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Anyone used a Servis Compact or Eumenia washing machine?


BlueStringPudding

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I have recently acquired a Servis Compact washng machine. The shell and item number matches what is now known as Eumenia's Compact 350-01 washing machine. And there seems to be a few yachts and caravans out there using those. They also make the Euronova and Babynova washing machines. I was wondering whether anyone on the forum has experience of any of these? Preferably of mine! :D

 

I'm keen to invest in the least expensive inverter I can get away with to power it. I won't ever be running any other 240v appliances at the same time as using it. I intend to attach the cold fill inlet to a hot fill from my calorifier. And I will be running the machine only when my engine is running.

 

If I can get away with a modified sine wave inverter, then great. If not, I'll invest in pure sine. It looks fairly mechanical in terms of operation (dials and clicky buttons as opposed to any electronic display but that might be meaningless in terms of the internal workings!)

 

I have yet to find a manual for it.

 

Link to photo (near bottom of eBay page)

 

Here's a photo of the tech details on the back... (I understand what some of it means!) :rolleyes:

 

Tech spec label photo

 

It draws a maximum of 2100w it says. However ought I assume it will draw more than that on start up? Or perhaps if I am filling it with hot water and it doesn't need to use the heater, maybe it will draw less? How best do I judge what sort of inverter I need to buy to power this? Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

:)

Edited by BlueStringPudding
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I have recently acquired a Servis Compact washng machine. The shell and item number matches what is now known as Eumenia's Compact 350-01 washing machine. And there seems to be a few yachts and caravans out there using those. They also make the Euronova and Babynova washing machines. I was wondering whether anyone on the forum has experience of any of these? Preferably of mine! :D

 

I'm keen to invest in the least expensive inverter I can get away with to power it. I won't ever be running any other 240v appliances at the same time as using it. I intend to attach the cold fill inlet to a hot fill from my calorifier. And I will be running ithe machine only when my engine is running.

 

If I can get away with a modified sine wave inverter, then great. If not, I'll invest in pure sine. It looks fairly mechanical in terms of operation (dials and clicky buttons as opposed to any electronic display but that might be meaningless in terms of the internal workings!)

 

I have yet to find a manual for it.

 

Link to photo (near bottom of eBay page)

 

Here's a photo of the tech details on the back... (I understand what some of it means!) :rolleyes:

 

Tech spec label photo

 

It draws a maximum of 2100w it says. However ought I assume it will draw more than that on start up? Or perhaps if I am filling it with hot water and it doesn't need to use the heater, maybe it will draw less? How best do I judge what sort of inverter I need to buy to power this? Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Thanks

:)

With its water heating element out of use i'd say that a 1000w inverter would power it,but depending on how high tech it is Not being an expurt on such modern appliances i wouldn't like to say whether it would run on any other but a pure sine wave inverter. Being as the electricity would only be used to whirl the washing drum back and forth and perhaps spin it,you could drill a big hole in the back of it,inline with the drums spindle,insert an old cars starting handle or even your lock windlass and agitate the thing back and forth by hand. To spin it up by hand into the bone dry ready to wear mode will take a bit more energy. Hope this helps BSP. :closedeyes:

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I used a Eumenia for 12 years without problem but never on an inverter. Filling it with warm water won't guarantee the heater doesn't come on at some time so you need to allow for the full current drain.

 

You will need a pure sine wave inverter of around 2500 watts.

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I think my concern would be the other way round - filling it with water from your calorifier which is probably heated by an engine running at 80 degrees means that you'll probably be filling the machine with far hotter water than it needs for the wash and has no way pf cooling. And as you'll be running your engine to charge your batteries whilst using the inverter you'll be keeping the water temperature up at the higher level.

 

I'd suggest that if you plan to use hot water as the supply the you might want to connect it through a thermostatically controled mixer (with a cold feed) and turn the thermostat down to the temperture level that the washing machine is trying to attain.

 

I'm not qualified to make these statements, it just seems logical!

 

We have a 1300 watt washing machine on our boat and were advised to have a 2kw Inverter. We were also advised not to use the washing machine until after lunch so that the batteries had been recharged from the previous night's usage before they were hammered by the inverter.

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My Servis (not compact) will not enter a fast spin whilst on modified sinewave....ever.

I can do a wash, but it takes several hours, even whilst cruising, and topping up the wash with water from the kettle.

However, I find a launderette far less hassle.

