martyn 1

Physically the pump body is the same throughout the LW/LX range but they have different cam follower arms between those mounted on the cambox and those onto the crankcase. not an issue if you got the wrong one as you can swap the arm over from yours if needed.

Nope - if they squeak that just means they are injecting, it has no bearing on the quality of the spray pattern. So if you having issues it may be that they work but require a service.

It's a new version, I believe the Americans would call it a rat motor means we dont have to bother cleaning, painting, polishing etc etc etc But unfortunatly in the case of this perticular engine, it turning over would be a start, got a seized pistons at the moment. LEO - It was supplied new to power a slurry pump at a sand pit near southampton which it continued to drive up until about 20 years ago and has been sat in a farmyard since.

Non unit construction type 5LW with open flywheel. With the smaller engines you tend to see in narrowboat having it with enclosed flywheel just makes the gearbox installation neater/easier

No Problem Gareth

It is 1/8" BSP. Cheers Martyn

Just to finish off the thread, assuming oilling the pushrods sorts Sassans problem here is a bit of engine porn , the engine in question when it left us a few years back. Here

the little cups in the top of the pushrods are very small so 2 maybe 3 squirts of the oil can should be all you need.

Engine has been converted to JK spec so doesnt need the manual filling with oil and greasing of rocker shafts that standard JP's do (Sassan, you will see small bore copper pipes into the sides of the heads which is the oil feed that isnt there on the JP spec, they have greasers). But it will need a drop of oil in the tops of the pushrods every now and then so would do that as it may be the cause of your squeek.

According to the Lister documentation your engine should be running on an 10w40 15w40 or 20w40 oil depending on ambient air temps. The oil should be to API CC grade or above (CD CE etc) If the oil you use in your Scania meets this then your using the right stuff.

SR's are available in either hand rotation although standard is anti clockwise looking at the flywheel. Anti clockwise is standard pretty much nowadays.

Will depend on what rotation your engine is, clockwise or anticlockwise? as SR's were built in both and what gearbox you have fitted.

the differences are the same as say a JP4 and a JK4, The 61-6 or JP6 has a max governed speed of 1200 rpm and the JK6 has a max governed speed of 1500rpm. To achieve this like the smaller engines it has different bearings, crank etc. Incidentally the engine only length for a JP/JK6 is 74 1/2" according to the data sheet I have. And weights in at a hefty 1.81 tonnes

You wont be that familiar with the workings of the JP or JK6 as other than loosely looking similar outside they are a very different engine with a lot of components being different and harder to get hold of than those of a JP2,3,4 etc. Different heads (Each head covers 2 cylinders) Different Head gaskets Different cylinder liners Completely different layout of crankcase/drive for injector pump etc etc. If I were you I would be aiming for a JK4 this would still nearly double your hp and all parts except (Crank and bearings and camshaft, and a few little bits and bobs) are exactly the same as the smaller JP's which you can get bits for both here in the UK and Holland. You can rebuild a JP4 to JK spec if you have the right crank and associated bits. JK4 62hp @ 1500rpm and depending on which crank version the engine has a JK4 is 61 1/4" or 67 1/4" long engine only, gearbox would be on top of this. I have the data sheet for the JP/JK6's at home so will get the length off of that for you later. Oh and MtB there are a couple of JP/K6's on the market if you know where to look . Hint, Apollo duck for starters http://engines.apolloduck.co.uk/feature.phtml?id=316375

Having frost damaged repaired several JP's over the years it can be done depending on the extent. But having been offered this engine several months back and looked at the extent of the damage it is most definitly spares. well unless you happen to have a good block missing everything else.

A hard job is getting the crank out of a jp3, on your own in sub zero temperatures when the gear end bearing has had water through it and is seized in the housing. Last time I did the oil pump conversion it took 2 hours start to finish. with 30 mins of that messing around getting the flywheel off.

