Which grade oil should I use

[kienik]

Evening all.

 

I've decided it's time to do an oil change on my bmc 1.5, I've wanted to do it for ages but everytime I plan to visit the boat I try to remind myself to note the oil filter number so I can get a replacement before I do an oil change but forget to check the number when I get their and only realise when I'm back home.

 

Anyways, I'm going to the boat tomorrow and will get the number from the filter, that aside own anyone help me out with deciding what grade oil I should by to put in the engine once I've pumped the old stuff out and also approx how much should I put in?

 

Also if anyone has any general hints and tips for. Carrying out an oil change I'd much appreciate your comments

 

Nik

[Wanted]

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/motoring-workshop-tools/car-care-oils/engine_oil___mineral/Carlube-Daytona-20W50-Motor-Oil-9217985?skuId=9227684

 

As was advised by Alan Fincher. Works for me.

 

Alans words of wisdom so as and when someone disagrees... ( )

 

Ideally you want it to say something like API-CC. In practice it mat well say API-CC/SF or API-SF/CC, but you can ignore tje 'S' one, as that relates to petrol ('S'park) ignition, and you are intrested in Diesel ('C'ompression engines).

Edited February 3, 2013 by Wanted

[Allan(nb Albert)]

http://www.diy.com/nav/build/motoring-workshop-tools/car-care-oils/engine_oil___mineral/Carlube-Daytona-20W50-Motor-Oil-9217985?skuId=9227684

 

As was advised by Alan Fincher. Works for me.

 

Alans words of wisdom so as and when someone disagrees... ( )

 

Ideally you want it to say something like API-CC. In practice it mat well say API-CC/SF or API-SF/CC, but you can ignore tje 'S' one, as that relates to petrol ('S'park) ignition, and you are intrested in Diesel ('C'ompression engines).

 

Yes, API-CC 20W50 is the thing to look for. The BMC 1.5 and 1.8 engines were developed before multigrade oils became commonplace but my Thorneycroft 108 (BMC 1.8) handbook suggests a 20W50 API-CC multigrade or various non multigrade oils for winter/summer use.

 

One point to consider, however is engine temperature. BMC engines can be fitted with various thermostats, the most common being 74 degree and 82 degree. If you have a 74 stat and the cooling keeps the temperature down then you might be better off with a 15W40 API-CC oil.

 

My handbook says that the normal operating temperature of my 1.8 (with an 82 stat) is 90 degrees which is much hotter than more modern engines. The advantage is more hot water for longer!

 

It is very easy to fall into the trap of paying more for oil than you need to. The important thing is to have the correct oil for the engine and its operating conditions.

 

Just waiting for Tony Banks to blow me and wanted out of the water

[David Schweizer]

There are two schools of thought, one recommends SAE 20W/50, the other favours straight SAE30. What both agree upon is that it should be API SF/CC. I have used SAE 30 for years but will be trying SAE 20W/50 with the next oil change which some people have suggested produces less smoke from the BMC 1.5

 

I am not sure that Alan has actually ever recommended Daytona, I seem to recall that he uses Morris Golden Film Oil (formerly branded Classic)

Edited February 3, 2013 by David Schweizer

[Bobbybass]

Evening all.

 

I've decided it's time to do an oil change on my bmc 1.5, I've wanted to do it for ages but everytime I plan to visit the boat I try to remind myself to note the oil filter number so I can get a replacement before I do an oil change but forget to check the number when I get their and only realise when I'm back home.

 

Anyways, I'm going to the boat tomorrow and will get the number from the filter, that aside own anyone help me out with deciding what grade oil I should by to put in the engine once I've pumped the old stuff out and also approx how much should I put in?

 

Also if anyone has any general hints and tips for. Carrying out an oil change I'd much appreciate your comments

 

Nik

 

Sorry...not hints to change oil....BUT :

 

On my mobile phone....I 'add a contact'....then under 'A' I have the air filter number.

Under 'F' I have the fuel filter numbers..

Under 'O' I have the oil filter numbers..

Under 'E' I have the engine number...

Under 'B' I have the alternator belt and Travelpower belt

Under 'G' for gearbox number.

Under 'D' for drive plate numbers..etc etc

 

Whenever I discover a new number..it goes in my phone..

