Ark Right

Hi, assume you mean a BSS, if this is a new boat being fitted out you should be adhering to the RCD directive surely? Cheers A edited to say Recreational Craft Directive, so not to confuse Op with electrical Rcd

Read his post again , not what he is saying!

So Mastervolt Inverters etc are non compliant, have you mentioned this to them.?

Hi, I would suggest using an "active usb cable" They compensate for losses in long usb cables. Linky Cheers A

Hi , use speed clamps on the rubber hoses near to the heater to minimise coolant loss. When refitted be sure to open the bleed valve on the top of the heater to expel any air. Top any losses with 50% solution of antifreeze. Cheers A

Neat but crap, battery isolators / fuses etc. in the "gassing zone" not good, and just sheer laziness not to site them somewhere properly.

I'd use Owatrol oil added to undercoat up to 25% vol to help make the paint rust inhibiting. Owatrol Cheers A

That sounds terrific, any chance of some engineering / working drawings to help me get the install just right? Cheers A

He is havin a larf int he, under 20 quid an hour , responsible for the full craft, passengers and crew. These marketing guys have salaries like the bankers, suppose they see boat "DRIVERS" as unskilled oinks.

Hi , it's possible the panel has been fitted in warmer weather with no clearance/tolerance, the colder weather causes the shell to contract and squeeze the panel out. Cheers A

Hi, Yes and No Cheers A

Yep Tony is bang on with the solution, relays etc are total nonsense. The use of 10mm cable for a water pump is also nonsense and the OP has introduced problems for himself. The OP mentions 6mm for his lighting circuits, I bet he is then going to install Smd's / Led's drawing diddly. Unless of course the boat is 250ft long! Cheers A

I agree with Robbo No need for a second calorifier, if problems were encountered with bleeding/ air locks etc which I doubt, then fitting an auto bleed valve at the calorifier will solve that problem. In the unlikely case of not enough flow then fitting a circulating pump which runs only when the engine is running is a further solution. All far cheaper and less complicated than a second calorifier. Cheers A

Hi 14 skipper, A pound to a pinch of..... your new prv is smaller than the previous one. Some suppliers try to send smaller prv's with calorifiers thinking its going to stop them bursting on over pressure. Not true when they jam up with crud, the rating of the prv makes no difference . They are available in many pressures. Cheers A

Well Rupert, your post could go one way or the other as I see it. Either way I have a huge bucket of popcorn at the ready

Hi David one of these will do the job for you, or similar Cheers A

Hi, are you just after getting a status on your marine start battery? I'd be very interested to know if the tester in question can provide results for marine leisure batteries, especially when you have to enter CCA details. Cheers A

Hi Jim, the link shows a strap for holding vee belt pulleys, we are talking poly vee pulleys here. I think the air or electric impact wrench as the OP mentioned is the way to remove these pulleys. Cheers A

Your assumption is correct Richard, it shows a complete lack of understanding. Glad your boat is constructed differently. Regards A

I wouldn't be at all surprised, when your builder regularly installs Inverters / Combi's in the same compartment as the batteries !!

Hi Nick , I think some more info will be required, i.e. Engine make and size ? Does the existing alternator run a tacho ? My initial thought is a 150 amp alternator seems a bit on the large size for a single v belt pulley ( if indeed that is my correct interpretation of your post). A poly vee belt and pulley system would be more suitable, the downside of course is you are into changing pulleys on the engine, which may negate any cost saving . I will stand to be corrected in due course no doubt. Cheers A

Hi, as above its fine to run with calorifier drained. Fin rads work really well as long as they are getting the hot water through them, Is it possible the feed to the calorifier is causing a short circuit, starving the fin rads of heat? Fin rads give off heat along their length, so instead of feeling the concentrated heat from say a 600mm radiator you feel the same heat output over a wider area. Providing the right amount of fin rads are fitted for the heat requirement of your boat you should be toasty. Also bear in mind that arriving at a stone cold boat and turning on the heating, it is going to take a bit longer to reach temperature than if you had been on there for a few days. Cheers A

Continuous Cruiser and considered a "freeloader" where on earth did you get that notion from? Deck chair and Mega bag of Pop Corn at the ready

Hi Darren, Drop testers are an aid for measuring the capacity available from cranking batteries (starter batteries) which are designed for short sharp bursts of power. A leisure battery is designed for slow discharge over a long period, a Drop Tester puts a high load (depending on size of the tester) direct to the battery, not something you would want to do to a leisure battery. Erm hope that makes sense Cheers A

Hi, the decimal point is definitely in the wrong place, you should be looking for around 1.28 SG when charged. Cheers A