Its a fairly easy job but does require the removal of the flywheel to do it. You need the complete oil pump assembly with internal filter, the external oil pump to oil input pipe (top of end housing next to throttle bell crank) and the dipstick and filler plate off of an industrial engine.

I suppose on the pump front it depends on how much you like your tin of Brasso Personally I would go for a modern one or the later JP/JK gear type pump. can't stand the earlier plunger type pumps.

Easy choice, a JP2.. but without the marine scavenge oil tank which then removes about half the steps in the process above. And considering the scavenge oil system was to ensure the engine always had oil when pitching and rolling at sea I can't see it really having much use on a narrow boat other than making the oil changes more expensive as the marine engines with tank hold more oil. Can't remember the last time I saw a 15 - 20' wave on the cut

Pretty Much covered by Jon and Gareth but here is all the bits you need to do in bullet point form to make it easy. Remove rocker covers and clean out old oil and other muck. refill with fresh oil until it just covers the large nuts where the pushrods come up through. good Idea to check the valve clearances at this point and adjust as needed (engine cold for the clearances). also ensure fresh oil in both cups on the tops of the pushrods. Remove both covers from the top of the oil tank and the internal strainers. Remove oil from tank, vacuum pump is your friend here. Clean the strainers and inside of the tank until spotlessly clean and reassemble the tank. Remove large crankcase door (the one under the exhaust manifold). Remove oil pickup filter and clean out any debris. Remove all oil and debris from the crankcase, if ground on dirt wash down with parrafin and ensure totally cleaned out. Refit oil pickup filter. Put some oil in the bottom of the engine approx 5 ltrs (Morris goldenfilm SAE30 or SAE20 if handstart) Refit large crankcase door and any other bit you disturbed to get it off. Put approx 20 ltrs of oil in the tank. With everything back together, turn over the engine until oil pressure is registered and then start. Run for a few minutes and then stop. Check oil level on tank and top up as required. Your all done. Martyn

Firstly is it a industrial JP2 or a proper marine JP2? does it have an external oil tank (approx 2' x 1' x 1' in size) or not, this will answer the above.

The oil you mention in your original message is SAE30 API CF-4 which is not suitable as its API CF If you can find an API CC or CD at a push then thats fine.

No Problem, As i said the multigrades are not the problem its the detergent/additive packs and in the late 60's/ early 70's even the oils you mention would have been API CC maybe CD so would most likely be fine as long as the new oil covers the temp and viscosity range of the stated SAE30 and thanks for the comment on our site. So hypothetically you have just spent the best part of £12k of a 2LW and chucking some old recycled used to be oil crap in it is ok, is it?? Somehow I don't think so and well I can't complain too much as its skimping on oil and poor servicing that is the ultimate cause of most of the engines coming through my workshop so keeps me in business, or you could just maintain it with good quality products to the spec and intervals spec'd by the manufacture and get the most out of your engine. These engines wern't built to run on cheap oil as you say, at the time it was cutting edge fluid technology and would have been good stuff.

But unfortunately in modern day sense of the term they don't have filters. on earlier LW's and L2's the oil "filter" is nothing more than a fine brass gauze mesh (might stop a chunk the size of your finger!!) and on the later engines with a replaceable paper element things are not much better because the oil filter is not full flow like modern engines (e.g. all the oil goes through it). the oil that returns out of the oil pressure relief valve is unfiltered and feeds the governor, cam box and at the far end the timing chain, all of which is probably some of the most tolerance critical parts of the engine. Incidentally later Gardner LX onwards do state multi grade oils 20w/20 but that isn't the issue, its the API grade, the oil must be a CC maybe a CD at a push, but basically the new oils have additive packs that these old engines were never designed to run with, and seem as the correct Gardner specified stuff is still readily available from various sources. It just astonishes me that people toy with incorrect oils on what is probably the single most expensive part of the boat to replace except the hull itself. As for the 10w40 if its a API CC oil you will probably find that its quiet happy on it, but as the correct stuff is available I wouldnt try it on my own engine until the proper stuff is un obtainable.