gilby

This will be our fourth winter aboard so don't get me wrong, we don't suffer the cold, just want to improve on things a little. We have two stoves aboard at either end of a 65ft trad. The stove at the back is only used when the weather is really severe. We have an Eco fan but Im not convinced about the rave reviews it gets. I can only say that in our time aboard I find a big difference in temp' at head height compared to foot level. The only area of the boat that gets very cold is the laminated floor in the kitchen. I'll have a wee play with what I have without ducting and see what, if anything, happens. In regards to decent insulation and portholes being the solution, I do agree it would be the ideal method but I can afford to experiment with fans, I can't afford a new boat.

Hi all, been trying to suss out what to use to duct the warm air that stays at the roof line leaving the floor cold. I've got a couple of computer fans that draw next to sod all amps and want to utilise them into a warm air set up from the heat above the stove. I'm sure some clever types on here have been playing with this sort of thing so any recommendations or examples out what to use to direct the heat further along and down to floor level. Keep thinking PVC pipes or trunking but I want something more discreet than pipes and clips all over the place. ( also my wood working skills ain't all that !)

If you know anyone local to you with a eu20 it wouldbe sensible to try first. Remember, an eu20 runs at 1600, peaks at 2000. I also have a compact tumble which will run on an eu20 but it is at it's limit ( have to turn off the 30 amp charger ). I actually use two eu20s linked together with Hondas connection lead when doing the laundry, I'm not thrashing them and it's a lot better on the ears! (also cheaper than the next model up, easier to shiftand potential more power if ever needed) Regarding waste water from the washer, just a skin fitting to the outside world in the uk. If you're that worried about detergents, use Eco friendly powders/tablets. ( get a cassette toilet, more pratical than a pump/holding tank set up).

We have the small candy and it runs off the eu20 just fine as long as I am also power something else off of it (charger normally). For some reason it doesn't start the wash program if nowt else is on.(?) can turn the charger of once it gets going before the heating element comes on. Regarding manufacturers advising against using generators, I was under the impression that the eu Hondas produced a more stable wave than the national grid could. ( think I read it on here).

Yes we have an accumulator. Dont know about pump running all the time or cycling. Will check next time the mrs is in. (pump is next to water tank, shower at the other end)

Personally I'd ignore it ! It's only started recently after three years on board. The only thing new is that I've had to change a washer on one of the kitchen taps. Do very occasionally get the pump cut in for no reason. Haven't found any leaks so may still have a tap that drips now and then but not sure which is the culprit.

Might have to be gentle with me as I am pretty clueless about domestic water system. Tank, pump, accumulator, pipes and taps. Should all be pretty basic.(?) So, why do I have a pulsing shower going on. All the other taps seem fine. (except the seagull drinking water tap needing a new filter ). All advice gratefully received.

Are they prone to failure? It has been very windy here bit haven't experienced it blowing out before. Did it yesterday early evening and again this morning. Any experience of this before, anyone?

Usually wear army surplus stuff, gortex trousers and jacket. Wind n waterproof, breathable n cheaper than those big named brands. For winter I have bib n brace, heavy jacket by sundridge (fishing tackle company) not cheap but toasty warm and totally waterproof.

Seriously, it looks as though it has started to melt where it has rubbed on the mooring ring. Neighbour has the same damage from the same ring but not on their stern rope which is on a ring made of stainless steel.

Bought some very expensive rope last year and I've noticed that they "burnt" where they rub on the mooring rings! Am I better off buying cheap rope and replace regularly ? Is there a preferred material more tolerant of this burning wear? Cheers

Oops. Had it on intelligent, however, have done this many times. Back to the shop then it is. Cheers.

Dead ! Doing a wash load (+charger) and it stopped dead during the water heating bit of the cycle (highest output). No warning lights, nowt and doesn't want to restart. Have I killed it and needs to go to the Honda approved resurrection people or is there something simple I can check first ? (oil is ok) Thanks in advance.

You didn't mention when you last changed the oil. Had the same issue once with ours. It was well overdue a change rather than being low, in fact I don't remember its level ever dropping.

Where about in the south east are you ? We have family in Essex so not unrealistic, that seems a reasonable price to me as both me and the mrs would only make a bodge of a DIY attempt.

We have an L shaped seating arrangement in our boat that desperatly needs reupholstering. Any suggestions for sensibly priced suppliers in the east midlands? We are after finished articles as opposed to foam suppliers. Many thanks.

Looks like there will be drinking water at Tyrley at last. Was there this morn'. Probl is they have repositioned the stand pipe to the right of the Elsan. If anyone is watering up they will be preventing boats going through the locks. Don't you just love the management team at BW?

Thanks for all the replies folks. A little off tangent with the mirrors but that is food for thought. Firm I work for sells mirror acrylic sheets at 3mm thick so I may have a play and see what happens. The angled panel I was thinking of doing would be fixed to a lid of a roof box hinged at one end, fixable legs at other. ( we normally moor facing south). My first concern was a substantial size of panel being angled in windy conditions may be a liability to accidental lose. (Our moorings are very exposed). Even if I don't the angle thing, still seems a good way to mount panels.

Thinking about another solar panel before the winter comes. I already have three 68 watt semi flexibles fixed flat, however, the next one I want to be able to angle to an optimum "winter" position. ( the idea is a framed panel this time incorporated as part of a top box lid ). Some where there was a link to a chart that gives this angle in relation to you latitude. Anyone have this? Or would say 28 degree be about right? Thanks.

Is it just me or is bright/signal red a bugger to get a decent finish with. I've tried a few times now and I'm still not happy with my efforts. (Could be that all my paint work aint all that but red just high lights it all).

Bit of a no brainer. Enjoy your boat and new life.

Our boat is poorly insulated (20yr old, rockwool and too much big glass). At 65ft we have two stoves, squirell mid saloon and a small boatmans at the back end of the boat.(not engine room). Both have been on 24/7 lately and we are burning no more than 75kg a week. If it continues to get milder the back stove only goes on of an evening to keep chill out and we'll be back to 50ish kg. Also have an Alde ch set up but that's set up for hot water/bath room rad and not to heat the boat except as a back up.

Our retro fitted cs has the cassette opening under the sink into a cabinet. Definitly narrower than the corridor so I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Might be worth looking at 'edge technology's website as they offer off grid solutions and might give you some ideas of costs involved. tbh, just googling 'off grid power/energy' may well offer you more answers in terms of cost. Bottom line is that the property is rented, it'll be your mondy being invested for potentialy someone elses gain. Also worth bearing in mind is the fact you may need planing permission for solars and wind turbine.

Thanks for that.