LadyG Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it? Thanks in anticipation. Do I need brackets welded to hull? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murflynn Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 18 minutes ago, LadyG said: I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it? Thanks in anticipation. Do I need brackets welded to hull? phenolic ply is birch ply with a resin coating. you can screw and glue hardwood bearers to the hull, bolt on steel brackets or weld steel brackets ................................. 'sup to u. your question is similar to 'how long is a piece of string?' how would they do it in Kansas? Edited July 6, 2020 by Murflynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 16 minutes ago, LadyG said: I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it? Thanks in anticipation. Do I need brackets welded to hull? For something like that stick wooden batton frames to the steel hullwith a grab adhesive like Gripfill. 17 minutes ago, LadyG said: I am thinking about using 12/18mm phenol board (birch ply?) to construct a step or seating, doubling as cover for coal and a few logs, how do I go about it? Thanks in anticipation. Do I need brackets welded to hull? teels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 6 minutes ago, bizzard said: For something like that stick wooden batton frames to the steel hullwith a grab adhesive like Gripfill. Don't use Gripfill, it's too brittle for boats. Use Stixall from Toolstation or Marineflex Also resist the temptation to drill or screw anything into your gas locker bulkhead as some examiners may see this as a breach of its gas-tight integrity even if you seal it with an approved sealant. Edited July 6, 2020 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 2 minutes ago, blackrose said: Don't use Gripfill, it's too brittle for boats. Use Stixall from Toolstation or Marineflex Resist the temptation to drill or screw anything into your gas locker bulkhead as some examiners may see this as a breach of it's gas-tight integrity even if you seal it with an approved sealant. I stuck two battons for a shelf in a steel privvy, it still had the toilet roll holder in it. I stood in it holding both battons in place for 5 minutes and then put a plank across. This was about 15 years ago, very heavy engine parts on the shelf, hasn't fallen down yet. Stixall, Sikaflex, Marine flex is good though, as is Gorilla glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 10 minutes ago, blackrose said: Don't use Gripfill, it's too brittle for boats. Use Stixall from Toolstation or Marineflex Also resist the temptation to drill or screw anything into your gas locker bulkhead as some examiners may see this as a breach of its gas-tight integrity even if you seal it with an approved sealant. It was a hammer and chisel job to remove the wood I stuck to the steel. split the wood away and then work down to the glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 Also a bloke here a few years ago fitted out a L/Pool boats narrowboat. He was a builder and purloined Gripfill from his firm for nothing. He litterally stuck the whole inside together with it, and stuck the chimney collar on with it. He must have had over 50 or 60 empty tubes left over. As far as I know it's still all holding together. I was expecting all the interior to open up like a blooming tulip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 If you well deck is not self draining but as is now common goes almost down to the base plate do not drill holes through from the inside to bolt the timbers supports 5 minutes ago, bizzard said: Also a bloke here a few years ago fitted out a L/Pool boats narrowboat. He was a builder and purloined Gripfill from his firm for nothing. He litterally stuck the whole inside together with it, and stuck the chimney collar on with it. He must have had over 50 or 60 empty tubes left over. As far as I know it's still all holding together. I was expecting all the interior to open up like a blooming tulip. I know a chap who held his internal joinery together with one of those glue heat gun things, with like little sticks of plastic that go through them and comes out stick, drys in seconds, that didn't work to well midsummer and needed some remedial work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 9 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said: If you well deck is not self draining but as is now common goes almost down to the base plate do not drill holes through from the inside to bolt the timbers supports I know a chap who held his internal joinery together with one of those glue heat gun things, with like little sticks of plastic that go through them and comes out stick, drys in seconds, that didn't work to well midsummer and needed some remedial work This would be the trouble with that stuff. Everything could suddenly all spring violently apart trapping the owner in his chair watching telly. Trapped like in a Crocodlies mouth by backwards slanting teeth, never to escape and perish. Edited July 6, 2020 by bizzard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 29 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said: It was a hammer and chisel job to remove the wood I stuck to the steel. split the wood away and then work down to the glue. But had the vibrations and resonance been in that area it may have been a different story. Within a system of materials it's extremely difficult to know where those areas of vibration will be focused. I knew a bloke who stuck battens up with Pinkgrip and some fell off. Edited July 6, 2020 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 I remember the song. Beach Boys, Good Vibrations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 26 minutes ago, bizzard said: Also a bloke here a few years ago fitted out a L/Pool boats narrowboat. He was a builder and purloined Gripfill from his firm for nothing. He litterally stuck the whole inside together with it, and stuck the chimney collar on with it. He must have had over 50 or 60 empty tubes left over. As far as I know it's still all holding together. I was expecting all the interior to open up like a blooming tulip. So in other words you knew a bloke who did it all wrong but got away with it. Ok, but bad practice is not what we should be recommending here surely? Ultimately people can do what they want with their own boats. Carry on by all means... Edited July 6, 2020 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 Just now, blackrose said: So in other words you knew a bloke who did it all wrong but got away with it. Ok, but that's not what we should be recommending surely? He did. He was chucking out empty Gripfill tubes into a big box on the bank like spent matchsticks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 OK, I have Sticksall, I need some tanalised wood for legs, maybe 2x1 planed. , do I curve the ends to allow doors to swing open? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 9 minutes ago, LadyG said: do I curve the ends to allow doors to swing open? Do you want the doors to swing open ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 10 minutes ago, LadyG said: OK, I have Sticksall, I need some tanalised wood for legs, maybe 2x1 planed. , do I curve the ends to allow doors to swing open? No, use Stixall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted July 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 36 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said: Do you want the doors to swing open ? what is best? If I get fancy oak doors I want to show them off. but safest to have seating full length aha, seat 10 inches wide , doors open fully. Edited July 6, 2020 by LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted August 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2020 (edited) UPDATE Thorne Boat Services did the job, involved welding brackets and angle iron support under phenol ply, curved, epoxied edges, very smart, very strong. One door swings back flat, one does not, due to door lip, usual boaty compromise. I will be having rear doors lined in same [brown] board. Edited August 9, 2020 by LadyG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now