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I know this is an old subject, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the candy half size machines will run off a quasi sine wave inverter? and what the minimum output would be, I have heard various rumours ranging from 2000w to 3000w.

 

Many thanks

 

We run ours off a honda eu genny which is pure sine. Did try a more basic genny and the candy wouldn't start up a wash cycle but our dryer was ok with it though. I'd very much doubt a quasi sine inverter would do the job.

Most common combination I've seen is the victron 3000 and candy w/m.

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Ah I suspected as much! I want to make sure i make the right purchase when I get a new inverter!

 

I suppose this begs the question, aside from the initial purchase price, is there a downside to large inverters? The Sterling combi units draw 2 amps in standby (all models). If I only need 3000w occaisionally,but mostly only use up to 1000w, Does the large inverter draw more power to provide 1000w than a lower rated model?

 

Many thanks

 

Ah I suspected as much! I want to make sure i make the right purchase when I get a new inverter!

 

I suppose this begs the question, aside from the initial purchase price, is there a downside to large inverters? The Sterling combi units draw 2 amps in standby (all models). If I only need 3000w occaisionally,but mostly only use up to 1000w, Does the large inverter draw more power to provide 1000w than a lower rated model?

 

Many thanks

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Tbh I can't really advise as we avoided the big inverter on the basis of not having shore power to recharge the batteries. (What you take out power wise you have to put back in plus a bit more).

With a bit of searching there are quite a few threads here regarding w/m and powering them.

If you go the inverter route, why not 2? 3000watt for the w/m and a cheapy 300 or 600w from maplins for your tv, dvd, laptop etc

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i have the candy 10t and it runs off a ring 2000w inverter with no problems the new candy wouldnt run off it though being electric timer rather than mechanical.the 10t also has hot and cold fill.

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Ah I suspected as much! I want to make sure i make the right purchase when I get a new inverter!

 

I suppose this begs the question, aside from the initial purchase price, is there a downside to large inverters? The Sterling combi units draw 2 amps in standby (all models). If I only need 3000w occaisionally,but mostly only use up to 1000w, Does the large inverter draw more power to provide 1000w than a lower rated model?

 

Many thanks

 

I do not know about the inverter loading, check each one's specification.

 

Just some observations:

 

The inverter needs to be large (Kw/Kva)enough to take the largest load (Kw/Kva, wahing machine).

 

A washing machine cannot be run from the batteries, via the inverter, unless the battery bank is much, much larger than 'norm', the engine/generator will need to be running, therefore cut out the losses and run the washing machine directly from a 240v generator.

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I know this is an old subject, but I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the candy half size machines will run off a quasi sine wave inverter? and what the minimum output would be, I have heard various rumours ranging from 2000w to 3000w.

 

Many thanks

We occasionally, when the engine is running, have a sterling 1800w (2.5k peak) powering the (student) Candy. For all it's hot & cold fill it always just takes the cold and that's what takes the power; Never got round to at least doing a mixer but there's confined space!

Edited by blodger
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Surely the large inverter only draws large amounts of power from the batteries when running a high ampage appliance? if running TV, laptop etc it would only draw what it needs, or am I incorrect? The reason I want a larger inverter is to account for those very occaisional times when I might need more power, certainly not on a regular basis.

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Surely the large inverter only draws large amounts of power from the batteries when running a high ampage appliance? if running TV, laptop etc it would only draw what it needs, or am I incorrect? You are correct but a washing machine will flatten your batteries in no time, unless the battery bank is huge and then the batteries will need to be re-charged, so cut out the dis-charge, charge cycle (losses) and run the really heavy stuff [washing machine], directly from a generator, engine mounted or stand aloneThe reason I want a larger inverter is to account for those very occaisional times when I might need more power, certainly not on a regular basis.Nothing wrong with that

 

My set up 60ft narrowboat all electric:

 

Domestic batteries : 24v. 340amp/hr

 

Inverter: Combi Victron 24v. 2000va/1600w, 50amp (charger)

 

Generator: Cummins/Onan 7Kw

 

Domestic appliances: Hob, fan oven, fridge, freezer, washer/dryer.

