Grace and Favour

Quote " being a man in the know, would you know if 6x100 watt solar panels be enough to keep the batteries topped up without having to run the engine for a few hrs every day? also how much roughly does the average engine cost to run per hr? cheers" 600w of solar, (through a mppt controller) will provide a useful amount of power during the summer, and about 1/10th of it in winter (it all depends, of course, on how much power you need - which is why folks suggest you do a power audit first - - determine how much power you need, and then design a system to provide the power.) A 1.5Ltr BMC engine uses between 0.75 and 1Ltr of diesel per hour on idle (just driving alternators). but you also need to factor in maintenance costs, and, if being thorough - replacement costs too. When I calculated the overall generation costs incurred with our (bigger) Beta engine - It came out at about >£1.00 per Kwh. (And solar is a great deal quieter too) - but like all systems on boats - it's most practical having more than one system for everything, (and to all intents and purposes, you will not ever heat water using pv panels)

Address the claim to the hire company

Should that be "broken blue collar workers" (G&F wanders off to collect coat)

I suggest you have a look at Bimble Solar

Aaaaaarrrrgggghhh! (of course!)

OP - Definitely put a deal more insulation round your calorifier. Either box it in, and then generously fill the box with expanded polystyrene balls/pieces - or get a roll of foil-backed bubblewrap and wrap the tank several times. Then your water should stay hot for at least 24 hours. And on the subject of charging your batteries - - I suggest you're not running your engine sufficiently to charge them properly. I'd run for at least 90 mins, maybe 120, every day. And, as soon as practical, get yourself some solar panels too. (They make life so much easier, and quieter!)

OP - - - there are many extremely good primers available (And some awful stuff too!) However, they will always work best when matched to your undercoat & topcoat . I suggest that you contact your topcoat manufacturer, and ask them what they recommend. Or Tell the forum what topcoat you intend to use, and we'll work back from there.

I used Trent Boat Handling for our training, (the position of Sawley is super - for you've canal, locks and river all within a few hundred yards) I found the experience invaluable.

No, not at all. I know of boats that are CC'ers that are used by liveaboards, and some that are used as leisure, (and there are probably some that are used as businesses, too)

I didn't know anyone made an 'Ebay hours' counter! ( )

Nah! - MtB is still around...... (Though I too think it should be 'previous' - - However, the other phrase should be "low and behold" )

Vactan is an excellent rust treatment, (buy online or from you chandlery) I would suggest that a better paint for your gas locker would be Danboline Bilge Paint (Not as prone to chipping as Hammerite (which should only be used on garden gates - and even then - only by other folks!) I have a couple of loops of old mooring line (that I sit the gas bottles on) in our gas locker - it allows any water to exit the locker.

A worthwhile tip is to make sure that there is never any alcohol consumed whilst the boat is, or is due to be, driven. And I too would suggest that a training session, on your own boat, by a RYA instructor will set you on the right path, and give you the correct level of confidence to progress your experience safely.

Thank you Keith

Having seen a constant criticism of CRT that they had never effectively defined "place" - a definition essential for all CC'ers, that they have now published their definition - so surely that should make life considerably easier for all CC'ers, (Whether liveaboard or leisure)?

Of course! You're right - I hadn't read the sentence correctly. (will now go and chastise myself)

CRT certainly checks the boats in King's Marina on a regular basis!

They're not cheap - but very effective! (Linky Ebay)

I could only speculate that it would be the Hire Co's responsibility, as their security was insufficient to prevent the scrotes from loosing the craft (thus causing damage to the third party's boat). Whether the Hire Co would choose to stand the loss, or draw on their Public Liability cover, would be up to them, I suspect.

Once a year when I do the maintenance on our Squirrel, I unscrew all the glass retaining bolts (I use Stainless steel ones), dab a little copper grease on the threads, and replace. They've never been difficult to remove.

You only need to have made 5 posts in order to 'pm'. Reply to this post and you'll be 3/5ths of the way there!

What brand is it, Fudd? Have you tried contacting the manufacturer?

These folks? (Linky)

Will ythe solids dissolve if you give the tin a good shake?