Single Handed boating....any good tips?

[Guest leeparkinson]

the best way to do locks is always use one side of a lock and if you are going to do a lock flight set off early morning and go ahead and set some locks so you can either push the gates with your boat or just nip off and open them .you should try the practice that everything and the ropes have there own place and when you have used it put it back .if you use centre lines dont be like most people who have it just long enough to reach the end of the cabin you want a proper lengh of rope

[the grinch]

make the centre line long enough to lay along the roof to reach the point where you can grab it, but keep it short enough that if it falls in, it won't reach your prop!!

 

i always use a centre line and leave the boat in forward gear once tied in a lock (perfected the technique after a few tries so that it keeps clear of cill and allows me to open gates)

[blackrose]

Thames locks can be tricky, but i always make sure the locky knows i'm on my own, then i tie a long line from the bow t stud back to a suitable ring/bollard making sure there is enough slack for the boat to raise or lower fully, then i angle the rear line and after wrapping it around a bollard, hold this by hand, to secure the stern keeping everything nice and in control.

 

I was practising Thames locks single-handed last summer and employed more or less the same technique, except that I took the bow rope forward when going downhill, which means the boat moves forward slightly as the water level drops (so you need a clear space in front - not a plastic boat!) Is there any advantage in bringing the bow rope back at an angle? This just means the boat will move backwards slightly doesn't it? Perhaps it's better to have the boat moving slightly back into a space which you can see next to you rather then a space in front of the boat which you can't see?

 

However, when going uphill I see no reason to angle the bow rope backwards or forwards. Since the rope will always get looser as the water level rises why would you want to make it any longer than necessary? If you angle the bow rope backwards isn't it more likely that you'll end up with an excess of rope which could potentially lead to an uncontrolled bow? I tend to take the bow rope to the nearest forward bollard (ideally within a couple of feet), and knowing that it's going to get looser I angle the stern rope back and allow the boat to move backwards which means the bow rope ends up angled forward, but it stays tight & keeps the bow in.

 

Just reading what I've written... Does any of this make any sense?

Edited January 2, 2012 by blackrose

[Bloomsberry]

Remember to switch the water pump off while cruising. I forgot once last year and after a finshing for the day found the majority of the contents of the water tank in the boat after the filter had split during the voyage. Not recommended !

 

Be extremely vigilant at keeping watch over the boat when the boat is rising and falling in a lock.

[blackrose]

Remember to switch the water pump off while cruising. I forgot once last year and after a finshing for the day found the majority of the contents of the water tank in the boat after the filter had split during the voyage. Not recommended !

 

That's a good point actually. Since you will be spending time taking care of things outside it's a good idea to make sure everything inside is taken care of before you move. Engine vibrations and the occasional knock on a lock wall might cause something like this to happen and because there's nobody inside you won't find out until you've moored up for the night.

[monkeyhanger]

You will meet others at locks coming the other way or from behind, but don't let anyone rush you. If they look like they're in a hurry explain to them that you're single-handed and will be working the lock at your own pace. If you're sharing a lock then it's a slightly different situation, but the same principal applies. Most reasonable crews will suggest that you stay on your boat while they work the lock.

 

If you're working a lock and passers-by start talking to you, don't become distracted and always keep your eye on your boat.

 

As a moorer in London, I've got used to making sure my front doors are locked from the inside when travelling through urban areas, especially when working locks. It's very easy to be distracted and this can allow undesirables on your boat.

[GSer]

I was practising Thames locks single-handed last summer and employed more or less the same technique, except that I took the bow rope forward when going downhill, which means the boat moves forward slightly as the water level drops (so you need a clear space in front - not a plastic boat!) Is there any advantage in bringing the bow rope back at an angle? This just means the boat will move backwards slightly doesn't it? Perhaps it's better to have the boat moving slightly back into a space which you can see next to you rather then a space in front of the boat which you can't see?

 

However, when going uphill I see no reason to angle the bow rope backwards or forwards. Since the rope will always get looser as the water level rises why would you want to make it any longer than necessary? If you angle the bow rope backwards isn't it more likely that you'll end up with an excess of rope which could potentially lead to an uncontrolled bow? I tend to take the bow rope to the nearest forward bollard (ideally within a couple of feet), and knowing that it's going to get looser I angle the stern rope back and allow the boat to move backwards which means the bow rope ends up angled forward, but it stays tight & keeps the bow in.

