paint additive

[moondancer]

anyone know a good additive to reduce brush strokes when painting my boat................cheers...mack

[kitman]

Whose paint are you using?

[NB Lola]

Try http://www.owatrol.com/index.php?langue=en&page=gamme-metal

[JDR]

Owatrol works very well as a thinner.

[blackrose]

Try some elbow grease.

[Chop!]

Try some elbow grease.

Surely 'elbow grease' would do nothing to lessen brush strokes, Owatrol helps, as do good quality brushes and experience in 'cutting in', but elbow grease is better used in posting unhelpful comments! LOL!

[dave moore]

Please listen to any advice offered by Kitman, he's a professional who knows what he's talking about! Other factors come in to play too, such as location, weather conditions etc. Much depends on the quality of finish you are aiming for. Lately I've lettered boats with flawless finishes by professional painters working under cover as well as a couple of boats with a much more rustic final coat. Many professionals favour Purdey brushes, but the key to it all, I think, is the preparation that goes in to previous coats. No amount of Owatrol or other conditioner can atone for shoddy preparation, though I'll admit that it's soul destroying work, especially in poor conditions.

Good luck!

 

Dave

[Higgs]

anyone know a good additive to reduce brush strokes when painting my boat................cheers...mack

 

Once you rely on additives, you'll have no confidence unless you always have it when you paint. You need to try and understand the paint, improve your technique with practice, and consider the air temperature, the steel temperature and the viscosity of the paint. Apply the paint as quickly and as evenly as you can, then move on, Don't fiddle with paint to rid it of brush strokes.

 

Put on in the correct manner, on a well prepared and clean surface, the paint will do the work.

Edited April 30, 2014 by Higgs

[Phil Speight]

One of the skills of a coach painter is to know how to treat the paint on any given day. Brushing additives are nothing new-I was taught in a wagon works years ago and we used Boiled Linseed Oil when we felt the need. Owatrol is excellent , Craftmaster PPA also , but all the paint manufacturers have some sort of flow agent available. It isn`t cheating - only on the perfect day in the best of surroundings wil you achieve the perfect finish with paint straight out of the tin and even then it will vary between colours. It`s very important though that you do not use too much of any additive, it`s not there to make the work easy, just to improve the finish which depends on relatively long drying times. Use too much and a chimp could get a good finish for you, but it would be dead as a dodo in 18 months. The paint - not the chimp !

Dave ( aye up chuck ) is absolutely right about preparation and Purdy brushes. Finally don`t ask for "thinners" or refer to Owatrol and the like as such. Thinners they ain`t even though they make the paint apparently less viscose they are doing it in a more controlled and less harmful way.Some flash out again once the paint is on the way to being dry and some, like Owatrol contain oils and other agents to maintain the integrity of the paint. This is no help though if you use too much. 10% is a sensible maximum.

Edited April 30, 2014 by Phil Speight

[NB Lola]

I would add that a good painting course is worth it's weight in tins, or gold!

[mark99]

 

Don't fiddle with paint to rid it of brush strokes.

 

 

 

 

The worst paint for this is Hammerite.

 

If you overbrush it, it just goes into a series of blobs.

 

To be fair to Hammerite it does state on the tin not to overbrush.

Edited May 1, 2014 by mark99

[moondancer]

thanx folks for the good advice, will check out Owatrol and like everyone says preparation is everything.. and Kitman i'm using Rylands paint............mack

Edited May 2, 2014 by moondancer

[JV44]

Use lots of Owatrol at work as said it eases without taking the guts out of the paint like thinners do but more importantly keeps the open time on working the paint longer esp in warm conditions,Corona brushes are well worth a look there Moro range of black bristle make the lastest Hamiltons seem s$%t and the Silk range with the Chinex bristle are superb at moving oil paint around .

Most of the decorators I work with are binning there Purdy brushes in favour of the Coronas or brands like Picasso pro form Steve

[kitman]

One of the skills of a coach painter is to know how to treat the paint on any given day. Brushing additives are nothing new-I was taught in a wagon works years ago and we used Boiled Linseed Oil when we felt the need. Owatrol is excellent , Craftmaster PPA also , but all the paint manufacturers have some sort of flow agent available. It isn`t cheating - only on the perfect day in the best of surroundings wil you achieve the perfect finish with paint straight out of the tin and even then it will vary between colours. It`s very important though that you do not use too much of any additive, it`s not there to make the work easy, just to improve the finish which depends on relatively long drying times. Use too much and a chimp could get a good finish for you, but it would be dead as a dodo in 18 months. The paint - not the chimp !