 

Once on a landline however, and Bobs yer Uncle (probably a crim like yer Dad) :lol:

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It is near impossible to use this machine without the heater cutting in, all washes below 60o will fill with cold water and heat to the required programe temp with the heater.

 

But if it's not plumbed into the cold water how can it fill with cold water? I can see that the water might be too hot, but I don't understand how it could be too cold...? :unsure:

 

 

I'd suggest that if you plan to use hot water as the supply the you might want to connect it through a thermostatically controled mixer (with a cold feed) and turn the thermostat down to the temperture level that the washing machine is trying to attain.

 

I'm not qualified to make these statements, it just seems logical!

 

We have a 1300 watt washing machine on our boat and were advised to have a 2kw Inverter. We were also advised not to use the washing machine until after lunch so that the batteries had been recharged from the previous night's usage before they were hammered by the inverter.

 

Thanks, Ray. So tell me about thermostatically controlled mixers! What do they look like? What do they cost? How do they work?

 

I'd most likely be using the machine when cruising so batteries would be at their best and water would indeed be hot or getting that way.

 

Is it easy / wise / sensible / possible to disconnect the heating element so it can't draw power? That way the wash temperature would be entirely dependant on the temperature of the water going in? I do very little in the way of delicates in a washing machine so that could be an option, I wouldn't be too worried about hot water damaging clothes.

Edited by BlueStringPudding
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I've just googled thermostatically controlled mixer and found some here. I can't vouch for the source or whether they are dearer or cheaper than anywhere else. I suspect that most plumbers merchants would sell them. I have one on my calorifier that I can adjust up or down - I believe the range is between about 40 and 60 degrees. You may have one on yours (or on your shower).

 

Hope that helps although I can't confirm that the idea will work.

 

Ray

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I don't think there's any need for thermostatic mixers,just feel the temp at another hot tap by hand after say the engine has run for say half an hour,depends on the size of the calorifier,temp should be getting up to around 50degs by then.Or pour off a cup full at a nearby hot tap and test it with a simple liquid thermometer.The more or less correct water temp i'm sure could be discovered with a little trial and error.

Alternatively if the machine is set up a fair way from the colorifier, and its filled dead slowly,by the time the hot water reaches the machine it'll probably have lost 10 or so degrees from what it was when it started out on its journey from the calorifier.

 

BSP stands for ''British standard pipe''so------ And there's always the Weedbox and the Plaster mixing paddle drill and bucket to fall back on.

Edited by bizzard
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But if it's not plumbed into the cold water how can it fill with cold water? I can see that the water might be too hot, but I don't understand how it could be too cold...? :unsure:

 

 

It is impossible to do a wash in an automatic machine without cold water, if you go through the wash to the rinse cycles and use hot water then be ready to take your clothes to the oxfam shop labeled "rags". :blush:

 

The m/c has a hot and cold fill valve, connect them both via a "Y" adaptor and you will have problems whether you use the hot or the cold, just all together messy and getting you knowwhere, large inverter and of coarse battery banks the way to go, or God gave you hands to wash with. :wacko:

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It is impossible to do a wash in an automatic machine without cold water, if you go through the wash to the rinse cycles and use hot water then be ready to take your clothes to the oxfam shop labeled "rags". :blush:

??????

 

I always find you can't have too many rags on a boat! :rolleyes:

 

I agree though - I would have thought using water straight from a calorifier for the whole wash process would be fairly devastating on said clothes.

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And of course there's the machine intended for the job. The twin tub which you fill with hot water from another source,no heating element. These i think will run from a moderately sized inverter. About £90 new.

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And of course there's the machine intended for the job. The twin tub which you fill with hot water from another source,no heating element. These i think will run from a moderately sized inverter. About £90 new.

 

Twin tubs, real ones and not the toy type, :rolleyes: do actually have heaters below the agitator but the great thing with a twin tub is you have a lot more control over the machine and you can decide yourself wether to use it, they also have a great spin that again you have great control over.

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Twin tubs, real ones and not the toy type, :rolleyes: do actually have heaters below the agitator but the great thing with a twin tub is you have a lot more control over the machine and you can decide yourself wether to use it, they also have a great spin that again you have great control over.

There is i believe a purpose made smallish twin tub with no element available at chandlers and camping caravan shops.

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I've had this a while now and would never go back to an automatic. I love it and never had clothes come out of a machine so dry. i got it really cheap as well as when it arrived the box was damaged, told them and they refunded £30. Been running fine in the last 5 or 6 months i've had it.

