Eeyore

If you go to the HC Cargo website download section you will find two very useful documents. The "workshop consumables and tools" has relays, and clearly marks their mini relays as type A or B i.e. the No 30 & 86 terminals are transposed. The strange one may be the 70amp high performance mini relay, it has 2 x 6.3 mm spades and 2 x 9 mm spades. The "electrical parts and engine management" is also worth a look. They do list some Mitsubishi glow plugs, but use the "MD" prefixed series of part numbers - sorry I don't have the part number in that format. There is also an online version of the Durite catalogue, with some useful stuff. WARNING: This is serious parts porn!!!

Interesting how apparently "under engineered" things can work reliably for so long! My Mitsubishi S4L2 (from the USA) is factory fitted with something similar to the Cargo ( www.hc-cargo.com ) 235442 remote starter solenoid. It is mounted on a bracket above the bell housing, and uses very short runs of #10 AWG (5.26 sq mm) cable from the main terminal on the starter via the solenoid to the glow plugs, so 6 sq mm cable will do the job. Will you be adding the upgrade to your Blog?

Just to confirm Alans post. 32A66-03100 is the Mitsubishi part number for glow plugs used on the S4L base engine. (Mitsubishi call them glow plugs) The specified torque for refitting the glow plugs is 1.75 +/-0.25 kgf-m (12.7 =/-1.8 lbf-ft) (17.2 +/-2.5 N-m) The connection plate which joins all the plugs is 31A66-04101 (just in case!) Diamond Diesels are the UK importer and distributor for Mitsubishi industrial diesels, they or your local plant hire/repairers should be able to supply any parts for Mitsubishi based products.

Sounds like the standard test to me ;-)

Good point.

Hi Mango It is possible for what you said to happen. All pre engaged starters need the pinion to rotate in order to ensure they engage with the ring gear on the flywheel. There are many variations in actual construction, but is commonly achieved by feeding the main motor in some way from the solenoid supply. With the battery lead off the motor would stall as it engaged, the current demand would rise, and the 10 amp fuse would blow. Regards Steve (Eeyore) Ha - posted just as an expert came on the scene. Good evening Sir Nibble :-)

Hi Tinkerbell Interesting wording. All of the above posts, plus: Ask nearby boaters which network works best in your area. Take the iPad to the mobile phone shop of the network with the best signal in your area. Based on your wording I would ask the following - "Does this iPad accept a sim card, or do I need to buy a mifi device to get internet access when out and about." Regards Steve (Eeyore)

Those little relays work very hard for a living. At that age it's probably worth checking the socket and fitting a new relay, even if the glow plugs prove to be at fault. You probably already know that the relay comes in two versions; the pins are all in the same place but their numbering/internal connections are different. Hopefully that's all it will need.

Ed at Four counties marine does a 110amp prestolite for his Isuzu conversions; which might be compatable.You could just plonk it on the counter at your local reconditioners and see what they can offer. Alternatively something commonly used by other marinisers might be a way forward; the one that springs to mind is the Iskra 100amp unit as found on many Beta engines. The lower alternator mounting on Shire engine is usualy easy to modify if needed, with a selection of mounting holes on the engine rail.

Hello Bill One thing of interest is that Beta introduced surge protection between pins 1&2 and 2&3 of the oil and temperature gauges from 2011. This appears as a note on the wiring diagram for the 2C panel as shown at the back of the owners manuals. I think that a conversation with Beta technical would be beneficial. My limited experience with these gauges suggests that they have quite a low tolerance for loose and corroded terminals. It should say in the instructions to never be unplugged and reconnected whilst live; as at least one well meaning owner has done this inadvertently whilst doing general checks - bye bye gauge! Steve (eeyore) Edited to add : just spotted your occupation, so most will be obvious to you, but still hopefully helpful to others.

Will be fine as long as it has a well matched propeller. A quick ( and dirty ) check is to compare max revs out of gear to max revs in gear. Typically 3000 rpm out of gear and 2700 - 2800 in gear would be about right for a Beta 38. (2700rpm out of gear and 2400- 2500 in gear for a Beta 37)The 4 cylinder 1500cc Beta 38 is very common and well regarded. The 3 cylinder 1700cc Beta 37 is less common, and only produced for a short while. As with most Beta models it is based on a reliable Kubota base engine, but can suffer vibration issues if not well installed.

