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Too much oil


Leo1973

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Just bought a boat with a BMC engine 1.5 which was rebuild about 3 months ago, know the person who rebuild it and was running great.

After rebuilding the engine travelled about 8 miles with too much oil in (about 5 litters too much) person was very drunk and add more oil… “Better be safe than sorry, was his words! “

The engineer took an extra 5 litters out of oil out and it still smoking, head has been taken away and check (some work done), new gasket set , got a thinker one. Exhaust has been check for oil (not cleaned).

Now thinking, it the glazing on the bores? Does anyone know of an additive I can add to clear them? I have diesel central heating so worried about adding stuff to the diesel as same tank.

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I wouldn't worry about the bores, you haven't done enough hours to cause trouble

 

I don't believe the BMC 1.5 is prone to glazing anyway

 

Richard

Edited by RLWP
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On the basis of just what you have told us I find the work you seem to have commissioned rather worrying - especially the thicker gasket bit. Compression on diesels is critical and you simply can not go fitting thicker head gaskets. In fact doing so may actually cause it to smoke because of partially burned fuel.

 

What colour smoke and when?. Hoe long ha sit run since the re-build? What other symptoms apart from excess oil were displayed? Was the oil checked for dilution from diesel?

 

Why should an engine run for 8 hours with too much oil glaze its bores, its not even run in yet so may stop some types of smoking on its own given time.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The water inlet from the canal that cools the engine seem to be getting blocked up all the time. Can some thing be add to the outside of the boat wihout taking it out of the water?

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The water inlet from the canal that cools the engine seem to be getting blocked up all the time. Can some thing be add to the outside of the boat wihout taking it out of the water?

 

You could attach a fine mesh filter - the problem being you would knock it off every time you entered a lock or came alongside, and, secondly you would still have to remove the filter regularly as it will block up just as easily as the 'inboard' one.

 

Move to cleaner waters

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No, unless you employ an underwater welder. If there is enough space you could get a skin tank of some sort welded on the INSIDE of the hull while afloat and one member here successfully fabricated a tank and then had it welded to the inside of the boat. A strainer on the outside of the hull such as many sea boats have is likely to block with plastic bags, leaves, etc.

 

Now you tell us that raw water is involved with the cooling so your grey-white smoke may be steam if the raw water is injected into the exhaust.

 

You need to be sure the raw water inlet really is becoming bocked and that some form of partial blockage in the exhaust is not causing back pressure that in turn reduces or stops the raw water pump delivery. Ignore this if your raw water exit is not via the exhaust.

 

As long as the rebuild was dome properly and included an overhaul of the injection equipment we have no reason to think an injector will be faulty.

 

The problem could be incorrect timing but if it starts easily from cold I rather doubt it. If it turns out to be that then all bets are off. It brings the quality of the rebuild into question.

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Hi no it does not start easey from cold needs lots of throttle, glow plugs (had news ones) and never first time only when hot.

 

Water and smoke comes out of the same hole.


Hi Just called ASAP they said add Seaflow Brass Round Intake Strainer Grate to outside of boat? Not sure about drilling hold in hull? or a water Water Intake Scoop ?

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Hi no it does not start easey from cold needs lots of throttle, glow plugs (had news ones) and never first time only when hot.

 

Water and smoke comes out of the same hole.

Hi Just called ASAP they said add Seaflow Brass Round Intake Strainer Grate to outside of boat? Not sure about drilling hold in hull? or a water Water Intake Scoop ?

 

I fear anything sheet like that is in the canal will block that strainer or a scoop. Bread bags, carrier bags, sycamore leaves, and so on. This is why the majority of modern canal boats have tank cooling.

 

As it is hard to start from cold you need to go through a diagnostic procedure starting with easy things and moving to harder things.

 

Check for the voltage at the glowplugs when WORKING.

 

Take the plugs out and test across a battery.

 

Check the line scribed on one corner of the injector pump mounting flange is aligned with the pointer on the adaptor plate that is screwed to the block.

 

If all that is OK you are into hassle because it could be timing but to check that you need a gauge and even then there is a very faint chance the valve timing is wrong and that will affect the injection timing.

 

Unless you have done so already it would also be a good idea to send the injectors to a specialist for testing and while they are out make sure all the holes have the inverted top hat heat shield in place plus the small atomisation washer.

 

You should also test the compression but you probably do not have the equipment for a diesel.

 

I think Richard (RLWP, Primrose Engineering) made a gauge so it may be time for you to see if he is in a position to help and to give you an idea about what he will charge. I also think that he has an injector test rig and could get a fair idea about the injectors without taking them away.

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I think Richard (RLWP, Primrose Engineering) made a gauge

 

Not yet he hasn't. Acquiring such a gauge is high on my list of desirable tools as I'm dealing with more BMCs

 

Richard

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A friend of mine recently overfilled his marinised Ford diesel with about 4 litres extra oil and it ran away uncontrollably because of the excess crankcase pressure causing the oil to get into the cylinders. It was almost wrecked. It's costing him about 1000 quid to get it repaired. I'm sure some engines are more prone to this than others but it sounds like the OP has probably been fortunate.

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A friend of mine recently overfilled his marinised Ford diesel with about 4 litres extra oil and it ran away uncontrollably because of the excess crankcase pressure causing the oil to get into the cylinders. It was almost wrecked. It's costing him about 1000 quid to get it repaired. I'm sure some engines are more prone to this than others but it sounds like the OP has probably been fortunate.

 

It does indeed.

 

Richard

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