Fendering

[system 4-50]

Still quite a novice but done a few mlocks (miles&locks), and I have a few fendering problems.

1. I want to protect the sides of the bow (not the prow itself), particularly when getting away from the bank when I have stopped for a lock and been forced close to the lock, especially in strong wind. How do I do that?

2. I want to stop banging when moored on a bend. Concave & convex.

3. Armco whose top edge is at water level.

Has anybody got any suggestions?

[RLWP]

for 2 - learn how to use spring lines when mooring up

 

Richard

[grunders]

For 1 - I suppose you could use some sort of long rubber/rope fender which is attached at the T-stud and then at a point where the deckboard/cratchboard would be and loops down to almost water level in between (not sure whether that would work nor how attractive it would be).

For 2 - as well as using springs (searchable on this forum), hang fenders at the points of contact - if no suitable hanging point on the boat, hang from the bank.

For 3 - use fenders that don't float and dangle them in the water - e.g. a tyre (vertically) with half (or more, or less) in the water.

 

Hope that helps

Edited April 13, 2012 by grunders

[RLWP]

Oh yes, for 1, leave the bank by reversing, not going forward

 

Richard

[system 4-50]

For 1 - I suppose you could use some sort of long rubber/rope fender which is attached at the T-stud and then at a point where the deckboard/cratchboard would be and loops down to almost water level in between (not sure whether that would work nor how attractive it would be).

Any idea where you can get long rope-fenders from? I've not seen them about.

For 2 - as well as using springs (searchable on this forum), hang fenders at the points of contact - if no suitable hanging point on the boat, hang from the bank.

I'll look up springs. The point of contact is often small enough to make this difficult?

For 3 - use fenders that don't float and dangle them in the water - e.g. a tyre (vertically) with half (or more, or less) in the water.

I'm running out of room in the boat. Black fenders, blue fenders, shelf wheels, and now half sunk tyres!

Hope that helps

Thanks for the responses. I'll experiment.

[Robbo]

Thanks for the responses. I'll experiment.

 

Wrap around rope here http://www.tradline.co/WRAP-AROUND-FENDERING.html

[davidc]

here,s a simple cartoon on using spring moorings

 

 

 

 

 

hope this helps

[jelunga]

Great little cartoon. Some good ideas there.

[OldGoldy]

Oh yes, for 1, leave the bank by reversing, not going forward

 

 

With engine running before untying ropes, push off bows (front of cabin) then walk back to steer to go forwards. If locking, use only centre line.

 

If not windy, wot 'e said, reverse, but again, push off stern first.

 

If windy, try to steer off in reverse. Many people just get on and 'drive' with no concern for the steelwork running against coping stones/armco (is it just novice hirers?)

[keble]

Oh yes, for 1, leave the bank by reversing, not going forward

 

Richard

Seconded! One of the most useful things I learned was the "stern off" technique. Take a look at this RYA page. It might stop bumping and scraping

ETA actually that page doesn't show the first important step, which is to go forward a little but steering so that your stern moves out. Then you can reverse to get away from the bank. No need to push from the bank at all. All bets are off when it's windy though!

Edited April 14, 2012 by keble

[RLWP]

If you want to be clever, loop a stern line around a bollard, cast off at the front, reverse until the stern line comes tight and the bow will come out.

 

I don't know why I'm going on about leaving lock landings after using a mooring or handling line. The last place you will find me at a lock is tied up parallel to the bank with a bit of rope in my hand. Loitering at locks is one of my favourite sports, and the crazier the angle of the boat to the bank the better

 

Richard

[Doorman]

If locking, use only centre line.

 

I used to use this technique when mooring in readiness to get a lock set. That is, until another boater described how he nearly lost his home when doing the same. On emptying the lock, the rush of water forced the bow of his boat away from the bank and because it was tethered by the centre line, the boat listed to such a degree that water began to flow into his side hatch.

 

Luckily, he closed the paddle down in time to avert the ensuing disaster, but vowed never to simply secure the boat at the centre line without also tying the bow line too!

Edited April 14, 2012 by Doorman

[keble]

I used to use this technique when mooring in readiness to get a lock set. That is, until another boater described how he nearly lost his home when doing the same. On emptying the lock, the rush of water forced the bow of his boat away from the bank and because it was tethered by the centre line, the boat listed to such a degree that water began to flow into his side hatch.

 

Luckily, he closed the paddle down in time to avert the ensuing disaster, but vowed never to simply secure the boat at the centre line without also tying the bow line too!

I had a similar experience on the Avon. Centre lines are scary!

[Grace and Favour]

Still quite a novice but done a few mlocks (miles&locks), and I have a few fendering problems.

