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Ark Right

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Everything posted by Ark Right

  1. Hi Have you connected the neutral terminal to the earth terminal inside the unit? • Connect both the earth (PE/GND) and the neutral (N) of the AC output of the inverter to the central grounding point (Taken from the Mastervolt manual) A
  2. Hi and welcome to the forum Are you sure its just not you that doesn't want him to have one night stands Joking apart, can't he find someone where he works ? best of luck A
  3. Sorry my fault , welcome to the forum Jay I have not labelled you as total crap, just some of the points in your post, It is all too easy to give advice without knowledge to back it up. As your subsequent apologies show A for Ark Right
  4. Hi Up The Creek Sorry I missed you are new to the forum, welcome. Your initial responses don't seem very helpful so far, i.e solicitor etc There are some very knowledgeable and helpful people on this forum so don't let the minority inane on here put you off. A
  5. PLEASE PLEASE GIBBO all is forgiven come back and bring some sense to this mayhem! A
  6. Jay The highlighted bits are just a couple of points in your post which are total crap there are many others I can't be bothered to mention. You have not the 1st clue of basic battery systems and even less of the OP's problem A
  7. Hi, cast iron can certainly be welded. A mate of mine had a jobbing foundry and he used special rods in an arc weld set up to remove minor imperfections. Things have moved on since then and there are now specialist firms that can successfully weld cast iron to make repairs. A
  8. Nonsense Arthur, sorry, The "Travel Power" will do the job without doubt and will go on doing it without killing batteries. After the install I would seriously recommend an upgrade to a washer /drier which will be coped with easily. A
  9. Hi Tony While you are in there disconnecting, unplug the battery temperature sensor. Apparently when they go Awol they can cause all sorts of mayhem. If you have sense wires connected, dis them too. A
  10. Of course I'm right, that's why I posted THE solution to the problem, BTW you are wrong, wellies or no wellies sorry A
  11. All very humorous you lot, unless you are of course the OP's friend in need of some constructive advice. The problem without a doubt is that the toilet is connected incorrectly. The OP suggests it is connected to the pump out line via a tee. This is wrong. It should have its own connection to the top of the tank. The pump out connection on a waste tank has a dip pipe that goes almost to the bottom of the tank. The way the toilet is connected the waste has to pass through the small gap between the dip pipe and the bottom of the tank and this can easily become blocked. A pump out with lots of reverse flushing down the pump out fitting will hopefully clear the problem. the only way to prevent re-occurrence will be to modify the toiletr discharge pipework. A
  12. I would recommend you use one of these Switch Its the correct bit you are looking for and is well made by an established company. I have no connection with this company , other than electrical ones when I use their kit A
  13. There are safe moorings just after the Holly Bush Inn at Denford, usually with an abundance of long term continuous moorers aiding the security . Its a 15 min walk to the bus stop to get into Hanley bus station. Hope this helps A
  14. Imponderable, oh no its not.... we are talking Mastervolt kit here. Reassuringly expensive and does a sterling job only lots lots better! A
  15. Hi, the seals on a lot of hopper opening portholes are flat single sided foam tape that is formed around the circular shape of the porthole. Pretty much the same stuff that Midland Chandlers sell as 'self adhesive window tape' which is usually used for the application you are Not asking for. Hope this helps A
  16. Hi Dean Six and a half hours survey, unless your boat is a total rust bucket, which it didn't seem to be when I saw it last year in Castlefield, then it smacks of the surveyor being paid by the hour and making it the most of it ! Does this mean you are leaving boating? A
  17. And more importantly via a fuse of the correct type and rating ETA in total agreement with the above post A
  18. Hi, the flow rates at the 5 settings are Here Hope this helps A
  19. Hi Les Lack of replies , so here I am A bit more info is required, you have two battery banks, do you have an alternator for each one? If you have an alternator for the cabin batteries and one for the start battery then a Smartbank may be of little use. IMO a Smartgauge is a great bit of kit. If you buy one it needs to be installed as the instructions , I.E. using old wiring is not an option. Hope this goes some way to answering your query A
  20. Hi Richard Do you have any evidence of the above statement? A
  21. I would suggest you wire it up as per the drawing. I'm pretty sure the B2 connection on the start battery will sense at which point to switch the SB relay so would be best at the actual battery. Diagram A
  22. There are four holes required 1x 30mm for the drive, 2x 9mm for the fixing bolts and 1x 9mm for the oil filler point. There is no locating pin as such. A
  23. No just happened to call in at Macclesfield Marina when they were filming A
  24. I'm not going to be very popular for this reply knowing you are are a very respected contributor, but hey ho some things need to be said. Ally, if I was going to buy a boat from you I would expect, no absolutely require, you to know the answer to this question. How could I have confidence in your teams technical abilities to design a boat that will function correctly for me if you don't understand the fundamentals of boat systems Sorry but it is really basic get it right stuff you are asking here A
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