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I think this is spillage from a different thread ;-)(And it's too far from the canal side for self pump out)

A few minor updates/confirmations.Clifford (my local) 11:00 on Sunday, 11:30 Monday to Thursday, 12:00 Friday & Saturday. 6 "real ales" and good food. Lounge and public bars knocked into one room; there is a bar in the dinning room. Fox and Hounds closed, some rumours of reopening; but seems unlikely. Great Haywood Sports and Social club 1 or 2 "real ales" usually 11:00, but later on Saturday. Red Lion, not been in recently, so probably unchanged. Lamb and Flag recently had "for sale" signs up again, so pot luck as to whether it's open or not. The fish & chip shop/cafe at Milford was closed when I passed recently. Barley Mow & Wimpy bar still going strong. Milford is best accessed by mooring above Tixal lock.

Hi BSPThese sound like the cables are held in by screws, not unlike a large "chocolate block" type connector; not sure if they are best suited to this application. If you follow the ebay link from an earlier post it will take you to an item listed by Acorn chandlery, click the link to their ebay store and search for bus bar. You should see a couple of "blue sea" bus bars which will accept cables with ring terminals. I would have expected to see one cable from gearbox to the metal of the engine bed, one cable from gearbox to battery negative and everything else attached at the battery negative (or a bus bar connected to battery negative) Steve (Eeyore)

Should be fine, the 70 amp A127 is used on Lister Canalstar engines with a 4PK belt, so 50% extra on the width (albeit with slightly less arc of contact) will be more than enough.Steve (Eeyore)

Ok, so based on the KISS principle how does the following sound (it's just a suggestion )Fit the Beta crank and water pump pulleys; then purchase a 48 mm 6PK pulley for your existing alternator (I would suggest one with a flat back to allow you to use spacers for alignment. Have a look at the Holger Christiansen "cargo" catalogue online for pulleys.) This gives a pulley ratio of 2.7 to 1, and an alternator speed of 3240rpm at a respectable 1200rpm on the engine. Worth a look? Obviously a twin alternator set up would be better, but if that's not possible/viable then this might optimise what you have in a cost effective manner. The boys at Beta (usually John or Adrian I think) can advise further when you call them. Steve (Eeyore)

I'm suggesting that it's worth asking as your original enquiry was about a second alternator, did you provide them with the engines "K" number from the Beta label? The alternator can probably be sourced at a lower price, but the rest will be at Beta prices.Many boats run with one alternator without issue (where a second alternator is impractible), and this option does not require any more room at the front of the engine. Here are a few late night ramblings on the subject of a second alternator for your engine: You will notice from the earlier links that Red Sea going Beta engines come with individual engine mounting legs, whilst green canal going Beta engines have a mounting beam arrangement. Barrus Shire engines also use this mounting beam arrangement, but interestingly mount their second alternator on the beam. This might be an option for you, there are plenty of useful images online in the Barrus Shire catalouge. Steve (Eeyore)

Top left shows an engine fitted with a 6PK belt drive as per page 42 of the illustrated parts list (posted by OldGoat).The crank pulley bolts over the original. Disregard any references to the Beta controller; the 100 amp alternator is available with a standard internal regulator. This is probably the most straight forward option; albeit more expensive due to the use of genuine parts. Steve (Eeyore)

I've posted something on your original thread, hopefully useful.

I think that number format is the internal system used by Filtermania for hydraulic filters, might be worth double checking. The 3/4"-14 thread is usually described as BSP, and is of course closer to 1" diameter when you measure it. There are filters with 1"-14 UNS threads, but all the ones I can find are for fuel. The next best option would be M26 x 1.5, and there are a good few oil filters available in that size. Obviously it's slightly under on the major diameter, but the pitch is off (1.5 mm pitch = approx 16tpi) however this may not be an issue over such a short length of thread in the filter. Worth a look? Others will be along to comment shortly!

Vetus genuine belt is now a Gates belt, saw two on my colleagues desk earlier.

The external armouring on the fuel lines was the path of least resistance on my first boat, was lucky to spot it in time.I agree with Tims point, but the actions of previous owners is rarely fully appreciated until something like this happens. Steve (Eeyore)

Turning things off isn't usually enough in the circumstances; you have to be sure that everything is unplugged/disconnected as well. If it works try plugging things back in one at a time until the fault reoccurs. If it doesn't work you may need to check your wiring, connectors and any changeover switches.

Thank you Sir Nibble