Duratank Flexible Tank Liners

[n.b.Goldie]

Having recently cleaned, de-rusted, vactan'd and blacked the integral water tank on my little ship I have now decided it is a dog of a job and now want to fit a tank liner.

 

I have spoken to Duratank who have been very helpful and have suggested lining the integral tank with something like nylon carpet for the liner to rest on.

 

Have my fellow CWDF members any experience of tank liners? If so, what did you use as a 'cushion' for the liner, also, what outlet type did you use, I am considering having an elbow on the outlet to take the pipe to the top of the bulkhead before it goes through it. A syphon similar to the fuel tank so that should the tank burst the water will not flood the cabin.

 

Any hints and tips will be most appreciated.

 

Thanks

Ditchdabbler

[Ray T]

One suggestion I have been told of is the orange plastic temporary fencing.

 

http://premierbarrie...eavy-p-432.html

 

Two layers allow the water tank to move when filling and emptying. Also it will not soak up any splashed water.

 

However, others may know better!

Edited February 12, 2012 by Ray T

[blackrose]

I am considering having an elbow on the outlet to take the pipe to the top of the bulkhead before it goes through it. A syphon similar to the fuel tank so that should the tank burst the water will not flood the cabin.

 

So do you mean that these tank liners don't use the existing tank outlet and require an additional hole to be made in the bulkhead?

 

Your syphon idea doesn't sound bad, except that I don't think most domestic water pumps are self priming, in which case I'm not sure if the pump will be able to draw water up the pipe and out of the tank (at least not after the tank is emptied and air gets into the pipe)? I might be wrong, but if this were possible then why would most builders put the outlet spigot at the bottom of the tank?

Edited February 13, 2012 by blackrose

[n.b.Goldie]

So do you mean that these tank liners don't use the existing tank outlet and require an additional hole to be made in the bulkhead?

 

Your syphon idea doesn't sound bad, except that I don't think most domestic water pumps are self priming, in which case I'm not sure if the pump will be able to draw water up the pipe and out of the tank (at least not after the tank is emptied and air gets into the pipe)? I might be wrong, but if this were possible then why would most builders put the outlet spigot at the bottom of the tank?

 

The tank liner can use the existing outlet except that in my case the outlet is welded flush into the bulkhead which forms part of the integral tank. Duratank say that this pipe should be removed and a replacement pipe put through the bulkhead protruding right through and into the tank for a couple if inches for the liner outlet to connect to.

 

My thought is that in the hopefully unlikely event of liner failure there will then be a way through the bulkhead for the water to flood the cabin hence my idea of the syphon. I have yet to confirm whether the pump will lift the water although when full it will only have to lift it six inches or so and when empty no more than a couple of foot. I would be interested to hear of anyone who has done this or am I the first?

 

Thanks

Ditchdabbler

[Rebotco]

The tank liner can use the existing outlet except that in my case the outlet is welded flush into the bulkhead which forms part of the integral tank. Duratank say that this pipe should be removed and a replacement pipe put through the bulkhead protruding right through and into the tank for a couple if inches for the liner outlet to connect to.

 

My thought is that in the hopefully unlikely event of liner failure there will then be a way through the bulkhead for the water to flood the cabin hence my idea of the syphon. I have yet to confirm whether the pump will lift the water although when full it will only have to lift it six inches or so and when empty no more than a couple of foot. I would be interested to hear of anyone who has done this or am I the first?

 

Thanks

Ditchdabbler

 

From a previous thread, you may recall that I am planning an almost identical installation. I have decided to wait for

 

warmer weather though to deal with cleaning out the integral tank first. Something to look forward to!!

 

I did find Richard of Duratank to be extremely knowledgable and helpful in working out what needs to be done.

 

Can you clarify about having to fit a new pipe through the bulkhead protruding into the existing tank - would it not be

 

possible for the flexible tank to have a "tail" that could poke through a new hole in the bulkhead, so the supply

 

connection is made outside the tank rather than within? In my case the access hole at the top of the integral tank is only

 

about 10" square and I dont relish having to make watertight joints inside the tank!

 

Cheers

[bizzard]

Having recently cleaned, de-rusted, vactan'd and blacked the integral water tank on my little ship I have now decided it is a dog of a job and now want to fit a tank liner.

 

I have spoken to Duratank who have been very helpful and have suggested lining the integral tank with something like nylon carpet for the liner to rest on.

 

Have my fellow CWDF members any experience of tank liners? If so, what did you use as a 'cushion' for the liner, also, what outlet type did you use, I am considering having an elbow on the outlet to take the pipe to the top of the bulkhead before it goes through it. A syphon similar to the fuel tank so that should the tank burst the water will not flood the cabin.

 

Any hints and tips will be most appreciated.

 

Thanks

Ditchdabbler

Ahoy DD. I have a spare Surflow Aquaking water pump which i can rig up over a bowl of water with tubes connected and can then experiment with different vertical suction heights and by also starting the pump on air first and then water also at different heights to simulate an empty tank.Its raining here at the moment but can carry out the experiment tomorrow after a job i'm finishing. ps Hows your landlady ?. Regards Bizzard.

[n.b.Goldie]

From a previous thread, you may recall that I am planning an almost identical installation. I have decided to wait for

 

warmer weather though to deal with cleaning out the integral tank first. Something to look forward to!!

 

I did find Richard of Duratank to be extremely knowledgable and helpful in working out what needs to be done.

 

Can you clarify about having to fit a new pipe through the bulkhead protruding into the existing tank - would it not be

 

possible for the flexible tank to have a "tail" that could poke through a new hole in the bulkhead, so the supply

 

connection is made outside the tank rather than within? In my case the access hole at the top of the integral tank is only

 

about 10" square and I dont relish having to make watertight joints inside the tank!