 

This has all been wired and programmed so that if the load on the inverter is greater than 850watts for 60 seconds the generator auto starts.

 

Edit: Inadvertent 'K' in the 2000va, thanks Tim

Edited by bottle
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Surely the large inverter only draws large amounts of power from the batteries when running a high ampage appliance? if running TV, laptop etc it would only draw what it needs, or am I incorrect? The reason I want a larger inverter is to account for those very occaisional times when I might need more power, certainly not on a regular basis.

What you say is true. AFAIK the efficiency of a large inverter is not that different from a small inverter, except in the matter of its standby or no-load current drain. The 2A you mention above would be quite a high drain for continuous operation (in 24 hours it would consume 48 amp-hours which is effectively one whole battery's worth) and a smaller inverter would usually take a smaller standby or no-load current.

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As short as I can....

 

The old "studio sized" Candy (mechanical timer/programmer) will work on a modified sinewave inverter.

 

The new "sudio sized" Candy (electronic programmer) will not.

 

You will need a (genuine) 1500 watt or more inverter (the heater is quite small in the studio washers).

 

If you heat water in the washing machine from an inverter (and hence the batteries) you are insane. You can avoid this if you only do it while the engine is running and you have a really big alternator.

 

Alternatively, put hot water into it from the boat hot water system and turn the thermostat (if it has one) down to zero. If it doesnt have one then either only use cold wash cycles (but still put hot water in it) or get a washing machine man to disconnect the heater and fool the thermostat.

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My set up 60ft narrowboat all electric:

 

Domestic batteries : 24v. 340amp/hr

 

Inverter: Combi Victron 24v. 2000Kva/1600w, 50amp (charger)

 

Generator: Cummins/Onan 7Kw

 

Domestic appliances: Hob, fan oven, fridge, freezer, washer/dryer.

 

This has all been wired and programmed so that if the load on the inverter is greater than 850watts for 60 seconds the generator auto starts.

 

That'll empty the batteries in no time at all :lol:

 

Tim

:lol:

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Surely the large inverter only draws large amounts of power from the batteries when running a high ampage appliance? if running TV, laptop etc it would only draw what it needs, or am I incorrect? The reason I want a larger inverter is to account for those very occaisional times when I might need more power, certainly not on a regular basis.

 

We have a Victron 24-3000-70 Multiplus, it runs all our 230v lighting very efficiently even down to one 20watt. As you say it does run TV etc efficiently as and when it is called for and it also

runs our domestic Bosch w/m with ease including the heater though we do have the engine running at the time with a large alternator. It also runs our Tefal 3kW instant boiler without engine running which is very handy in the summer as it only takes 20 seconds to boil a cup of water for tea/coffee providing of course we don't run any other 230v appliance at the time.

 

Yes, as Gibbo says, we are insane but do like the convenience and comfort of it all (technology that is, not insanity)

Edited by nb Innisfree
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Is that done by using the "virtual" switch on the Victron?

 

Yes, and setting it up via Victron computer program, available for download from their site.

 

You do need the connection lead (Victorn to computer) about £50 , I think.

Edited by bottle
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Yes, as Gibbo says, we are insane but do like the convenience and comfort of it all (technology that is, not insanity)

I quite like the comfort of insanity myself.

 

If I know I'm insane does that mean I'm not?

 

My brain's hurting again.

 

Tony :lol:

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Just me.

 

Be aware the 'virtual switch' only sends a 'signal'.

 

It cannot take a load, it is rated in milli-amps (from memory), it will need to 'signal' a relay but that relay coil load (the coil that operates the relay) needs to be correct.

 

The 'normal' car relays will not do, I did not get my own but believe the correct type are available from Maplins.

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Just me.

 

Be aware the 'virtual switch' only sends a 'signal'.

 

It cannot take a load, it is rated in milli-amps (from memory), it will need to 'signal' a relay but that relay coil load (the coil that operates the relay) needs to be correct.

 

The 'normal' car relays will not do, I did not get my own but believe the correct type are available from Maplins.

 

 

Ah thanks for that. I would have used a car relay (I thought they were only a few milliamp?). That said I am not sure what the load is on the engine start control unit I have. Will look that up. Its just a wire to ground to trigger so cant be that high.

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