Engine issues

[andrea_mcguinn]

Hi all,

I would be grateful for any help. We're nearly at the end of our tether.

 

We have a seawold petrol inboard, we went to take her out on Saturday and she was turning over but not starting. A fellow moorer came over had a quick look and said it seems like the points are out ! Then on Sunday we thought we would try our luck and she started 1st time, after leaving her to run and heat up for about 20mins we decided to take her out for a quick run. Everything seemed fine for the first 10mins then we got in the river and it seemed like she was missing a beat.so put some more revs on and the vibrations was ridiculous we had to shout over it.

After that we decided to turn back not to push our luck any further, got back to the marina got to our mooring and before we had chance to jump off and tie up she died ! No matter how much I tried no life nothing. So we're floating around the marina thinking of ways to get back into our mooring, after a few minutes drifting and a good push we got back in. Checked the engine and it looked fine, all wires still intact everything look normal, so couldn't find any answer and decided to call it a day before we pulled our hair out.

So here we are 2 days later still can't think why, so please any help or advice would be great.

 

Andrea

[Chris Pink]

Sounds electrical. Sounds like a connection in the ignition circuit but could also be a component.

 

I don't enough about this engine but from general experience your symptoms are electrical.

 

In petrol engines such diagnosis starts with examination of the spark.

[bizzard]

Hi all,

I would be grateful for any help. We're nearly at the end of our tether.

 

We have a seawold petrol inboard, we went to take her out on Saturday and she was turning over but not starting. A fellow moorer came over had a quick look and said it seems like the points are out ! Then on Sunday we thought we would try our luck and she started 1st time, after leaving her to run and heat up for about 20mins we decided to take her out for a quick run. Everything seemed fine for the first 10mins then we got in the river and it seemed like she was missing a beat.so put some more revs on and the vibrations was ridiculous we had to shout over it.

After that we decided to turn back not to push our luck any further, got back to the marina got to our mooring and before we had chance to jump off and tie up she died ! No matter how much I tried no life nothing. So we're floating around the marina thinking of ways to get back into our mooring, after a few minutes drifting and a good push we got back in. Checked the engine and it looked fine, all wires still intact everything look normal, so couldn't find any answer and decided to call it a day before we pulled our hair out.

So here we are 2 days later still can't think why, so please any help or advice would be great.

 

Andrea

What petrol engine is a ''Seaworld'' based on ?. Removing and inspecting the spark plugs can usually give a good indication towards the trouble of ignition or fuel trouble.

[The Bagdad Boatman (waits)]

Or petrol starvation. Remove the plug and smell it if wet from petrol then electric problem else petrol blockage bit of dirt or water in carburetor

[andyb116]

have this problem a lot with classic & vintage cars we look after. If it starts ok when left to go cold, probably the condensor. If you can get a replacement try & find new old stock, as we've had had loads of failures with new ones. ( all Chinese copy's no matter what box it comes in)

[bizzard]

If this is an early Watamota Seawolf engine based on the old Ford 105e engine it could well be the condenser or ignition coil going down as it heats up. Condenser trouble will also burn the contact breaker points to a point when they will not work any more. Has the contact gap closed up due to a worn down heel ? ie no grease on the distributors cam ?

The old Lucas part number for these contact point sets was 423153. The Lucas condenser part number I can't remember.

If based on a later Ford engine like the cross-flow it could have Autolite ignition distributor, these were more troublesome with burning out contacts and faulty condensors. than the old Lucas ones.

Also check inside the distributor cap for HT tracking, centre carbon brush wear and rotor arm for HT tracking to earth to the ''The cam spindle''.

[peterboat]

Hi everything they say is correct! Get yourself a good mechanic then if it is point related and the engine is car related by an electronic ignition system we convert old cars all the time it is like light and day the difference in reliability, performance and economy. we just did a 64 S type jag today and what a difference points and condensors work of the devil!!!

 

Peter

[andrea_mcguinn]

Thanks for all the info will have a look and give your ideas a try.

 

Sorry about typing error the engine is a seawolf petrol, apparently a waterised Ford cortina engine if this helps.

Would the issues mentioned be a contribution to the vibrations we've been experiencing ?

 

Regards

Andrea

 

Right so things to check.

Points.

Plugs.

Condenser.

And a good service won't do any harm either.

Many thanks to everyone

Edited June 11, 2013 by andrea_mcguinn

[bizzard]

Thanks for all the info will have a look and give your ideas a try.

 

Sorry about typing error the engine is a seawolf petrol, apparently a waterised Ford cortina engine if this helps.

Would the issues mentioned be a contribution to the vibrations we've been experiencing ?

 

Regards

Andrea

Right brilliant so things to check.

Points.

Plugs.

Condenser.

And a good service won't do any harm either.

Many thanks to everyone

If a MK1 Cortina it would be 1200 or 1500cc engine If it was missfiring yes it would be vibrating.

[Chris Pink]

Right so things to check.

Points.

Plugs.

Condenser.

And a good service won't do any harm either.

Many thanks to everyone

Forget all of that. Raise your eyes slightly to peterboat's post. Then look for a source of electronic ignition. It is the only way of keeping a 1970s petrol engine going reliably in the damp apart from having a resident Engineer.

 

As he says points and distributors are truly the work of the devil.

 

They work when everything is new, when they're old the designers no longer care.

[Guest]

Hi everything they say is correct! Get yourself a good mechanic then if it is point related and the engine is car related by an electronic ignition system we convert old cars all the time it is like light and day the difference in reliability, performance and economy. we just did a 64 S type jag today and what a difference points and condensors work of the devil!!!

 

Peter

 

Did this with both my Mini's in the late 70's 80's and agree.

 

Other possible cause of the Op's probs could be an HT lead breaking down, most likely the main one from the coil to the distributor.

[nb Innisfree]

A fault often missed Is worn distributor bearings resulting in an erratic points gap. Remove distributor cap and rotor arm then try to move points cam laterally, any movement means worn bearings.

 

Long ago a colleague of mine tried several garages over several frustrating months to sort out erratic starting and running on his Vauxhall Viva, all missed this fault. I spotted it in 5mins flat. He was dead chuffed when I fitted a distributor from the breakers. Amazing that several professional mechanics failed to spot it.

 

At times I can be a real hero.

[Cheshire cat]

You don't have to make do with Chinese parts if you no where to look.

 

I can vouch for their parts and service

 

http://www.distributordoctor.com/