Dave ( aye up chuck ) is absolutely right about preparation and Purdy brushes. Finally don`t ask for "thinners" or refer to Owatrol and the like as such. Thinners they ain`t even though they make the paint apparently less viscose they are doing it in a more controlled and less harmful way.Some flash out again once the paint is on the way to being dry and some, like Owatrol contain oils and other agents to maintain the integrity of the paint. This is no help though if you use too much. 10% is a sensible maximum.

^

What he said

 

Owatrol is a good all rounder as I've used it with Epiphanes, Craftmaster, Masons P-type and International paints, although it's good practice to use the paint manufacturers own brushing additive if they make one that works (I'm referring to International and Mason's here!).

 

Not sure if Rylard have they're own. Epiphanes and Craftmaster have brilliant ones. International and Mason's have a thinners or white spirit type brushing additive, which I guess would be absolutely useless on a hot day, and would actually decrease flow rate rather than increase it. I would say that their thinners are really best for spray application only.

 

However don't get too worried if your chosen paint manufacturer doesn't supply a useful product, I would say that in a DIY situation all the common 1k products used in boat painting are fully interchangeable. For example you can use Owatrol in International Toplac and you can paint that over Epiphanes multi marine primer if you wish. If sticking with a system is not a priority, you're at liberty to pick and choose.

 

Alternatively ring the companies technical department if you want their take on it.

 

Someone once told me that clean engines oil works as well??! Not tried that one yet, never will either!

[blackrose]

Surely 'elbow grease' would do nothing to lessen brush strokes, Owatrol helps, as do good quality brushes and experience in 'cutting in', but elbow grease is better used in posting unhelpful comments! LOL!

Unhelpful comments? Perhaps the other thing you could try is not taking things quite so seriously and learning to develop a sense of humor.

[Androo]

For example you can use Owatrol in International Toplac and you can paint that over Epiphanes multi marine primer if you wish. If sticking with a system is not a priority, you're at liberty to pick and choose.

 

 

 

Does one make of paint not cause a reaction if over painted with another make of paint?

 

The paint used on my boat is Masons and, I want to change to International.

 

Would this be a problem?

[Grace and Favour]

Does one make of paint not cause a reaction if over painted with another make of paint?

 

The paint used on my boat is Masons and, I want to change to International.

 

Would this be a problem?

It's not the brand of paint that is a concern, it's the type of paint . . . for example - you cannot use a cellulose paint on top of an enamel

[Traveller]

It's not the brand of paint that is a concern, it's the type of paint . . . for example - you cannot use a cellulose paint on top of an enamel

Or a two pack product on top of a single pack!

[kitman]

Does one make of paint not cause a reaction if over painted with another make of paint?

 

The paint used on my boat is Masons and, I want to change to International.

 

Would this be a problem?

 

International over Mason's will be fine, just stick to the respective company's recommended window/time frame for overcoating.

 

edit: as long as all the paint involved is single pack. (International make 2k as well)

Edited May 4, 2014 by kitman

[Higgs]

Rarely, If there was ever any issues with the paint, I didn't want to be arguing the toss with the paint agent. One of the reasons I never used additives.

 

My own boat is painted with Mason's and Epifanes.

[Androo]

 

International over Mason's will be fine, just stick to the respective company's recommended window/time frame for overcoating.

 

edit: as long as all the paint involved is single pack. (International make 2k as well)

Many thanks for that. My local chandlery told me that certain paints can have a reaction when mixed/overcoated.

[Androo]

 

International over Mason's will be fine, just stick to the respective company's recommended window/time frame for overcoating.

 

edit: as long as all the paint involved is single pack. (International make 2k as well)

Do you happen to know what is the equivalent of a Mason's (Atlantic Blue) in International ?

[kitman]

Do you happen to know what is the equivalent of a Mason's (Atlantic Blue) in International ?

 

From memory, Atlantic Blue is a kind of 'cobalt blue' colour. International may do a similar cobalt blue shade in there Toplac range.

 

What about using Mason's?

[Androo]

 

From memory, Atlantic Blue is a kind of 'cobalt blue' colour. International may do a similar cobalt blue shade in there Toplac range.

 

What about using Mason's?

I would carry on with Mason's, but, my nearest supplier is in Horwich, Bolton which, is quite a way. I have a chandler within walking distance which sells International at a competitive price and to be honest I have seen good results on boats nearby that have been painted with International.

 

Thank you for your input.