 

Thus I always have them to hand should I suddenly need them....especially the engine number when I am away from the boat...

 

Saves remembering to write them down and carry them.

 

Can I have a greenie please...?....

 

Bob

Edited February 3, 2013 by Bobbybass

[churchward]

Evening all.

 

I've decided it's time to do an oil change on my bmc 1.5, I've wanted to do it for ages but everytime I plan to visit the boat I try to remind myself to note the oil filter number so I can get a replacement before I do an oil change but forget to check the number when I get their and only realise when I'm back home.

 

Anyways, I'm going to the boat tomorrow and will get the number from the filter, that aside own anyone help me out with deciding what grade oil I should by to put in the engine once I've pumped the old stuff out and also approx how much should I put in?

 

Also if anyone has any general hints and tips for. Carrying out an oil change I'd much appreciate your comments

 

Nik

A multigrage of 20W50 is in my opinion better than single however an SAE30 is OK and is in fact a compromise viscosity between the multigrade. The multigrade will help starting from cold in the winter.

 

As other have said API CC is likely to be the safe bet but if you can't get that spec then a 20W50 of API CD or even CF will not be a problem particularly if only used as a one-off. Do not be tempted to buy oil that does not have any API spec printed on the container. The other element in choosing an oil is make sure it is a mineral based oil not semi or fully synthetic.

 

The good news is that often that adds up to the oil you buy being among the cheapest available. A very good oil brand to go for is Morris Oils Golden film 20W 50

Edited February 4, 2013 by churchward

[Bobbybass]

A multigrage of 20W50 is in my opinion better than single however an SAE30 is OK and is in fact a compromise viscosity between the multigrade. The multigrade will help starting from cold in the winter.

 

As other have said API CC is likely to be the safe bet but if you can't get that spec then a 20W50 of API CD or even CF will not be a problem particularly if only used as a one-off. Do not be tempted to buy oil that does not have any API spec printed on the container. The other element in choosing an oil is make sure it is a mineral based oil not semi or fully synthetic.

 

The good news that often that adds up to the oil you buy being among the cheapest available. A very good oil brand to go for is Morris Oils Golden film 20W 50

I buy one from Wilkinsons that has all the things..'of which you speak'.

Its about £12 for 5 litres...

My engine is on 8000 hours...and sounds as good as new...with good oil pressure.

[Wanted]

There are two schools of thought, one recommends SAE 20W/50, the other favours straight SAE30. What both agree upon is that it should be API SF/CC. I have used SAE 30 for years but will be trying SAE 20W/50 with the next oil change which some people have suggested produces less smoke from the BMC 1.5

 

I am not sure that Alan has actually ever recommended Daytona, I seem to recall that he uses Morris Golden Film Oil (formerly branded Classic)

 

Sorry, should have said that it was a recommendation using Facebook and not here. I believe that Halfrauds Vintage brand will also be OK having since researched.

[kienik]

Many thanks for all of the replies, I shall be off out today trying to find the best product for the best price,

 

Just got to try and remember to check the number on the filter now, do t suppose they would all be the same would they????

 

Once again thanks to everyone for assisting me

[alan_fincher]

I am not sure that Alan has actually ever recommended Daytona, I seem to recall that he uses Morris Golden Film Oil (formerly branded Classic)

To be completely fair, Rob was stuck for some oil at short notice, and limited to outlets he could easily get to near Brentford, such as Halfords and the like.

 

This was a good option in terms of being the right spec, versus some other things that were less suitable - it is fine, I'm sure.

 

I don't think there is a right answer as to whether the cheaper brands are OK, or whether it is worth the extra cost of things like Morris, which probably costs twice as much, at least, typically, unless you really buy in bulk quantities. (Yes, I know deals can sometimes be had by travelling to an agricultural supplier, but that wasn't an option for Rob at the time!).

 

At the moment I do shell out for Morris oils on both boats, but as the HA3 in Sickle needs about 13 litres at each oil change, I can't say I'm not tempted to use cheaper.