 

It runs fine on my 1600w quasi inverter and uses next to no batt power when cc'ing as its rated only at 250w max i think. Can't beat the germans for a good machine ;)

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TecTake-mini-washing-machine-Spin/dp/B002WTLJKM

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I've had this a while now and would never go back to an automatic. I love it and never had clothes come out of a machine so dry. i got it really cheap as well as when it arrived the box was damaged, told them and they refunded £30. Been running fine in the last 5 or 6 months i've had it.

 

It runs fine on my 1600w quasi inverter and uses next to no batt power when cc'ing as its rated only at 250w max i think. Can't beat the germans for a good machine ;)

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TecTake-mini-washing-machine-Spin/dp/B002WTLJKM

That's the thing i mean,and i think there maybe another make at a similar price.I know someone with one who are equally pleased with it.

 

The old Hoovermatic could be run without the heating element on too. But those old elec motors probably used quite a lot of power.

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That one at Midland Chandlers with the two round see-through "drums" is tiny though Biz. i doubt you'd even fit two pairs of socks in it!

 

The one I've got says it holds 4kg but i think it holds close to a normal size washing machine. We can get all the kingsize bedding in, underwear, socks, trousers and t shirts all in one wash.

 

We have it in engine room, and have a designated tap running off the calorifier to fill it up with. Was GREAT when we were out cruising as we always had scalding hot water from having the engine on. Hands were a bit red though after digging the washing out the water to put in the spinner :cheers:

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That one at Midland Chandlers with the two round see-through "drums" is tiny though Biz. i doubt you'd even fit two pairs of socks in it!

 

The one I've got says it holds 4kg but i think it holds close to a normal size washing machine. We can get all the kingsize bedding in, underwear, socks, trousers and t shirts all in one wash.

 

We have it in engine room, and have a designated tap running off the calorifier to fill it up with. Was GREAT when we were out cruising as we always had scalding hot water from having the engine on. Hands were a bit red though after digging the washing out the water to put in the spinner :cheers:

As i only wear socks in the winter and only have 2 odd pairs that would have done me.

Anyway the Auf Deutch one you mention sounds like just the job for BSP.

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It is impossible to do a wash in an automatic machine without cold water, if you go through the wash to the rinse cycles and use hot water then be ready to take your clothes to the oxfam shop labeled "rags". :blush:

 

The m/c has a hot and cold fill valve, connect them both via a "Y" adaptor and you will have problems whether you use the hot or the cold, just all together messy and getting you knowwhere, large inverter and of coarse battery banks the way to go, or God gave you hands to wash with. :wacko:

 

Erm... Having worked in theatre costume departments most of my life I can vouch that the need for a cold rinse is hogwash! And i have never so much as shrunk a hog in the wash. There is no need for a cold rinse. The machine has one water inlet only.

 

And in response to the last few posts...

I already have a washing machine! Thanks though. :rolleyes::smiley_offtopic:

 

 

Back to the point. So far through PMs and this thread, I have had the following suggestions for inverters:

 

1000w modified

 

2500w pure

 

1500w modified.

 

Any more suggestions? Preferably from people who have washing machine on their boats and who have run them from an inverter?

 

Also what about my question about heating elements? Anyone ever disconnected one?

 

Thanks

Edited by BlueStringPudding
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Erm... Having worked in theatre costume departments most of my life I can vouch that the need for a cold rinse is hogwash! And i have never so much as shrunk a hog in the wash. There is no need for a cold rinse. The machine has one water inlet only.

 

And in response to the last few posts...

I already have a washing machine! Thanks though. :rolleyes::smiley_offtopic:

 

 

Back to the point. So far through PMs and this thread, I have had the following suggestions for inverters:

 

1000w modified

 

2500w pure

 

1500w modified.

 

Any more suggestions? Preferably from people who have washing machine on their boats and who have run them from an inverter?

 

Also what about my question about heating elements? Anyone ever disconnected one?

 

Thanks

If you take the back off. And at the bottom of the outer drum ''the big round thing suspended on big springs''you should see the back terminals of the element,take the wires off 2 or 3 of them and thoroughly tape up the bare wire ends (terminals)and try it.But i expect you want to know if it'll work before you buy an inverter.Well this i'm not sure,not being a washing machine expert you understand. But there must be someone who does. Quo-Vadis used to be the man.

Now about my socks. I agree that dunking boiling hot washing into cold water is wrong to rinse it for doing it like that makes my socks go all rough and brittle giving me great discomfort like they're made of sandpaper.I always rinse my washing in warm water.

