Boat Maintenance

[Gary Peacock]

Hi

 

Thanks for your response.

 

The boat was a part build and it came with a RDC which from what I was led to believe is what the builders use for a self certify.

 

At the time of buying i was not aware that they had to proivide a manual, as it was my first boat, hence the reson I have not been too concerned about it since buying the boat 3 months ago, but due to the comments on this forum with regards to it, I have emailed Liverpool Boat company and cc' the Marina on the email asking for more information on the boat.

 

Hopefully I will not have to wait long for a response, although the links and information from the other forum members have been most useful to obtain information.

 

Thanks again

 

 

 

 

Thank you for this information, I am updating the list with all the information so that I can try and keep the boat in tip top condition.

 

Thanks again

 

It sounds like you might have the wrong certificate either that or BW have struck again by not knowing the difference if you have the paper work for a COMPLETED boat then BW will not need a BSS certificate for the first four years to license it.

 

If the boat is not complete then the person at Liverpool Boats whose name is on the certificate would be very silly to put his name to work that hasn't actually being completed because in the event of an incident he his actually legally responsible.

 

You really need to look at the certificate and find out what it is, if it is wrong either accidentally or fraudulently you only have a 12 month window from the date on it to get it legally resolved.

Edited July 17, 2008 by Gary Peacock

[blackrose]

I was missing certain info from my manual, (at least I got one!) but for my LBC sailaway the service sched is...

 

first service at 50 hrs oil and oil/fuel filters

 

then every 250 do oil and oil filter and check for water in the trap.

 

every 500 do oil/fuel filter and oil, gearbox oil, water trap element (anglo welsh do a cheap generic one for 7 quid instead of the 25 quid vetus one) check belts and hoses for wear

 

On dock put some silicone grease in the lip behind the three allen key fixtures on the stern gland (you can do a search for cutless bearing to find out more).

 

Every year change the coolant.

 

Since reading Tony Brooks's info I've taken the glow plugs out once as well to make sure they don't get stuck.

 

Anyone feel free to add anything.

 

Now you tell me! I just bought the rip off Vetus water trap element yesterday!

 

You reckon we need to change the coolant every year? Mine's 3 years old (but only done 300 hours service) and it still looks bright blue. Do I need to change it?

 

I mean how many people ever change the coolant in their cars?

Edited July 17, 2008 by blackrose

[alan_fincher]

Every year change the coolant.

 

Why is this required, please ?

[blackrose]

Catweasel's suggested service schedule looks entirely sensible, except that I'd be checking the alternator drive belts daily, and adjusting as necessary.

 

Daily seems a bit excessive to me.

Edited July 17, 2008 by blackrose

[Robyn]

Daily seems a bit excessive to me.

 

Does anyone know whether it is best to change to daily or change it back to the original list, or does it just go by personal preference as opposed to boat manufacturers recommendations?

 

Thanks

[blackrose]

Does anyone know whether it is best to change to daily or change it back to the original list, or does it just go by personal preference as opposed to boat manufacturers recommendations?

 

Thanks

 

Well we're probably all going to disagree on some things but just check your fanbelt tension and condition as you see fit. If your start battery alternator fanbelt (the one that goes around the waterpump pulley on the engine) snapped, you would get an engine overheating alarm. If you were on a canal you could just stop the engine and drift over to the towpath - or pole the boat in to change it, but if you were on a tidal or fast flowing river it could be much more dodgy and you'd either have to drop an anchor or get a tow, so if I'm ever going onto the tidal Thames I check them very carefully. Look for signs of fraying for example. If the fanbelt that goes around the domestic battery alternator snaps it isn't so critical - it just means your domestic bank won't be charging. I'm assuming you have twin alternators. It's a good idea to carry spares.

Edited July 17, 2008 by blackrose

[alan_fincher]

Does anyone know whether it is best to change to daily or change it back to the original list, or does it just go by personal preference as opposed to boat manufacturers recommendations?

 

Thanks

If you are "exposing" the engine daily to check oil and coolant levels, the likelihood it will be very little extra effort to have a quick look at the fan belt, and to give it a quick deflection to see it doesn't seem loose.

 

The consequences of it breaking half way through a tunnel, or when pushing hard against a river, are ones you are better to avoid, if you can.

[RLWP]

Does anyone know whether it is best to change to daily or change it back to the original list, or does it just go by personal preference as opposed to boat manufacturers recommendations?

 

Thanks

 

Just to give a sense of proportion - when did you last check on the alternator drive belt on your car?

 

 

Richard

[blackrose]

If you are "exposing" the engine daily to check oil and coolant levels, the likelihood it will be very little extra effort to have a quick look at the fan belt, and to give it a quick deflection to see it doesn't seem loose.

