Jen-in-Wellies

If there is a hatch in to the tank in the front deck, then it is a built in steel tank. Not had a boat with one myself, but the seal around the hatch can leak, leading to gunge getting in. Also the tank needs regularish painting with special paint. Search for built in tank, potable water paint, painting water tank, derusting water tank etc. Should find you the information you need. Sounds a horrible job, curled up inside derusting and painting. I've painted the inside of my gas locker, which is similarly unpleasant. Jen

Is this the only lead/acid battery left? Did you do the test that @Sir Nibble recommended of disconnecting the negative cable from the battery and seeing if the engine refuses to turn over? Never assume anything with boat electrics! Jen

That is unfair. They are sold as battery isolation switches and they do that job very well. They just aren't so good as battery connection switches. ?

Quite right. The only disadvantage of having the horn at the stern is that you deafen yourself, rather than the person obliviously speeding towards the bridge hole on a blind bend. It is also more traditionally narrow boaty than having it at the bow if that is a consideration. Jen

From the analysis of excess deaths in a number of countries carried out by the Financial Times. Number of deaths being recorded - number that would normally be seen at that time of year for the UK and a number of other countries. The FT is not noted as a paper that will play fast and loose with statistics, or be naturally hostile to a Conservative government. When there is a temptation to record COVID-19 deaths as something else, then excess deaths is probably the best metric for country to country comparison. Covers not only COVID-19 deaths, but others, like people avoiding getting that weird chest pain checked out because they don't want to bother those busy doctors. People are always talking Britain down, but here is something that we are world beaters at! Considering a few weeks cruising at some point this summer, but likely to leave it till later as I can see us going in to Lock Down part two in the not to distant future. Jen

Likely a dodgy high resistance connection in the wiring through the boat somewhere between the battery and the horn. You say you've checked there is 12V at the end of the cable. If you connect the horn and measure the voltage across it when the button is pressed you will probably see this drop to only a few volts. If so, then it is a matter of going through each connection to fuse, button, etc to find the duff one. Another possibility is that the wire is too thin, but if horns have worked before, then this is unlikely. Post clash with @WotEver! Jen

https://www.theguardian.com/politics/video/2020/may/25/dominic-cummings-says-he-drove-to-barnard-castle-to-test-his-eyesight-video

Take a short cruise to check your eyesight is OK first though. That will be fine. ?

13mm is actually 1/2", The compression hose tail that @Bod links to would be a proper job solution. An easier one to use would be this: https://www.johnguest.com/speedfit/product/10-15-22-28mm-size-fittings/hose-connector/ Speedfit part number NG448. This is a push fit on to the copper pipe. You would need to cut the pipe and remove the damaged bit and the olive bulge and deburr the end. The fitting pushes on. The hose can be fitted with the hot water trick to soften it and fit a jubilee clip too. Ebay. Jen

That is standard 15mm outside diameter copper pipe. It has a compression olive and back nut on it. If it had a hose pipe with a jubilee clip attached, then that is a bit of a bodge, though it can work, if not tightened too much as you've seen. What is the inside diameter of the hose pipe that was connected? If we know that we can recommend a better fitting. Jen

The area most vulnerable to rust is around the water line. The further you get below and above that, then less rusting takes place. Usually. Caveats etc. Which part of the country are you planning to do most of your boating? Much of the network is so shallow you'll just scrape off any blacking on the base plate bouncing over mud banks and shopping trolleys. There are a few areas with deeper water. The commercial waterways in Yorkshire for example. Jen

The forces that can be put on a pole in extremis are enormous. You really don't want it breaking with all some ones weight on it. Oiling does sound a good idea. Anyone here admit to actually doing this? Would the canal police come along with battery angle grinders and remove all the washers off your boat hull as punishment for going against tradition? "Boat poles should either be freshly painted, or with flaking paint and rot." ? Jen

Another new review. Generally favourable. The system seems to be undergoing continuous development, so you need to get the most up to date info. Looks interesting. If you have an old bike this seems to be a cheap way of going electric assist. Not used an electric bike myself yet. Still on the twentieth century technology. Jen

What @TheBiscuits said. The drawing or scanning work is the expensive bit if you pay someone else, or time consuming if done yourself. If it is basically a flat design with thickness to it, then a photo, or flatbed scan could be used, converted to vector graphics, then projected in to 3D. Needs some knowledge of vector graphics and 3D CAD to do yourself. Choice of material to print it in is important. On a car, so outside. Needs to be UV stable. Is it going to be painted? Does it need to look like chrome Jen?