 

Just reading what I've written... Does any of this make any sense?

 

 

I tend to be standing on my tug deck when the bow line is thrown or threaded by the locky around a suitable device. Then the rear line can be kept tight whilst looking towards the lockkeeper for pity, just seems to work for me. I'm quite willing to go with the flow though and always make sure i'm capable of adapting to circumstances evolving around me.

 

Paul

[Mac of Cygnet]

I tend to be standing on my tug deck when the bow line is thrown or threaded by the locky around a suitable device. Then the rear line can be kept tight whilst looking towards the lockkeeper for pity, just seems to work for me. I'm quite willing to go with the flow though and always make sure i'm capable of adapting to circumstances evolving around me.

 

Paul

 

On the Thames locks last summer, as they have steps, not ladders, I soon decided that I had more control when off the boat, even if the lock was operated by a lockie. Easy enough to walk up or down the steps with the appropriate ropes.

Edited January 2, 2012 by Mac of Cygnet

[GSer]

On the Thames locks last summer, as they have steps, not ladders, I soon decided that I had more control when off the boat, even if the lock was operated by a lockie. Easy enough to walk up or down the steps with the appropriate ropes.

 

 

Yes, agreed, steps are handy if you end up in a position to be able to use them, but i find by the time i've secured the boat both ends then gone back on board to switch the engine off, its often more conveinient just to stay on board.

[cazberry]

wow...you lot are all amazing...

I've started to copy all the great advice into a book....

if I read it all at once it can be a little daunting...but bit by bit this is all going to prove invaluable...

 

maybe we should publish the forums 'single handed cruising' booklet?!!

 

Anna S...have tried to pm you but cant so will contact you via F/B soon

 

everyone

[granddad]

can anyone tell me the best way to pass a lift bridge when singlehanded (205 on the oxford) where the off shore is built up to boat roof height, there are no bollards and the bridge is very heavy and secures open with a chain on the bight.

ken

[The Pipe]

can anyone tell me the best way to pass a lift bridge when singlehanded (205 on the oxford) where the off shore is built up to boat roof height, there are no bollards and the bridge is very heavy and secures open with a chain on the bight.

ken

Lift it from the off side (at times it can be a bit heavy) and shove a Banbury stick under it (on the exit side of the bridge because this is where your going to whip it out from). I can get through all those lift bridges as fast and usually faster than any multi crewed boat.

I have a tug deck so I shove the fordeck under the bridge run down the gunnel lift the bridge prop it with the Banbury stick (actually it's my mop!) back down the gunnel and pull the stick out as I come past.

If you have a cratch not a good idea to shove the bows under the bridge!

[bizzard]

Surely all this is to no avail.Its nothing like ''single''handed boating.

[The Pipe]

Surely all this is to no avail.Its nothing like ''single''handed boating.

I have 2 hands so my single handed boating must be double handed then!

Edited January 2, 2012 by Jim Evans

[bizzard]

I have 2 hands so my single handed boating must be double handed then!

This is of course what was done before the advent of centre lines and steel roofs.

 

I have 2 hands so my single handed boating must be double handed then!

Or single person.

[The Pipe]

This is of course what was done before the advent of centre lines and steel roofs.

 

 

Or single person.

 

Ah. But he or she could have an absent partner.

There is nothing new about how you work a boat, the only difference now is you now get moaned at for doing it!

Edited January 2, 2012 by Jim Evans

[Max Sinclair]

I have been mainly single handing for 4 years now and agree with all the above. I only ave a single centre line, but have perfected the cross boat flip.

All my junk is well forward of the centre line hold point. I always have a flask of coffee or bovril, or in summer, bottled water. I always leave the beer/wine until I reach destination or pick up friends/family.

The locks are challenging, along with swing bridges. I summer, I invariably leave one gate open when exiting, as it's a 50/50 chance of benefiting someone else, and by the time you have shut one, the other one usually swings open anyway(esp on the GU).

You can usally use the ground and gate paddles to hold the boat to one side of the lock in wide locks....and on windy days, you usually get used to the boat starting against one lock wall, and crossing to the other as the boat rises and the wind catches it.

Basic advice, take it quietly, work it out first, enjoy yourself and all the other boaters who are usually very helpful.