 

But I don't do that either! (at least not on a daily basis). I know my engine's not burning any oil or loosing coolant, so as long as I don't see any fluids on the floor down there I just assume it's ok. I guess I'm just a wild and crazy guy!

 

The consequences of it breaking half way through a tunnel, or when pushing hard against a river, are ones you are better to avoid, if you can.

 

On the other hand it could be seen as character building. I had one snap as I came out of Thames Lock onto the tidal and I couldn't even get under the deck as I had a motorbike on top. That was a serious panickola!

Edited July 17, 2008 by blackrose

[alan_fincher]

Just to give a sense of proportion - when did you last check on the alternator drive belt on your car?

 

Richard

A very reasonable point.

 

Although on your car, when you start the engine, the chances are the battery is nigh on fully charged, and the alternator only has to try and keep up with what's being used on an ongoing basis.

 

On a boat people with large power demands may have heavily depleted a battery bank of many hundreds of amp hours, all of which needs replenishing. I'd suggest the boat fan belt(s) may get subjected to greater forces than car ones.

[Robyn]

Can anyone tell me what are the best items to keep as spares. I'm in the RCR, but would prefer some spares in case of emergency instead of waiting for the RCR to come and rescue me.

 

Many thanks

[blackrose]

A very reasonable point.

 

Although on your car, when you start the engine, the chances are the battery is nigh on fully charged, and the alternator only has to try and keep up with what's being used on an ongoing basis.

 

On a boat people with large power demands may have heavily depleted a battery bank of many hundreds of amp hours, all of which needs replenishing. I'd suggest the boat fan belt(s) may get subjected to greater forces than car ones.

 

Does that include the start battery alternator fanbelt?

 

Can anyone tell me what are the best items to keep as spares. I'm in the RCR, but would prefer some spares in case of emergency instead of waiting for the RCR to come and rescue me.

 

Many thanks

 

Fanbelts: they should have numbers on them referring to the thickness & length and if you can get spares from a car place it's cheaper.

Morse cables: estimate the length using a piece of string or rope

Various fuses: check what your main fuses are in terms of physical type and amp ratings & keep some spares

 

Can't really think of anything else but I'm sure others will.

[churchward]

Can anyone tell me what are the best items to keep as spares. I'm in the RCR, but would prefer some spares in case of emergency instead of waiting for the RCR to come and rescue me.

 

Many thanks

 

I can tell you what I keep.

 

A set of Fuel and Oil filters

Fan belts

Control Cables

Air filter

 

Oil/Grease

 

Electrical wire of varying capacity and some crimp on and other connectors

 

I also carry tools for the job eg spanners, screwdrivers, pliers and grips etc.

 

Bulbs for lighting/Tunnel lamp and an inspection lamp (you can get some nice LED rechargable ones these days)

 

set of battery jump leads ( it was useful to connect the bank together to start the engine when the starter battery decided it had enough)

[Robyn]

Thank you all for all your help. I'll be all set for the maintenance the weekend, hopefully the weather will stay nice for me. I will go round the car shops as suggested to see if I can aquire the items cheaper.

 

Thanks again everyone, all your suggestions and help was greatly appreciated.

[Guest]

I can tell you what I keep.

 

A set of Fuel and Oil filters

Fan belts

Control Cables

Air filter

 

Oil/Grease

 

Electrical wire of varying capacity and some crimp on and other connectors

 

I also carry tools for the job eg spanners, screwdrivers, pliers and grips etc.

 

Bulbs for lighting/Tunnel lamp and an inspection lamp (you can get some nice LED rechargable ones these days)

 

set of battery jump leads ( it was useful to connect the bank together to start the engine when the starter battery decided it had enough)

 

Pretty much the same, except I have no control cables, but that is a good idea and has made me think about getting some. I tend to keep the usually clean last removed set of fuel filters as a "get me home" backup set. Usual fluids for engine, battery, etc. Spare fan belt that I tried to use recently and it wouldn't fit

On the subject of alternator drive belt, you get to know it eventually. The rev counter reads low on mine when adjustmentis required, but as others have said a quick flick or twist of the belt with your fingers takes a couple of seconds whilst you are in the engine hole. I replace the belt anually and find after a couple of initial adjustments that it is good for the summer. They do work hard on the Vetus engine though.

[Machpoint005]

On the subject of alternator drive belt, you get to know it eventually. A quick flick or twist of the belt with your fingers takes a couple of seconds whilst you are in the engine hole.

Exactly my thinking - it's a 'while y'r here' job. I start at the front of the engine 'ole and work back, so drive belts are first. And no, I don't check the belt daily on my car, largely because that would require dismantling half the engine air intake (turbodiesel). Not only that, but being overrun with chips, the car will tell me if there's something wrong and then I'll get it to the dealer.