1. I want to protect the sides of the bow (not the prow itself), particularly when getting away from the bank when I have stopped for a lock and been forced close to the lock, especially in strong wind. How do I do that?

 

 

In addition to all the rather useful tips in previous posts - - - Blackrose's boat has a rather simple, and beautifully effective fender - bow to (each) side.

[MtB]

ETA actually that page doesn't show the first important step, which is to go forward a little but steering so that your stern moves out. Then you can reverse to get away from the bank. No need to push from the bank at all. All bets are off when it's windy though!

 

Hmmm I don't find this quite as simple as you make it sound!

 

When I reverse off the bank, the bow resolutely sticks to the bank no matter how far I reverse, and eventually the stern gets to the opposite bank. Engaging 'ahead' with full rudder once the bote is diagonally across the cut simply returns me to my original position alongside the bank.

 

Obviously there is a secret boat magnet installed in lock landings as I get this amusing effect constantly, and manual pushing off at the bow is often the only option.

 

Or could it be that I am doing it wrong?

[RLWP]

Hmmm I don't find this quite as simple as you make it sound!

 

When I reverse off the bank, the bow resolutely sticks to the bank no matter how far I reverse, and eventually the stern gets to the opposite bank. Engaging 'ahead' with full rudder once the bote is diagonally across the cut simply returns me to my original position alongside the bank.

 

Obviously there is a secret boat magnet installed in lock landings as I get this amusing effect constantly, and manual pushing off at the bow is often the only option.

 

Or could it be that I am doing it wrong?

 

Your problem is that your boat is 'ncredibly deep in the water. All bets are off and you need to learn your own techniques

 

Richard

[Grace and Favour]

Hmmm I don't find this quite as simple as you make it sound!

 

When I reverse off the bank, the bow resolutely sticks to the bank no matter how far I reverse, and eventually the stern gets to the opposite bank. Engaging 'ahead' with full rudder once the bote is diagonally across the cut simply returns me to my original position alongside the bank.

 

Obviously there is a secret boat magnet installed in lock landings as I get this amusing effect constantly, and manual pushing off at the bow is often the only option.

 

Or could it be that I am doing it wrong?

 

Shirley - - - just give a little squeeze on the bowthruster button?????

 

 

 

 

 

Oops

[johnmck]

Shirley - - - just give a little squeeze on the bowthruster button?????

 

 

 

 

 

Oops

 

 

I was going to say that! ( But did not dare in fear of the inevitable wrath.)

[keble]

Hmmm I don't find this quite as simple as you make it sound!

 

When I reverse off the bank, the bow resolutely sticks to the bank no matter how far I reverse, and eventually the stern gets to the opposite bank. Engaging 'ahead' with full rudder once the bote is diagonally across the cut simply returns me to my original position alongside the bank.

 

Obviously there is a secret boat magnet installed in lock landings as I get this amusing effect constantly, and manual pushing off at the bow is often the only option.

 

Or could it be that I am doing it wrong?

Possibly it's easier for me cos the G&S is w i d e!

Edited April 14, 2012 by keble

[nicknorman]

Hmmm I don't find this quite as simple as you make it sound!

 

When I reverse off the bank, the bow resolutely sticks to the bank no matter how far I reverse, and eventually the stern gets to the opposite bank. Engaging 'ahead' with full rudder once the bote is diagonally across the cut simply returns me to my original position alongside the bank.

 

Obviously there is a secret boat magnet installed in lock landings as I get this amusing effect constantly, and manual pushing off at the bow is often the only option.

 

Or could it be that I am doing it wrong?

Kind of similar problem to our 2'8" draft boat. What is wrong with getting off and pushing the bow (one needs some excercise!) or get the other half a teeshirt that has printed on it "I AM the bowthruster". I find that making the high pitched whirly whiny noise from the back usually prompts the correct actions from the crew in the front. People do tend to look though.

[Doorman]

Kind of similar problem to our 2'8" draft boat. What is wrong with getting off and pushing the bow (one needs some excercise!) or get the other half a teeshirt that has printed on it "I AM the bowthruster". I find that making the high pitched whirly whiny noise from the back usually prompts the correct actions from the crew in the front. People do tend to look though.

 

 

That's all very well if the other half has 9 horse power like the thing that's connected to our girlie button!

 

I remember when we specified that addition on our boat, our friends who are far more experienced than us, gave out howls of derision at our choice of assistance. Whilst out cruising with them, once Mrs Doorman had set off easily with the bow thruster still steaming, I've had to jump off to give our friends a shove off from the bank.

 

I suppose that I'm their bow thruster too!

Edited April 15, 2012 by Doorman