fudd Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 (edited) Evening all. Any advice on how to fit a boiler to a new squirrel would be lovely. ie. what not to do etc. How do you bolt them down? Steve P. Edited September 13, 2013 by fudd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nbfiresprite Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 The boiler is held in place by two large nuts on the inlet and outlet pipes, which clamp the boiler to the back of the stove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fudd Posted September 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 The boiler is held in place by two large nuts on the inlet and outlet pipes, which clamp the boiler to the back of the stove.The stove is not drilled to take the boiler. I just wasn't sure if it mattered if the boiler sat on the bottom of the grate or if it needs to be suspended as such. Thanks. Would it be ok to use heatproof silicone rather than fire cement to seal it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted September 13, 2013 Report Share Posted September 13, 2013 Why do you want to boil squirrels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendo Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 You got to drill the holes out with a hole saw. Gutted when I found that out. They do one with the holes already drilled. But alas, I didn't find that out until I'd parted with my cash. The boiler slots in on top of the grate. No need (or room) for the rear fire brick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fudd Posted September 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 You got to drill the holes out with a hole saw. Gutted when I found that out. They do one with the holes already drilled. But alas, I didn't find that out until I'd parted with my cash. The boiler slots in on top of the grate. No need (or room) for the rear fire brick. Seems like I did the same then. What did you seal it with? Thanks Why do you want to boil squirrels? I suppose I did ask for that! I'm going to get the flue today. What is the best size. I've seen one with an adaptor to take it down to 4". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arpeeuk Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 Had a new one fitted for me yesterday. Assuming you have a new squirrel with the heat shield on the back you need to Remove the heat shield - this is not required with a back boiler Locate the dimples on back of stove that mark position for the boiler pipes Remove back firebrick and baffle plate -these are not required with a back boiler Drill holes with a hole saw Fit boiler ( found this was easiest by removing top from stove first) Seal around pipes - my installer used something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/VITCAS-Black-Fire-Cement-1250/dp/B004646CLM Tighten nuts Hope this helps Rik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEngo Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 A new, boiler fitted,Squirrel comes without any sealant at all round the holes- there should be a large washer under each of the boiler pipe securing nuts. The boiler sits about 1/4 -3/8 inches above the grate support plate and back against the back plate of the stove. Installing the boiler is easy if you take the top off, (4 bolts, replace them with hex socket capscrews in stainless so you can get it apart again) but otherwise requires the ability to solve Rubik's cube in under 3 minutes, whilst simultaneously doing origami. N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fudd Posted September 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 (edited) Done it. Thanks to you all. Trial run to see if it working ok before I make the hearth. Edited September 15, 2013 by fudd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisjh Posted September 14, 2013 Report Share Posted September 14, 2013 Hi all, Just seen these posts. Has anyone got a good supplier of back boilers? Cheapest I have seen is for 199.something. In a panic to get one and fit it before the winter sets in for another 6 months Cheers Jools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEngo Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Harworth Heating. Oilstoves.co.uk I think. They do web mail order. Usual disclaimer. N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fudd Posted September 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fudd Posted September 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 Got the rads in. Can't believe how well it all works. Boxed in the pipes. I think it's neater, not very boaty though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canals are us? Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 How many rads are you heating, all around the size as the picture? How hot does it get them? Do you heat your calorifier too? I heat 2 rads with mine or a 55 litre calorifier. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fudd Posted September 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 We have 2 300x800 single rads and one 600x450 double. On wood it gets roasting within half an hour. I can't believe how well it works. I took Mike's (Black Rose) advice in using all four tappings on the rads and it works unbelievably well. The stove uses a bit more fuel but then it would, it's heating the whole boat now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kendo Posted September 27, 2013 Report Share Posted September 27, 2013 (edited) Got the rads in. Can't believe how well it all works. Boxed in the pipes. I think it's neater, not very boaty thoughThat looks neat. Our pipes are exposed and heat the whole length of the boat. We like them like that though.I can't help but feel you will be wasting some heat by boxing them away? But I hope you have a cosy winter. Edit: remove superfluous picture redisplay. Edited September 27, 2013 by kendo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fudd Posted September 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 (edited) The pipes are behind the panelling and in front of the insulated lining of the boat. The panelling will get warm in front of the pipes but it will only serve to help direct the heat to where I want it. ie. where I placed the rads. I don't think I will be losing any heat at all really. As I said, its not 'boaty' but neither is central heating. It's neat and tidy though, and it works. I didn't do the calorifier in the end. To much upheaval and we have three options of hot water anyway. Edited September 28, 2013 by fudd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canals are us? Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 We have 2 300x800 single rads and one 600x450 double. On wood it gets roasting within half an hour. I can't believe how well it works. I took Mike's (Black Rose) advice in using all four tappings on the rads and it works unbelievably well. The stove uses a bit more fuel but then it would, it's heating the whole boat now. Around 6,000btu then. You could add another small rad if needed You can't beat a gravity heating system. I pump the circuit to the calorifier under the bed when I want hot water and switch the rads off. James . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattlad Posted September 28, 2013 Report Share Posted September 28, 2013 Why do you want to boil squirrels? If you get an Ecofan you'll be able to slice them after you've boiled them! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
citywidegas Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Hi all, I just read all discussion and look at the image at their boiler fit but I think it would be much better if there some more space between boiler and floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisjh Posted November 14, 2013 Report Share Posted November 14, 2013 Help needed.. Struggling to remove my back boiler from morso squirrel. Any tips? Is it not really tricky taking to top off? What happens to the chimney if you do that? Sorry bit of a novice in this regard. Thanks in advance Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEngo Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Help needed.. Struggling to remove my back boiler from morso squirrel. Any tips? Is it not really tricky taking to top off? What happens to the chimney if you do that? Sorry bit of a novice in this regard. Thanks in advance Chris Top comes off with 4 bolts, but you have to remove the flue first. You will probably have to grind the bolt heads off. The flue will probably go straight up if you clean out the gaps next to the top and bottom collars. If that's too much then remove the door, the stove firebricks, the riddling grate and its supports then the big flat plate that supports the grate support. The boiler will then come out of the door hole. As I have said before, it helps if you can solve Rubiks cube in under 3 minutes whilst simultaneously doing origami. N Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisjh Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Thanks for the tips, will try the origami approach but must admit I am feeling scared. One of the pipes from the boiler has sheered off. Do you think I could get this repaired safely? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kae Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Thanks for the tips, will try the origami approach but must admit I am feeling scared. One of the pipes from the boiler has sheered off. Do you think I could get this repaired safely? Chris The water-carrying pipe has sheered off? That's bad news! I wouldn't bother trying to get it repaired. If it's failed that spectacularly, it's time for a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisjh Posted November 16, 2013 Report Share Posted November 16, 2013 Top comes off with 4 bolts, but you have to remove the flue first. You will probably have to grind the bolt heads off. The flue will probably go straight up if you clean out the gaps next to the top and bottom collars. If that's too much then remove the door, the stove firebricks, the riddling grate and its supports then the big flat plate that supports the grate support. The boiler will then come out of the door hole. As I have said before, it helps if you can solve Rubiks cube in under 3 minutes whilst simultaneously doing origami. N So I have managed to take out fire bricks - in pieces - riddling grate and supports but can't move the flat plate that supports the grate support. Is this bolted in or does it just lift out and will it come out through the front door? Cheers Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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