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Found 10 results

  1. Hi, A little one for outside the box thinkers please. I realise a bath on a boat is a ridiculously indulgent waste of water. I also realise the folly of putting a bath on a boat in terms of the space it consumes. I am installing a full sized corner bath with a capacity of around 200L on Helena during a major refit. I am trying to think of ways to reliably, safely and "legally"(in terms of the BSS) produce enough hot water to fill the bath. Currently I am considering fitting an auxiliary water tank of around the same capacity of the bath to extend our tank capacity enough to allow for it without affecting our bunkering routine too much. and I am considering ways of heating this "buffer" tank before using it to bathe. A few little boaty tech facts about Helena... I have a large (around 700L) water tank, my hot water cylinder is a standard horizontal calorifier, can't remember the capacity, not much! It is currently heated either by a 1kw immersion heater (rarely), the webasto water heater (usually) or the engine. Fairly conventional stuff with exception to the cold storage tank. If i were to sneak in a 250L plastic tank under the new wardrobe floor I could theoretically heat the water that is in it and specifically use it exclusively for our bath. I would obviously have to have it open vented, but I think I could easily add a balance pipe to the main tank to fill it when we bunker, and gravity would refill it as we use it. I am considering a second hand second webasto to this end. My calculations seem to suggest a 5kw heater will take approximately an hour to produce a 30c rise in that kinda volume of water. Other things I have considered are of course an instantaneous gas heater (an 11L morco would only take 20m to fill the bath directly fed with "cold"water, but at what cost in terms of gas) which is certainly still an option. If I choose to heat the tank of water rather than the instantaneous option of course the tank would be insulated and in order to stop convection mixing the water into the main tank a one way valve could be fitted on the fill (necessary?) I have also considered the bonus that, if the webasto/tank option is viable I can install some evacuated tube solar hot water on the roof of the boat and pre-warm the tank or even heat it in summer, via a plate heat exchanger. I realise if I do either of these things there will have to be a way of getting the tank to above 65c weekly to remove the risk of legionnaires. Please understand that I am well aware of the folly of the above, please keep the discussion based expanding on my thoughts and let me know your thoughts on where I would stand with the BSS compliance. Thanks in advance, Bex
  2. A public consultation on a proposal to introduce mandatory new Boat Safety Scheme (BSS) Requirements for carbon monoxide (CO) alarms on boats opens today Friday 17 August and will run to Friday 9 November 2018. The Boat Safety Scheme (BSS) is running a public consultation on proposals that have the full support of its stakeholder and management committees. It is proposed to introduce a mandatory new BSS Requirement for suitable carbon monoxide (CO) alarms in good condition and in suitable locations on all classes of boat with accommodation spaces. The changes affect all classes of BSS examination, private boats, boats used for hire and other non-private boat classes. The BSS proposals are presented as both necessary and proportionate risk controls and your comments upon them are welcomed. The consultation is open until 16:30 on Friday 9 November 2018. The BSS will also be taking the opportunity to seek the respondent’s views on the future possibility of introducing similar checks concerning smoke alarms for private boats. Please share news of the consultation https://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/abo…/co-alarm-consultation/
  3. ... and I passed! Well, the boat passed. I just sat there all nervous. BIG THANKS to everyone here who's given me advice over the past year. Without you guys, I'd probably have failed miserably! I feel like a school kid waiting for exam results. I'll be chasing the postie for the next week to get my first ever BSS certificate. Might even frame it.
  4. We're due a BSS inspection this month and I had a quick look at our fire extinguishers. They have a date of manufacture stamped on them but nothing else I could see that would show whether they would still be effective apart from the little (pressure?) gauge. Is this all that's required?
  5. Hi everyone I am about to install a stove on my new boat after surviving this winter with only radiators! I'm very tight on cash hence the late instillation and I'm hoping to construct the hearth myself but I want to ensure it is going to be safe not just for myself but for any potential future owner. I am struggling a bit with converting the instructions in the manual to what is appropriate in a boat setting. Hoping there are some informed people here that might be able to help. This is the manual for my stove. Although this manual is a newer version. My stove is 9 yrs old and the old manual has this number DIN EN 13240 . The stove also has a CE marking. http://www.hetas.co.uk/wp-content/mediauploads/Franco-Belge-Monaco-Installation-Operating-Instructions.pdf However,following the instillation instructions in the manual seems to mean we will need a constructional hearth measuring 125mm thick with a 50mm air gap, I've read in other posts that stoves with a CE marking only need a 12mm hearth. Is this correct? If not, how have people tackled the above requirement? I also have questions about the size of the hearth. The manual recommends 300mm in front of the stove or 225 if the stove is not to be operated as an open fire. This means the total size of my hearth is to be about 860mm wide, and 730 deep. Seems huge compared to all the other hearths I've seen on boats. I am aware that this distance can be reduced if the hearth is installed with a high 'lip' is there any guidance on how much the size of the hearth can be reduced by with a lip and how high the lip should be? Thanks everyone
  6. The BSS guidance on CO alarms says, "choose a unit showing it was tested to BS EN 50291-2 and suitable for boat use". Seems that little "and" is important; I had originally read that as meaning that EN 50291-2 indicated that an alarm was suitable for boats, but it seems that an alarm should be EN 50291-2 and specifically rated as suitable for boats. Not all are, this is from the manual for a EN 50291-2 alarm I have at home.
