it will do and make a horrible mess. For that reason use sparingly on vertical surfaces!

 

 

That's useful to know! What sort of sprayer do you advise?

 

Nick

[bottle]

Hi Nick

 

Waxoyl used to available in large tins with a sprayer attchment, the can was pressurised by a pump fitted to it.

 

When applying waxoyl, if spraying it on, ensure it is well mixed (shake the container to mix) and also place the can in some warm/hot water, it will spay easier and also a 'thinner' coat can be applied.

[DHutch]

Im also interested in this thread.

- Although most of emilyanne's steel is in very good nick, the bildge space under the coalbunker need some attention. As it interconnects with the enigne bildge its constantly damp/wet. But yet little oils get though to coat everything.

- Also, due to it being under the vee-bottomed coal bunker, access is extreamly difficult, so doing much at all is going to be hard (proberbly also ment it wasnt painted properly in the first place, hence why where in this mess!)

 

We're going to strip back that area this follwing year hopfully and see what it really looks like (you cant even see much atm, the access is that poor)

- But im thinking a good scrap as best i can. Possably with a scraper on a stick. Then get the big wet/dry vac on it all over, pick up all the loose rust and water. Then get a fan heater in there at really dry it out.

- Then im not quite sure what next. But proberbly get in there with rust converter and see how much of the surface i can get to with it. Then depeanding how that goes, eather re-assess, or follow it up with paint on as much as posable.

 

 

 

Daniel

[beatnik]

We're fitting out a new sailaway. Should we do this before we get too far - or is it an unnecessary job on a new hull?

[stuart]

....and also place the can in some warm/hot water, it will spay easier and also a 'thinner' coat can be applied.

 

When I did this in Winter, I needed to heat the can up a little using a small camping stove - otherwise the "wax" wouldn't come out the bottle!

 

Just dont boil it !

[Theo]

When I did this in Winter, I needed to heat the can up a little using a small camping stove - otherwise the "wax" wouldn't come out the bottle!

 

Just dont boil it !

 

 

On reading the other contributions I thank that a pan full of water on the cooker and the waxoyl container in that would be a good safe heating arrangement.

 

By the way, is waxoyl like the chain lubricant that I used on my old Honda 90?

 

Nick

[ChrisPy]

We're fitting out a new sailaway. Should we do this before we get too far - or is it an unnecessary job on a new hull?

your new sailaway should have bitumen felt on bitumen adhesive or something similar under the floorboards and up to floorboard level at the sides. for newbuilds I think that is much more practical than waxoyl.

[John Orentas]

The best way to apply Waxoyl is not to attempt to spray it, paint it on with a large brush I have an old decorators paste brush which is ideal. As for protection below the ballast I would avoid sheet materials, they act as a moisture trap. Apply Waxoyl as above and lay the concrete slaps onto old electrical cable or similar aligned fore and aft to allow any water to drain away and keep the ballast a few millimetres off the base plate.

 

Waxoyl does not re-melt in hot weather, it contains a solvent like most other compounds so it is quite stable after it has dried though it does have a self repairing quality, it can be used on top of rusty surfaces and it inhibits further corrosion, keep the application thin for best results.

Edited January 15, 2007 by John Orentas

[Gary Peacock]

We're fitting out a new sailaway. Should we do this before we get too far - or is it an unnecessary job on a new hull?

 

Oh I do love that question!

 

Oh if I had a pound for every time it was asked! Seriously if you like making work and like the smell of the slimy horrible stuff do it, but in reality there's no point on a new boat that should have bone dry bilges.

 

This seems to be one of those great urban myths of the cut.

Edited January 15, 2007 by Gary Peacock

[Theo]

Thanks for all the replies. It looks as is I am going to have to do it, then!

 

Nick

 

 

Thanks for all the replies. It looks as is I am going to have to do it, then!

 

 

Where will I get Waxoyl and can anyone give me an idea of coverage?

 

Nick

[Supermalc]

I've always been sceptical about all the 'magical' products.......however I did have a surprise with Waxoil.

 

Workmate in the 80s had car which he did with it, and after a few years had no rust problems.

 

In 1990 while not on my own, we had a 'proper car' a 4 year old Fiasco (Fiesta). About 18 months later, after a trip following the salt wagon one night, the front flitch plates (the corners under the bonnet) became rusty, as did the short chassis rails at the front. Following a suggestion I coated with Waxoil, and the flitch plates didn't rust any more, and the chassis looked like new when she left 3 years later.

 

Converted? Well when I bought my first 'proper car' i.e. one costing over 50quid, I bought a can. Only it's still upstairs in the spare room. Why? I got a boat. What's that to do with it? Well I kept it at my mate's garage, who took me to the river, and I then delayed him getting back, so we fell out. I lost the use of the ramp etc. and have had a boat to entertain me since.

 

So my Clio van, which had only done 33k and now 73k five years later, and so should last the rest of my life, now has rusty arches, and will no doubt soon have rusty cills. Meaning I'm going to have to be welding rusty cars YET AGAIN. Something I vowed never to do again years ago.

 

Moral - yes, Waxoil does work, and is a well worthwhile job. Spray the parts you cannot reach, and brush the rest. Much easier than painting. 2 one gallon cans should easily cover the inside, and if you've any left over it keeps. Car accessory shops sell it, or did only a few years ago.

[bottle]

Google waxoyl one link

 

Halfords will have it and probably 'motor factors' (Yellow pages)

[DHutch]

We're fitting out a new sailaway. Should we do this before we get too far - or is it an unnecessary job on a new hull?

That has to depend on the hull, and how well its been painted where.