[David Schweizer]

I used to purchase my oil direct from Morris's, but they have got a bit pricey in recent years. I now use these people http://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Product-125/Products-by-Application/Engine-Oils/20W50-Multigrades/Morris-Golden-Film-20W50 who are the cheapest I have found, the best option is the 25 litre drumwhich works out at £13.39 for five litres (or £15.35 delivered) but you will need some cans to dispense it, which should be no problem if you have kept some old ones

 

Given the amount of oil you use Alan, it would probably be worth a visit to collect., but their delivery service is also very prompt.

Edited February 4, 2013 by David Schweizer

[Bob Blues]

When I had the Oil changed in my Volvo (estate) they told me they would use a long life Oil which had a life of 180000 miles.

 

I think it was about £5 a ltr, Is this suitable for Marine engines (BMC and Isuzu And most modern engines).

 

Bob

[churchward]

When I had the Oil changed in my Volvo (estate) they told me they would use a long life Oil which had a life of 180000 miles.

 

I think it was about £5 a ltr, Is this suitable for Marine engines (BMC and Isuzu And most modern engines).

 

Bob

18,000 maybe but 180,000 no.

 

The modern long life oils are all synthetic oils and not suitable for a the BMC or any of the types generally fitted to narrowboats. It fails on all counts, viscosity, API (far too high an additive content) and synthetic are all unsuitable.

[gazza]

Long life oil is false economy in cars, madness in boats.

 

In modern cars minimum of 10000 mile or annual change.

 

In boats, minimum annual change, better is one at start of season, one at end of season.

 

I use coma classic 20/50, but any oil to api cc spec will be fine.

[Bob Blues]

18,000 maybe but 180,000 no.

 

The modern long life oils are all synthetic oils and not suitable for a the BMC or any of the types generally fitted to narrowboats. It fails on all counts, viscosity, API (far too high an additive content) and synthetic are all unsuitable.

 

Ooops Yes 18,000

[Wanted]

To be completely fair, Rob was stuck for some oil at short notice, and limited to outlets he could easily get to near Brentford, such as Halfords and the like.

 

This was a good option in terms of being the right spec, versus some other things that were less suitable - it is fine, I'm sure.

 

I don't think there is a right answer as to whether the cheaper brands are OK, or whether it is worth the extra cost of things like Morris, which probably costs twice as much, at least, typically, unless you really buy in bulk quantities. (Yes, I know deals can sometimes be had by travelling to an agricultural supplier, but that wasn't an option for Rob at the time!).

 

At the moment I do shell out for Morris oils on both boats, but as the HA3 in Sickle needs about 13 litres at each oil change, I can't say I'm not tempted to use cheaper.

And much appreciated it was too!

[kienik]

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/d2e1277283f60750d57e3ed3a29a3098_zps136ee2fe.jpg

 

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/c52409f8b5847e05ebbdb53b9bb41703_zps82e45d21.jpg

 

Hope this link works to the photo I took of my oil filter,

 

Basically just wondering what the hell it is, no numbers on it or even a brand name.

 

Anyone shed any light on what it is, I thought it is the oil filter but not sure now, could it be a housing for the filter?

Edited February 6, 2013 by kienik

[ditchcrawler]

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/d2e1277283f60750d57e3ed3a29a3098_zps136ee2fe.jpg

 

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/c52409f8b5847e05ebbdb53b9bb41703_zps82e45d21.jpg

 

Hope this link works to the photo I took of my oil filter,

 

Basically just wondering what the hell it is, no numbers on it or even a brand name.

 

Anyone shed any light on what it is, I thought it is the oil filter but not sure now, could it be a housing for the filter?

Looks like one of these http://www.asap-supplies.com/search/bmc+oil+filter/oil-filter-element-bmc-1500-thornycroft-90-131060

[churchward]

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/d2e1277283f60750d57e3ed3a29a3098_zps136ee2fe.jpg

 

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/c52409f8b5847e05ebbdb53b9bb41703_zps82e45d21.jpg

 

Hope this link works to the photo I took of my oil filter,

 

Basically just wondering what the hell it is, no numbers on it or even a brand name.

 

Anyone shed any light on what it is, I thought it is the oil filter but not sure now, could it be a housing for the filter?

It looks like the old Purolater style canister oil filters. They were very common fittings to 1960's 70's Morris or Austin engines such as the A and B series engines. You can get mods to convert to spin-on cartridges which generally have a better filter action.

 

But a direct replacement should be one of these.