 

These arguments don't apply on the boat, where:

(1) I may well be in the middle of nowhere when something breaks

(2) I can see the bleedin' drive belts just by lifting the deck

(3) As others have said, the alternators work quite a bit harder on a boat.

 

I've never found a low oil level or a loss of coolant either, but I still check them daily.

[alan_fincher]

Does that include the start battery alternator fanbelt?

Sorry - missed that one.

 

No, if you have an alternator dedicated to only charging your starter battery, and not being shared for any other purpose, then it will typically so very little work.

 

If your engine starts easily, it will take very little from the starter battery in terms of amp hours, so there is very little required to put it back. Hence no reason why fan-belt to that should be more stressed than in a vehicle.

 

It's the domestic alternator that will typically work a great deal harder than in a car. That fanbelt is certainly well stressed if charging at high currents.

 

I can't remember, but think you may have a bow-thruster ? If so where does that get it's power from ?

 

 

I'm still interested by the way, if the poster who said coolant should be changed annually can explain why. You wouldn't do it in a car, so why recommend it in a boat

[blackrose]

I can't remember, but think you may have a bow-thruster ? If so where does that get it's power from ?

 

That does come from the start battery alternator via a relay which switches charge from start to BT batteries located at the bow. So I suppose my start/BT alternator is working fairly hard, although I only use the BT in short blips so I think they stay fairly well charged all the time.

[Guest]

Sorry - missed that one.

 

No, if you have an alternator dedicated to only charging your starter battery, and not being shared for any other purpose, then it will typically so very little work.

 

If your engine starts easily, it will take very little from the starter battery in terms of amp hours, so there is very little required to put it back. Hence no reason why fan-belt to that should be more stressed than in a vehicle.

 

It's the domestic alternator that will typically work a great deal harder than in a car. That fanbelt is certainly well stressed if charging at high currents.

 

I can't remember, but think you may have a bow-thruster ? If so where does that get it's power from ?

 

 

I'm still interested by the way, if the poster who said coolant should be changed annually can explain why. You wouldn't do it in a car, so why recommend it in a boat

Interesting one that. Some cars that I have owned have specified a coolant change at a certain mileage; quite a high one if I remember correctly. Every year does seem a bit OTT though. Isn't the change required because of acid build up, or have I been dreaming again? I shall probably change the boat coolant at 1000hrs when I plan to do other major service items.

[Keeping Up]

If your engine and gearbox both leak oil, and the engine leaks coolant, can you get away with changing them less often or even never if the leaks are bad enough?

[Guest]

If your engine and gearbox both leak oil, and the engine leaks coolant, can you get away with changing them less often or even never if the leaks are bad enough?

I had to read that twice before I understood it, mainly because I am drunk. I see what you mean; a total loss system? My dad had a Wolseley car like that. It supped more oil than a two stroke Seagull outboard. I remember that I cried the day he sold the Wolseley, which was embarrasing as I was nearly thirty at the time.

[alan_fincher]

If your engine and gearbox both leak oil, and the engine leaks coolant, can you get away with changing them less often or even never if the leaks are bad enough?

How do you know the oil that's just leaked out is old well used stuff you want to replace ?

 

It might be the lovely new stuff you tipped in yesterday.

 

Cut out the middleman, I say - if it's going to end up in the bilge, tip it in there straight away.

[Scotty]

Nice thread, as I also have an Isuzu 35 which is probably feeling unloved.

 

I have a daft question though, where is the air intake on the Isuzu 35? I can't see any sign of an air filter?

[Guest]

Nice thread, as I also have an Isuzu 35 which is probably feeling unloved.

 

I have a daft question though, where is the air intake on the Isuzu 35? I can't see any sign of an air filter?

Like my Vetus, it may well have no air filter. See that other thread about air filters

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php...c=15778&hl=

Edited July 19, 2008 by Guest

[matthewd]

I thought that an RCD Annex III-a certified sailaway couldn't be resold within 5 years?

 

Matt

 

* edited to include the relevant quote *

 

QUOTE (blackrose @ Jul 17 2008, 12:05 PM) *

The boat may have only been part-fitted but since you bought a brand new engine & gearbox costing four and a half grand plus VAT, then I think it's only reasonable to expect it to come with an owner's manual.

 

 

I think I will go direct to Liverpool Boats and John Thompson, who's name is on the RCD so presume he was the builder possibly!! and ask if he has a copy of the manual/book, explaining that the Marina I purchased the boat from never supplied one.

Edited July 28, 2008 by matthewd