- Im a strong bleaver that best time to paint the inside of the shell properbly is before you fit it out, not 10years later when its having a good rust!

- That said, if it has been painted properbly, espically the baseplate and bottom 6inchs of the sides or so, then theres no need to repeat that yourself.

 

I dont think i would use waxoil though... Ive never used it myself, or really seen it in use, but it just sounds a bit like a shitty bodge for where real paint should be?

 

 

 

Daniel

[Theo]

I've always been sceptical about all the 'magical' products.......however I did have a surprise with Waxoil.

 

Workmate in the 80s had car which he did with it, and after a few years had no rust problems.

 

In 1990 while not on my own, we had a 'proper car' a 4 year old Fiasco (Fiesta). About 18 months later, after a trip following the salt wagon one night, the front flitch plates (the corners under the bonnet) became rusty, as did the short chassis rails at the front. Following a suggestion I coated with Waxoil, and the flitch plates didn't rust any more, and the chassis looked like new when she left 3 years later.

 

Converted? Well when I bought my first 'proper car' i.e. one costing over 50quid, I bought a can. Only it's still upstairs in the spare room. Why? I got a boat. What's that to do with it? Well I kept it at my mate's garage, who took me to the river, and I then delayed him getting back, so we fell out. I lost the use of the ramp etc. and have had a boat to entertain me since.

 

So my Clio van, which had only done 33k and now 73k five years later, and so should last the rest of my life, now has rusty arches, and will no doubt soon have rusty cills. Meaning I'm going to have to be welding rusty cars YET AGAIN. Something I vowed never to do again years ago.

 

Moral - yes, Waxoil does work, and is a well worthwhile job. Spray the parts you cannot reach, and brush the rest. Much easier than painting. 2 one gallon cans should easily cover the inside, and if you've any left over it keeps. Car accessory shops sell it, or did only a few years ago.

 

 

It's sounding better and better! I am all fired up to get on with it now.

 

1st job find where the water in the cabin biliges is coming from

2nd sort it out

3rd allow to dry

4th set to with the Waxoyl

 

NIck

[Supermalc]

I dont think i would use waxoil though... Ive never used it myself, or really seen it in use, but it just sounds a bit like a shitty bodge for where real paint should be?

Daniel

 

Not sure it isn't a good idea actually Daniel. Remember all you are doing is stopping oxygen from contact with steel, which has the chemical action of converting it to magnetic oxide of iron (rust).

 

Remembered that bit from college

 

However there are now substances to stop, and even revert the process, which are in Waxoil, amongst others, including some paints.

 

As Waxoil spreads better than paint, it should also cover better, and more thoroughly, so in areas where it doesn't have to be dry, like paint which could get rubbed off, or mess clothes etc. I'd think it much better.

 

I'd like to hear an expert opinon.

 

Before Waxoil, I remember a lady who had her car sprayed with oil at the garage every year. Some of my friends did this to their cars, with waste oil (I usually broke mine before it got to winter LOL). The new oil didn't preserve her car as much as the waste oil did. This isn't an 'unban myth' but something I experienced first hand.

[bottle]

My brother in laws uncle always used his waste oil (oil change ) to coat the under side of his car, did an excellent job of protection.

[John Orentas]

I think a lot of people have a mistaken idea of Waxoyl. It isn't at all messy to use, in fact if you get it on your hands it has the feel of candle wax, smooth to the touch and easily removed not at all sticky as other compounds can be.

[carlt]

I think a lot of people have a mistaken idea of Waxoyl. It isn't at all messy to use, in fact if you get it on your hands it has the feel of candle wax, smooth to the touch and easily removed not at all sticky as other compounds can be.

 

When I did the chassis on my landrover I came out like a walking candle!

[Ricardo]

We're fitting out a new sailaway. Should we do this before we get too far - or is it an unnecessary job on a new hull?

 

I visited a well known boat builders in Liverpool a few years ago and there was a chap at the front of the premises chucking paving slabs through the window of a new shell, if I bought a sailaway from that company the first thing I'd do is remove the ballast and repaint the floor.

 

Ric.

[John Orentas]

When I did the chassis on my landrover I came out like a walking candle!

 

 

Carl.

 

Please don't elaborate further, you can leave the analogy of the wick is to our imaginations.

[Hairy-Neil]

I dont think i would use waxoil though... Ive never used it myself, or really seen it in use, but it just sounds a bit like a shitty bodge for where real paint should be?

Daniel

 

Real paint is fine if its put on a well prepared surface such as shot blasted and then properly maintained thereafter. Boat bilges rarely get this treatment though, and maintenance thereafter? Forget it.....

 

The shitty bodge you refer to however can be applied over a poorly prepped surface (mill scale) in a fraction of the time and then neglected almost for ever and will exclude the oxygen which is what preventing corrosion is all about.

 

There are better products about the car repair trade for similar cash than the usual brand though that don't need to be stood in a bucket of water. And spray guns are available for about a tenner that will handle the same to professional standards and you could hire a compressor for the day. The DIY guns supplied with proprietory products are little more than a joke, its a wonder trading standards have never been involved as they are clearly not fit for purpose.

 

 

You can also buy paper boilersuits with hood and then throw it away when you've done.....They are less than a fiver.

 

BTW, most boats rot away more from the inside out than the outside which is protected by anodes.

[carlt]

You can also buy paper boilersuits with hood and then throw it away when you've done.....They are less than a fiver.

I did! It still got in and, after finally removing it and folding it up with a lump hammer, I burnt it because I didn't dare throw it away (I had a bag of old french polishing rags blow up on me once)