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nb Innisfree

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Everything posted by nb Innisfree

  1. There's no source of ignition in it's own dedicated locker, unlike the engine room. A fairly minor engine fire could turn into an inferno if a can of petrol is present.
  2. Just make sure you don't put too much fuel in, run it dry then stick it in the engine bay.
  3. Not really, preferred method if available would be to tie springs at deck level but we find that using centre lines back to the mooring points does reduce rocking quite a bit as the pull is more longitudinal than lateral. In fact we find the lateral pull at deck level on a 90deg mooring is much higher.
  4. Agreed, we don't notice any difference between inwards or outwards tying, if we are forced to tie at right angles we then use centrelines backwards and forwards as springs to minimise any surging and keep rocking to a minimum.
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  7. I think I read somewhere that a modest meal cooked on an induction hob uses somewhere in the region of 70+ ah @ 12v, quite a chunk, maybe ok if your alternator is big enough to keep up but would need to be a 200 amp job at least I should think, we have an equivalent 24v 100amp and only just keeps up with the washing machine which uses a similar amount of ah. A microwave is more practical if it's used sparingly in short bursts making it usable without the engine running but when it comes to cooking gas is king.
  8. We don't burn wood but in my hedgecutting and heavy pruning experience you can't beat something like this cuts on both strokes and is a serious bit of kit IMO. ETA: This example is designed for fixing to a pole but ones with a proper handle are available.
  9. After fitting a steering knob on our nb steering wheel I then never used the wheel rim instead just relying on the knob so I replaced the wheel with a simple crank and with having only 2.5 turns lock to lock I found an indicator to be unnecessary.
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  11. This was our solution during DIY fitout. To convert to a bed the table end near the wall has two keyhole slots which can be lifted out and lowered to seat level resting on ledges, other end is then lowered by bending outwards a short length of 18mm ply which allows a locking peg to exit a hole in a corresponding length of ply which is fixed to the table which then lowers into a 12" deep recess alongside the underfloor water tank. Simple, cheap and very handy and effective. Sorry about the pic quality, unfortunately it's the only one we have and we are presently away from the boat.
  12. Adding 2 stroke oil to diesel seems to be popular in some motoring forums, we have been using it in our mk5 Ford Transit campervan at a rate of 200:1 for the last 4 or 5 tankfuls and have noticed an improvement in running and a small improvement in mpg, in any case the added protection it gives the injector pump is worth the small extra expense IMO.
  13. I did the frame myself and had it covered by a one man floating canopy maker, he took great care as he was in unknown territory and we both accepted it might not work, in the event there were no worries as it is completely watertight. I
  14. That's what put me off so I designed my own, works well and is very convenient.
  15. I always assumed the wharf is on the left and apart from the p/o there is room for one nb behind the trip boat. Room for another further down by the car park but I don't think that is classed as the wharf?
  16. As blodger says we have a later incarnation of LPWS4 (40bhp @3000rpm) Done about 3k hours so far and runs superbly, totally smoke free and we always change oil (Lister Petter 10/40)& filter at 100 hrs or so. Hydraulic valve lifters so no adjustment of valve clearances needed, I think most of the problems associated with these engines is due to long running at tickover, if they have been run in correctly then bore glaze shouldn't be an issue provided they are given a thorough thrashing occasionally when up to working temp, in fact like most modern engines they need loading somewhat from cold to shorten warm up time. Only slight downsides are they sound a bit more 'diesely' than most(still sound nice to me though!) and have a fairly fast tickover compared to most equivalent engines but if the prop is sized correctly you don't really notice.
  17. You don't say what your max engine speed is, but on our original engine it ran at 2000rpm max with a 2:1 box and Crowther made us a superb 17" high BAR prop (17x 14 and about 75%), no hint of cavitation and excellent thrust in forward and reverse and allowed the engine to achieve slightly under full revs. When this engine let us down after a short time (long story) we changed to a 3000rpm engine which would have been ideal with a 3:1 box but we opted instead for the cheaper option of a reprofiled prop (still 17"), I have often wished we had used a 3:1 instead and left our perfect prop alone.
  18. We used Dulux Trade Flat Matt straight on to ply, it's washable and has a high pigment content, in fact we just put one temporary coat on and five years later it's still going strong. Bit pricey though but Dulux will mix it to any colour in their extensive range. ETA. This is a water based paint.
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  21. Or try inserting a polystyrene cup with the bottom cut off.
  22. I think that all PVC cable insulation produced during the last 20 years has been improved to prevent reaction with polystyrene? Though I am not able to verify this.
  23. IMO it's el cheapo bad practice not to run cabling in a dedicated trunking no matter what type of inslation.
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