 

http://inlinefilters.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=935_936_937&products_id=13506

Edited February 7, 2013 by churchward

[bag 'o' bones]

Something an old boy once told me: 'no engine is damaged by too many oil changes'

Regardless of how many miles or hours an oil is reputed to last; a 15 quid oil change is peanuts compared with the 5k or so to replace the engine.

 

Just a thought

[gazza]

To true, oil is much easier to change than cranks and pistons was my dads favorite.

 

Oil is also much cheaper than engine bits!

I used to change duckhams q every 3k in my old warmed over pinto engined Capri. No cam probs for me!

[churchward]

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/d2e1277283f60750d57e3ed3a29a3098_zps136ee2fe.jpg

 

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k143/kienik/c52409f8b5847e05ebbdb53b9bb41703_zps82e45d21.jpg

 

Hope this link works to the photo I took of my oil filter,

 

Basically just wondering what the hell it is, no numbers on it or even a brand name.

 

Anyone shed any light on what it is, I thought it is the oil filter but not sure now, could it be a housing for the filter?

In order to change the filter you need to do the following

 

The housing you have shown in your pics has the filter cartridge inside it. You will need to unscrew the bolt at the bottom of the canister. the filter may have parts inside it you need to retain like a disc and spring (some don't) so take care you don't throw these parts away or lose them.

 

There will also be a rubber seal in the filter head where the canister (the filter cartridge fits inside) fits up to the head. There should be a new one with the new filter. You may need to pick the old one out with a needle or similar. Make sure you get any goo out of the filter canister so it is clean when you put it back. There may also be a seal behind the washer above the bolt head. This may need replacing too.

[kienik]

In order to change the filter you need to do the following

 

The housing you have shown in your pics has the filter cartridge inside it. You will need to unscrew the bolt at the bottom of the canister. the filter may have parts inside it you need to retain like a disc and spring (some don't) so take care you don't throw these parts away or lose them.

 

There will also be a rubber seal in the filter head where the canister (the filter cartridge fits inside) fits up to the head. There should be a new one with the new filter. You may need to pick the old one out with a needle or similar. Make sure you get any goo out of the filter canister so it is clean when you put it back. There may also be a seal behind the washer above the bolt head. This may need replacing too.

 

 

Thanks for the useful tips, and also thanks to others for the links to the parts I need to purchase.

 

Ill give it a go when I visit the boat on Monday of next week.

 

This forum is a fab place to get all my questions answered,

 

Many thanks again

 

Nik

[churchward]

Thanks for the useful tips, and also thanks to others for the links to the parts I need to purchase.

 

Ill give it a go when I visit the boat on Monday of next week.

 

This forum is a fab place to get all my questions answered,

 

Many thanks again

 

Nik

One last thing to note is do not over tighten the centre bolt when you put it back. If you do it will damage the rubber seal you will replace in the filter head. So just tighten a little over finger tight enough to just pinch the rubber seal a little. Then run the engine and see if you have any leaks and you can always tighten a little if needed but if you go to mad there will come a point where any leak gets worse if you over tighten.

[David Schweizer]

In order to change the filter you need to do the following

 

The housing you have shown in your pics has the filter cartridge inside it. You will need to unscrew the bolt at the bottom of the canister. the filter may have parts inside it you need to retain like a disc and spring (some don't) so take care you don't throw these parts away or lose them.

 

There will also be a rubber seal in the filter head where the canister (the filter cartridge fits inside) fits up to the head. There should be a new one with the new filter. You may need to pick the old one out with a needle or similar. Make sure you get any goo out of the filter canister so it is clean when you put it back. There may also be a seal behind the washer above the bolt head. This may need replacing too.

Removing the old canister type filter is a bit of a fiddle, I was shown another method by someone who services hire boats, which I find much easier.

 

Instead of removing the bottom bolt and then having to fiddle around removing the full canister without spilling oil into the bilges, (not to mention trying to remove and replace the old rubber seal), remove the two bolts that hold the filter head to the cylinder block, remove from the engine and dismantle the whole wunit in a metal tray on the bank. This method is far less messy and it is much easier to get a good fit on the rubber seal. Just make sure that you do not loose the crancase gasket (it usually remains stuck on the block)

Edited February 8, 2013 by David Schweizer