  7. Hi All, I'm a relative newbie to narrowboating (one year living aboard at Peartree Bridge Marina in Milton Keynes, and cruising since last July) , and a complete DIY ninnie, and am seeking some advice regarding my Morso Squirrel back boiler. I love the stove, and relied on it throughout my first winter in the marina, but the back boiler part, even when it was working, was disappointing at best. It allegedly drove two small rads in the bathroom and bedroom, at the opposite end of my 57 foot boat, but even when it was working great, the results in the radiators were disappointing. I tried bleeding them, think I succeeded, but they still stayed tepid at best, even with a roaring fire going in the saloon. Also, the previous owners had the water circulated by a mains operated pump. That was fine when I was Marina bound, but as I am cruising away from marinas now, I needed this replacing with a 12 volt pump, which I had done whilst in MK as part of a general refit of the boat for it's new post Marina life. Since the replacement, the thing has never worked properly: either the pump speed has to be set so high it is screaming very loudly, or the water is pushed round so sluggishly that the system starts - 'kettling' - is that the word? - Making scary 'bags of hammers' noises at the stove, anyway, like it's about to explode, whilst vomiting central heating fluid from the expansion tank all over the engine room. So scary is all this in fact, that I've decided I can't risk using the stove at all til this problem gets fixed. I've found it impossible to find anyone competent to sort it out in my new area of operations around Burnley, Lancashire, on the Leeds and Liverpool, and with money now being very tight, I thought the simplest thing to do in any case would be to de-commission the back boiler part myself, reversibly, in place. What I had in mind was emptying the central heating system (though I don't know how to do that either), leaving the input and output valves to the boiler open, and simply cut the copper pipes to them, taking out about an inch, and capping off the pipes, so I can just use the stove without fear of explosion or central heating fluid disasters. My thinking is that if I leave the valves on the Squirrel open and the stove side pipes of the boiler uncapped, air can expand and contract safely through the boiler during use, and I can just use the stove as if it had no back boiler. That way, any future owner who wants to make use of the rads can simply hook up the pipes again, and do battle with the pump. Is this a safe plan? Will the stove operate safely without fluid in the back boiler? Will the boat be okay for the BSS exam if I do this? What should I think about regarding making sure the operation is reversible? All advice appreciated. Alexa
  8. Hi all, I am completely new to the idea of boating and have been thinking for some time about buying a canal boat as a live aboard. An offer has come up on a fairly old 43 foot alvechurch boat with a steel hull, lots of rust and pitting around gunnels and stern, the hull has had some replating (this is somewhat reflected in the price) and if I were to buy it I would commision a survey. However the inside is very tatty and needs alot of work doing, including the stove installing at the other end of the boat as it has been removed from one end and replaced with a cupboard. This is where the confusion with the safety certificate comes in. I was wondering if it was legal and upstanding to get the boat safety certificate done before re-installing the stove or whether I would have to do this before inviting a BSS examiner on. This is important as the licsence runs out on the boat shortly and obviously no BSS certificate=no license which means me not being able to move the boat to a marina, drydock etc for completing the rest of the work. The guy who is selling it is a friend of a friend and seems a really sound guy but he does want a bit more than I was intending to pay so therefore the certificate and license situation could sway me in one direction or the other in terms of time and money, any help would be fantastic, thanks,
  9. My high and low level ventilation meets BSS recommended levels, but the present double digit minus temperatures have really highlighted an issue we've so far just lived with. The rear end vent comes into the trad back end engine/control space through 2 gunwale level vents, one to port under the boards into the engine 'ole (where the Eberspacher is sited, with a snorkel on its air intake direct to the vent) and one to starboard into the stairwell, although the two spaces are really one and the same with boxing in but also an access gap. There's also a fair bit of vent provided by unsealed doors out to the steerer's step. The vent from there into the bedroom is facilitated by purpose built gaps over and under the bedroom rear door. The top gap is fine but there is a cutting draught under the door. Whilst I don't wish to simply block it off and potentially cause a safety issue, it would be nicer if it wasn't quite so much like a tube leading directly to the Russian steppes! The stove, incidentally, is at the very opposite end of the 57' boat and has plenty of high and low level vent around it. So, with air breathing engine and appliances being supplied with air well outside of the aft bedroom, do the panel think I need to continue to haemorrhage brownie points by telling the missus to man up, or is possible to safely improve the icy blast issue? Thanks.
  10. Hi All, Has anyone used this type of pigtail to save using a spanner ? Thanks John
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