 

Cheers

 

Hi Brian

 

Sorry, I got this bit wrong. The tank does indeed have a 'tail' which pokes through a new hole in the bulkhead, the tail can be a hose-tail or suitable for Hep2o/Speedfit for example. This still leaves me with a hole at the bottom of the bulkhead and I would rather, if possible, have the hole at the top. Luckily, my access hatch is large enough for me to get completely inside the tank.

 

Ahoy DD. I have a spare Surflow Aquaking water pump which i can rig up over a bowl of water with tubes connected and can then experiment with different vertical suction heights and by also starting the pump on air first and then water also at different heights to simulate an empty tank.Its raining here at the moment but can carry out the experiment tomorrow after a job i'm finishing. ps Hows your landlady ?. Regards Bizzard.

 

Hi Bizzard

 

I know my pump is a Shurflow but not if it is an Aquaking but even so it would be a good indication as to whether my plan is feasible. Many thanks for doing this.

 

My Landlady is fine and looking forward to a good season's cruising!

 

p.s. the Wheezes are going down well in our club magazine, many thanks for letting me use them.

 

Regards to you both

Ditchdabbler

 

Edited to say what I meant to say, not what I wrote........................

Edited February 14, 2012 by ditchdabbler

[bizzard]

Hi Brian

 

Sorry, I got this bit wrong. The tank does indeed have a 'tail' which pokes through a new hole in the bulkhead, the tail can be a hose-tail or suitable for Hep2o/Speedfit for example. This still leaves me with a hole at the bottom of the bulkhead and I would rather, if possible, have the hole at the top. Luckily, my access hatch is large enough for me to get completely inside the tank.

 

 

 

Hi Bizzard

 

I know my pump is a Shurflow but not if it is an Aquaking but even so it would be a good indication as to whether my plan is feasible. Many thanks for doing this.

 

My Landlady is fine and looking forward to a good season's cruising!

 

p.s. the Wheezes are going down well in our club magazine, many thanks for letting me use them.

 

Regards to you both

Ditchdabbler

 

Edited to say what I meant to say, not what I wrote........................

Ahoy DD. Have done the experiment. Using the lengths of spare wire and tubing i had at hand, the pump pumped fine and primed and started on air at a height of about 4 feet above a bowl of water.I have since ''this morning''found the Surflow instruction leaflets and it states that the Aqua-King and its predecessor which is probably what you have will both prime from a height of 6 feet.Hope this helps.

Glad you and your landlady are both well and looking forward to summer boat trips.

Glad the wheezes are going down well.I have have been quite busy lately but will soon get down to some serious wheezing.

Take care. Regards Bizzard.

[n.b.Goldie]

Ahoy DD. Have done the experiment. Using the lengths of spare wire and tubing i had at hand, the pump pumped fine and primed and started on air at a height of about 4 feet above a bowl of water.I have since ''this morning''found the Surflow instruction leaflets and it states that the Aqua-King and its predecessor which is probably what you have will both prime from a height of 6 feet.Hope this helps.

Glad you and your landlady are both well and looking forward to summer boat trips.

Glad the wheezes are going down well.I have have been quite busy lately but will soon get down to some serious wheezing.

Take care. Regards Bizzard.

 

Thanks once again for doing the experiment, I am now more confident of going down the syphon route.

 

I think I have decided to line the tank with nylon carpet tiles before inserting the liner.

 

Next stage is to draw up the dimensions and send them to Duratank and see what they say.

 

Thanks to all, will keep you informed as to progress (or hitches!)

 

Ditchdabbler

[RLWP]

Hi, we fitted one of their tanks in about 2004 as I'd had the job of cleaning the water tank, and don't ever intend doing it again!!!!

 

We bought a roll of that very thin polystyrene sheet stationers sell for wrapping fragile things to post. The roll was about 1m wide and 50 m long, but not very expensive, so 2 layers of that. It's easy to put in we taped it to the inside of the tank.

 

Don't forget that as the tank emptied it will deflate, so whatever you use need to be stuck to the tank else it will fall down, and might not protect the tank after numerous fillings.

 

You have made the right choice (well I think so)

 

Sue

[n.b.Goldie]

Hi, we fitted one of their tanks in about 2004 as I'd had the job of cleaning the water tank, and don't ever intend doing it again!!!!

 

We bought a roll of that very thin polystyrene sheet stationers sell for wrapping fragile things to post. The roll was about 1m wide and 50 m long, but not very expensive, so 2 layers of that. It's easy to put in we taped it to the inside of the tank.

 

Don't forget that as the tank emptied it will deflate, so whatever you use need to be stuck to the tank else it will fall down, and might not protect the tank after numerous fillings.

 

You have made the right choice (well I think so)

 

Sue

 

I wondered about using something like thin expanded polystyrene but the Duratank man said it should be a minimum of about 6mm thick to avoid condensation between liner and tank. He said that it might be awkward to fix and would crumble over time hence his recommendation of carpet. I thought I might affix the tiles with something like silicon sealer or gripfill spread on the back of the tiles.

 

Have you looked inside your tank since 2004, have you any condensation water between liner and tank? I guess this would be done with the tank pretty much empty though!.

 

Have you a breather for the tank, If you have would this not prevent the tank from deflating (but not sagging)?

 

Thanks for confirming my choice, a satisfied user is always encouraging.

 

Regards

Ditchdabbler

[Glynn]

How did this go ?.

 

Did you not consider using 1 inch sheets of Kingspan therm board instead of polystyrene ?.

Edited June 30, 2012 by Glynn