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Kabola Old English. Lowest setting too high.


170968

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Hello have a Kabola Old English stove. It is too hot even on the lowest setting. I have adjusted the low flame screw all the way down and even tried lowering the high flame screw in an attempt to move the "range" down. None of this has made it so it is comfortable for me.

 

This is what the flame looks like on the lowest setting. Does it seem high? On my last stove I managed to get it so it was just wisps of blue flame at the top, which was great.

 

 

Any ideas?

Edited by 170968
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1 hour ago, 170968 said:

Hello have a Kabola Old English stove. It is too hot even on the lowest setting. I have adjusted the low flame screw all the way down and even tried lowering the high flame screw in an attempt to move the "range" down. None of this has made it so it is comfortable for me.

 

This is what the flame looks like on the lowest setting. Does it seem high? On my last stove I managed to get it so it was just wisps of blue flame at the top, which was great.

 

 

Any ideas?

 

That does seem a bit high for the lowest setting.

 

Are you running it on kerosene rather than diesel?

 

Although it burns more cleanly, kerosene is thinner (28 second  oil) than diesel (35 second oil), so more will run into the burner pot for any given regulator setting.

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32 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

Can you physically push the pin down on the oil control valve?

How does the amount of travel vary between high and low setting?

 

Hi Brummie. Sorry but I'm not sure what you mean. Which pin exactly? The one that sets the low flame setting, or something inside the regulator?

 

 

Also, the amount of travel of what?

 

 

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Depending which OCV you have, if the Toby, then adjacent to the control knob, there is a flat plate sticking up through the top . With the control on full, ths can be depressed by about 3/16" inch and on low fire about 1/16". If a BM control, in a similar position to the control knob is a round pin.

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If the regulator is similar to mine, the control valve rotates anti-clockwise to increase the flame. As it rotates it rises on like a cam. The orifice that lets the oil in is a vertical slit - the control valve rises and lets more in, it drops and reduces the flow. If it is blocked from dropping, the slit remains more open.

Have a look at Lockgate Stoves website - there are a few videos on there, one of which shows a regulator being assembled and wot I dun rit above will make sense - but only if your regulator is similar!

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8 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

Depending which OCV you have, if the Toby, then adjacent to the control knob, there is a flat plate sticking up through the top . With the control on full, ths can be depressed by about 3/16" inch and on low fire about 1/16". If a BM control, in a similar position to the control knob is a round pin.

 

Ah I see. My OCV is by OCI (see pdf attached) which doesn't have this.

 

O_C_I_Ships_Valve(stove regulator).pdf

 

 

8 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

If the regulator is similar to mine, the control valve rotates anti-clockwise to increase the flame. As it rotates it rises on like a cam. The orifice that lets the oil in is a vertical slit - the control valve rises and lets more in, it drops and reduces the flow. If it is blocked from dropping, the slit remains more open.

Have a look at Lockgate Stoves website - there are a few videos on there, one of which shows a regulator being assembled and wot I dun rit above will make sense - but only if your regulator is similar!

 

That does sound similar. I'll take it apart again tomorrow and make sure the thing with the slit is going down properly. Thanks for the idea, I'll let you know how it goes.

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40 minutes ago, 170968 said:

 

Ah I see. My OCV is by OCI (see pdf attached) which doesn't have this.

 

O_C_I_Ships_Valve(stove regulator).pdf 256.29 kB · 4 downloads

 

 

 

That does sound similar. I'll take it apart again tomorrow and make sure the thing with the slit is going down properly. Thanks for the idea, I'll let you know how it goes.

You have the only valve without the operating pin. Remove the top and float assembly and remove the metering stem, clean it out and remove any tarnishing, replace it and make sre it rises and falls with pressure and the spring. Ideally, if you have adjusted the setting screws you should check the flow rates with the specifications on the data plate. 

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44 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

Have a look at this - also by Harworth but a slightly different valve - No 8 ‘Let By’ might be your problem

https://www.harworthheating.co.uk/documents/Technical/Oil Controls International/O_C_I_Valve.pdf

 

Quote

The burner will hold a small dirty flame in the oil
inlet pipe to the pot, which will not go out and cause
a heavy carbon build up.

 

I noticed today that there was a huge amount of carbon build up in the pot, especially since Ive hardly used it at all since last looking. This looks promising, thank you!

25 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

You have the only valve without the operating pin. Remove the top and float assembly and remove the metering stem, clean it out and remove any tarnishing, replace it and make sre it rises and falls with pressure and the spring. Ideally, if you have adjusted the setting screws you should check the flow rates with the specifications on the data plate. 

 

I'll do this as well as the above tomorrow. Thank you!

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On 05/11/2022 at 14:34, Mike Tee said:

Have a look at this - also by Harworth but a slightly different valve - No 8 ‘Let By’ might be your problem

https://www.harworthheating.co.uk/documents/Technical/Oil Controls International/O_C_I_Valve.pdf

 

On 05/11/2022 at 14:56, Ex Brummie said:

You have the only valve without the operating pin. Remove the top and float assembly and remove the metering stem, clean it out and remove any tarnishing, replace it and make sre it rises and falls with pressure and the spring. Ideally, if you have adjusted the setting screws you should check the flow rates with the specifications on the data plate. 

 

 

Finally got around to dismantling and cleaning out the regulator. Was quite dirty inside so gave everything a good clean. I'm not sure if it's obvious in the video below, but it is much better. I can actually have the thing on without the doors open.

 

Thanks again!

 

 

 

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That's definitely not what a low setting would look like, but it is burning well. You said in your original post that you had played around with the high and low setting screws - looks like you need to have another go! Well done with dismantling and cleaning the regulator, I know the theory but my motor skills are not up to that, I even managed to mangle the gasket on the filter cover so  have a new one on the way. Can't find a new filter anywhere, so just hope the old one lasts a few more years.

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3 minutes ago, Mike Tee said:

That's definitely not what a low setting would look like, but it is burning well. You said in your original post that you had played around with the high and low setting screws - looks like you need to have another go! Well done with dismantling and cleaning the regulator, I know the theory but my motor skills are not up to that, I even managed to mangle the gasket on the filter cover so  have a new one on the way. Can't find a new filter anywhere, so just hope the old one lasts a few more years.

 

It looks a lot less bright in reality. I think it will do but I'll see what the temperature goes up to. I can't adjust it any more because I ruined the low flame screw.

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Well it definitely is better, but it's still too hot. Also, the flame takes ages to go out, creating lots of soot. Not sure what to do now. I wonder if someone has fiddled with the other screws or something.

 

I suppose I could always replace the regulator with a Toby with the right flow specifications? Would it have the same size connections?

 

Roll on winter.

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52 minutes ago, Jon57 said:

 

Have you tried the website  Bubble supplies.co.uk Toby valves section has  some interesting information. Especially the bit about let by which sound like your problem?

 

Yes I did the maintenance on it which should help with "let by", but it hasn't improved at all in that sense. I couldn't see any problem with the rubber stop either. I wonder if it's being pushed down enough. I'll have to dismantle it again sometime and see if I can work out how it all works.

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1 hour ago, 170968 said:

Well it definitely is better, but it's still too hot. Also, the flame takes ages to go out, creating lots of soot. Not sure what to do now. I wonder if someone has fiddled with the other screws or something.

 

I suppose I could always replace the regulator with a Toby with the right flow specifications? Would it have the same size connections?

 

Roll on winter.

1410_900x900_frit_115931652.jpg

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