deckhand Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 When our webasto is on, our step lights, outside stern light, bathroom shelf light all flicker. The main lights and lamps don't. Our boat builder does not seem to know why this happens. Can anyone make any suggestions as to why this may be? The lights do not flicker at any other time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albion Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 When our webasto is on, our step lights, outside stern light, bathroom shelf light all flicker. The main lights and lamps don't. Our boat builder does not seem to know why this happens. Can anyone make any suggestions as to why this may be? The lights do not flicker at any other time. The usual cause of inexplicable events like this in my experience in the automotive industry is a bad earth somewhere. I would start by checking any earths on the Webasto to be honest as that is the device that initiates the problem. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul's Nulife4-2 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 I'm guessing that it's just on starting up,,that's when the glow pin is drawing a lot of power,,,but it's just a guess.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deckhand Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hi Paul, As long as the webasto is on, the lights flicker. If I put it on, they don't flicker initially, then once it boosts up, they start and then continue. The webasto sort of slows down and flicker does too, then when webasto boosts up again, then so does the flickering. I will check the earths on webasto and see if this may be the issue, thanks Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cereal tiller Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 The usual cause of inexplicable events like this in my experience in the automotive industry is a bad earth somewhere. I would start by checking any earths on the Webasto to be honest as that is the device that initiates the problem. Roger Yes,sounds like a moody earth. CT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jodansgang Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Webasto units like to take their power direct from the battery. I suspect your unit is connected "switched" side of your battery isolator and or fuse board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Albion Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hi Paul, As long as the webasto is on, the lights flicker. If I put it on, they don't flicker initially, then once it boosts up, they start and then continue. The webasto sort of slows down and flicker does too, then when webasto boosts up again, then so does the flickering. I will check the earths on webasto and see if this may be the issue, thanks Roger Forgot to say that the simplest way of identifying a bad earth is by running a temporary substitute earth from a known good earth point. No need to remove/rectify the old earth until you have identified the duff one. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul's Nulife4-2 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 (edited) I have a Webesto,, & as with most 12v warm air/water heaters,there very fussy about voltage. Make sure youve got enough/plenty. After checking your Earth.. Or pump up the music,charge £5 on the door & chill. By the way,hi ya jodansgang,long time no see,will pm you soon. Edited February 16, 2014 by Paul's Nulife4-2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jodansgang Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 What Paul says. Ey up mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigcol Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Making sure the main power supply leads are direct to the battery From experience Don't like sharing cable or going through fuse or control panel box. Also from experience Col Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul's Nulife4-2 Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hi ya Deckhand. Is your lights still flickering ?. Do they still flicker when your eng is running or battery charger is on ?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deckhand Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hi ya Deckhand. Is your lights still flickering ?. Do they still flicker when your eng is running or battery charger is on ?. No flickering when engine on, we are on shoreline and no flicker. It only flickers when the webasto is whirring. No webasto on, no flickering. Lights are on now, no flickering as no webasto on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkmoth Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Making sure the main power supply leads are direct to the battery From experience Don't like sharing cable or going through fuse or control panel box. Also from experience Col I thought that direct to the battery was a no no for BSS. I've done this for my Hurricane, through a fuse of course. Having read somewhere that it all must go through the main isolator I was thinking that with BSS due soon I'd have to change it. Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 A couple of points, Webastos are not fussy about volts, they are designed to run down to about 10.8v and provided the connections are tight and bright and connected directly to the battery a Webasto with no other faults will, I always turn my voltage supply up to max and min threshold during the after service bench test and they always start, however the same can not always be said on the pre service bench run. Webastos do not "like" to be connected directly to the battery, it is essential that they are (or at a minimum to the permanent live side of the battery isolator switch)and it has nothing to do with power supply, it is so no daft bugger can remove the power supply with a switch whilst they are in full flight which can damage the heater and in extremis can lead to a fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jodansgang Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 A couple of points, Webastos are not fussy about volts, they are designed to run down to about 10.8v and provided the connections are tight and bright and connected directly to the battery a Webasto with no other faults will, I always turn my voltage supply up to max and min threshold during the after service bench test and they always start, however the same can not always be said on the pre service bench run. Webastos do not "like" to be connected directly to the battery, it is essential that they are (or at a minimum to the permanent live side of the battery isolator switch)and it has nothing to do with power supply, it is so no daft bugger can remove the power supply with a switch whilst they are in full flight which can damage the heater and in extremis can lead to a fire. Contrary to Webasto's own advice. Indeed the basic kit, new in box, is supplied with independent fuse terminal post and provision for direct to battery connection. Switching off or disconnecting the heater mid flow is definitely not recommended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Contrary to Webasto's own advice. Indeed the basic kit, new in box, is supplied with independent fuse terminal post and provision for direct to battery connection. Switching off or disconnecting the heater mid flow is definitely not recommended. It certainly is not contrary to Webastos own advice, all Webasto factory training dictates direct connection to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jodansgang Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 That's what I said, go direct to battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 That's what I said, go direct to battery. What you said was "Contrary to Webasto's own advice." it is not contrary to Webastos own advice, as I said above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jodansgang Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Have you read post 6? And then my subsequent posts? The contrary bit was aimed at your post (see quote) and the waffle you said about connecting to the permanent live side of the switch. Why advise termination onto the permanent live side of a switch if it is essential to terminate at the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) Ah, I see, what you meant was "That is contrary to Webastos own advice" again, it is not, it is preferable to connect direct to the battery but the permanent live side of the battery isolator switch is acceptable as it is A) permanently live and unlikely to have any voltage drop c) often puts the primary fuse in a better position. Edited February 17, 2014 by NMEA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jodansgang Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) So, to reiterate, connection direct to battery is preferable and indeed recommended, other options are feasible but you're always gonna be better off if you can get onto the battery terminal posts. Edited February 17, 2014 by jodansgang Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul's Nulife4-2 Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 (edited) And,I can honestly say that both my previous Eberspacher D4, & My current Webesto 5kw didnt & don't like operating at the lower voltages of around 11volts. But maybe I've just had two temperamental ones,in that respect,in a row. That's spooky !. After 6 years of trouble free,fault free & reliable service, my Webesto has just come up with a F8 fault. Oh no,,,I will have to get the book out. Edited February 17, 2014 by Paul's Nulife4-2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 F8 is fan motor issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul's Nulife4-2 Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 F8 is fan motor issue. Thanks for that, Oh dear,,that sounds expensive already,,I will have to strip it out I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NMEA Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Thanks for that, Oh dear,,that sounds expensive already,,I will have to strip it out I suppose. I assume this is an AT blown air heater in which case it is a strip out job, also it is very important to set up the burn rate properly if you do have to replace it, for that you will need a flue gas anyliser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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