One of these. If it works on gold it will probably work on wood. Of course you need the underground lair and the machine gun toting henchpersons too.

Definitely wood. He had to take a plane to the sides to try and get it to fit through the Grindley Brook locks at a time when no one had navigated them for ages. The boat itself was bought off his uncle and converted to live on. Jen

You paint over it with something else to do the non-glossy and non slippery bit. It was the reason why the picture caption said "Pic below of black POR15 being painted. The top coat was Craftmaster raddle red.". Also to add UV stabilisation and a different colour. The POR15 does the non rusty and tough bit. As @Alan de Enfield says it was still wet when the pic was taken. The finished deck:

Assuming the bus bar design will suit (no picture, or link), I'd stick the connection to the shunt in the middle, then attach the other negative wires each side, with the highest current ones closest to the shunt connection. In order probably inverter, if fitted, closest (100's of A at times), followed by alternator batt charger and solar, (10's of A's for long periods), followed by domestic 12V (usually <10A most of the time). Minimises resistance and connection numbers. Jen

That is an important bit of information to leave out when asking a question on a boat forum ?! In that case, sorry, no idea. Morso stoves are held together by bolts, but the ones inside the firebox seize up rapidly and any attempt to remove them afterwards usually just ends up shearing the head off. If it is held in with internal bolts, then I wouldn't attempt to remove it. Could be worth getting in a chimney sweep and seeing how they cope. They have to deal with cast iron stoves much more than open fire places these days, so will have a method. Jen

In a few decades time my boats Beta 43 will be a classic engine, compared with all the boats with electric, dilithium crystal and antimatter powered engines. Classic is just a matter of time, assuming it doesn't wear out, or blow up first. Jen

I and I suspect most people sweep the flue from the top down, stood on the roof. Keeping the door closed keeps the soot inside and not all over the boat cabin as sweeping bottom up would do. Then sweep it all in to the ash pan and remove. Baffle plate, or back boiler is in place. There is an inch, or inch and a half gap to get the soot and clinker out between the top of the plate, or back boiler and the top of the stove.

Does your stove have a back boiler installed? If not, there can be two baffle plates in there. One runs the full width of the stove, the other fits under the base of flue, if it is a top exit stove. For boat installs Morso recommend not fitting the second one, but fitting the first full width one, or a back boiler. The back boiler replaces the full width baffle. Which of these do you mean? Just spotted this is your first post. Welcome to CWDF! Jen

I've used POR15 on the back and well deck on my boat. It is something I had recommended by a classic car restoration person, but I've never heard of anyone else using it in the boat world. Very tough stuff and resistant to diesel, so ideal for decks that are walked on. It is not UV stable, so needs a top coat of appropriate colour. Jen Pic below of black POR15 being painted. The top coat was Craftmaster raddle red. Plus an attempt at stopping cat paw prints appearing.

Most shore line bollards inland are only 16A at most. Some only 6A. Only a couple of days a year when air con would be nice on a boat. The rest of the time you can open all the windows and doors. Fly screens can keep the bugs out.

The important bit is someone else's washing machine! I wash my mooring and centre lines once a year in the twin tub, so I get to see the state of the water that comes out. Absolutely black. Lock slime, mud, grit, goose sh1te etc etc. I've had the same ropes for a decade and they still handle well. Used for cruising only and stored in the dark when not in use. I use old climbing ropes at my home mooring. Jen