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Erm... Having worked in theatre costume departments most of my life I can vouch that the need for a cold rinse is hogwash! And i have never so much as shrunk a hog in the wash. There is no need for a cold rinse. The machine has one water inlet only.

 

 

Having been a service engineer for well over 30yrs i suggest you experiment by washing your lace smalls and then rinse same with 60o+ water, i dare say you'll be sqeeking as you walk.

 

If your machine is a one pipe fill then it will require a cold supply, and thus your heater will heat the water, if you decide to be a numpty and connect it to the hot supply you will be rinsing in 60o+ water and will be wearing those sqeeky lace knickers. :blink:

 

If you take the back off. And at the bottom of the outer drum ''the big round thing suspended on big springs''you should see the back terminals of the element,take the wires off 2 or 3 of them and thoroughly tape up the bare wire ends (terminals)and try it.But i expect you want to know if it'll work before you buy an inverter.Well this i'm not sure,not being a washing machine expert you understand. But there must be someone who does. Quo-Vadis used to be the man.

 

If you bypass the heater or disconnect it you'll find the machine will stick on the program as it wont move on until the thermostat senses that the water has reached the desired temp.

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:blink: smalls? I'll have you know my lace smalls are quite big! :lol: and I don't machine wash delicates. As anyone who has had the misfortune of visiting my boat on wash day can confirm, coz the blighters are usually hanging all around the bathroom to dry. :blush: a scary thought.

 

If you bypass the heater or disconnect it you'll find the machine will stick on the program as it wont move on until the thermostat senses that the water has reached the desired temp.

 

So the machine could stick if the water temperature hasn't reached what it thinks it ought to. Which won't be a problem if running it from the hot pipe... Unless the hot water runs out.

 

Next question: the coolest wash cycle on the chart printed on the machine is the 30 degree wash. The temperature dial however goes down to 20 degrees. I assume the temperature dial over rides the cycle choice, so I might choose a normal wash at 20 degrees instead of 40 or 60 degrees? If that's right then that makes it even easier to prevent the thermostat sensor halting proceedings, surely, because I could fill the machine with water that is anything above 20 degrees to prevent the stalling? Is that right? In essence in that situation I would be controlling the temperature of the wash via the water going in, either with a thermostatic wotsit or at calorifier temperature.

 

If you take the back off. And at the bottom of the outer drum ''the big round thing suspended on big springs''

 

Is that like Baldrick's Big papery thing tied up with string? :D

Edited by BlueStringPudding
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:blink: smalls? I'll have you know my lace smalls are quite big! :lol: and I don't machine wash delicates. As anyone who has had the misfortune of visiting my boat on wash day can confirm, coz the blighters are usually hanging all around the bathroom to dry. :blush: a scary thought.

 

 

 

So the machine could stick if the water temperature hasn't reached what it thinks it ought to. Which won't be a problem if running it from the hot pipe... Unless the hot water runs out.

 

Next question: the coolest wash cycle on the chart printed on the machine is the 30 degree wash. The temperature dial however goes down to 20 degrees. I assume the temperature dial over rides the cycle choice, so I might choose a normal wash at 20 degrees instead of 40 or 60 degrees? If that's right then that makes it even easier to prevent the thermostat sensor halting proceedings, surely, because I could fill the machine with water that is anything above 20 degrees to prevent the stalling? Is that right? In essence in that situation I would be controlling the temperature of the wash via the water going in, either with a thermostatic wotsit or at calorifier temperature.

 

 

 

Is that like Baldrick's Big papery thing tied up with string? :D

Sort of,more like an enormous spider lurking in the centre of its web waiting foe its unsuspecting dinner to arrive when the wind blows and makes it all go aquiver and bobble about on its website.

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The temperature dial however goes down to 20 degrees. I assume the temperature dial over rides the cycle choice, so I might choose a normal wash at 20 degrees instead of 40 or 60 degrees? If that's right then that makes it even easier to prevent the thermostat sensor halting proceedings, surely, because I could fill the machine with water that is anything above 20 degrees to prevent the stalling? Is that right? In essence in that situation I would be controlling the temperature of the wash via the water going in, either with a thermostatic wotsit or at calorifier temperature.

 

 

That is possible, but as i said earlier, messy!! and to be honest with a 3kg wash load that can take over an hr and a half using upto 50lts of water i would imagine the term wash DAY would mean exactly that, you'll be all day washing. :angry:

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