chris63

Thanks for those two threads that's exactly what I was hoping to source!! also I am fitting the same gearbox so I think I will put a skin tank on both sides and fit a oil cooler like yours. took quite a while to read you mega tread though lol as it was a couple of years back has it behaved it's self since you had the extra tank fitted? cheers Chris.

Yes that's what I plan on doing but the guy who is welding the boat is just a general welder, he as worked on boat building before but not for a long time, so was just hoping to get as much advice before we get started to save time and as little hassle as possible.

That has me a little puzzled to be honest I cant see how water can circulate when there's no gap.

Ups, didn't link to that one doe!! spent ages looking at different posts. Could that be converted to fit my swim as mine curves, bearing in mind that I am cutting the old rotten swim out and putting a new steel plates in anyway, will be fitting a BMC 1800. Chris.

I don't know how to put links in a post, but have found someone who makes them and advertises them on here. If someone could post it on this thread please then I could take some advice on it!! It's in For sale & wanted, Aug 07 2014. Cheers Chris.

Hi all, hope someone can point me in the right direction!! I am just about to start sorting welding issues on my boat, while I am at it I am also putting a BMC1800 engine in at the same time, previous engine is a air cooled Lister. It needs the swim re-plating and also part of the sides plating where the skin tank will be fitted, so am thinking of cutting it all out and putting new steel in most of the engine bay. So the question is what size should the skin tank be, or should I make it as big as I can, also what's the best method of bending it to follow the curvature of the side of the swim?

I would have thought that if water was seeping into the barrels it would be like a steam train out of the exhaust!

That's why i had to change my plans and get my boat off the chesterfield canal, was originally going to take it to Rotherham on the tenth of November, ended up doing it in stages.

It's a old lister have had the oil pump off and it's not that but not sure what it is, I think it needs a major overhaul!!

I have finally got my boat to the boat yard for some major TLC, after a 30 hour cruise with a engine that has no oil pressure, but it went absolutely fine, if it didn't have a oil pressure gauge I wouldn't have known there was a problem with it. The swim wants renewing, engine swap, any other replating that needs attention to, a little TLC inside, then a re-paint. Just got to wait for them to get my boat out of the water into the boat yard so I can view the extent of the rot and then it's get to work on it, hopefully 6 months time and it will be sorted but am expecting it to be out for 18 months, as I said it all depends on the state of the hull and weather.

When I need to get water out of bilges I have put sawdust in some old tights [the wife's!!] tie a knot in each end a piece of string on one end drop it into the bilge leave it there over night, it's amazing how much water it holds when I fetch it out the following morning.

i know this is a long way off but what are your thoughts on treating the floor (inside) i was thinking on the lines of a acid based rust eater then waxoil.

That could be positive then didn't realise that that much rust would create such a thin layer of actual steel, not going to start prodding though until it's out of the water!!

Richard, all i no at the moment is it definitely needs the swim replacing as it's rotten, but have lifted some of the floor up and it's full of rust so am preparing for the worst!! Peter, Tullys in Rotherham

All being well my boat will be out of the water for some replating in the next couple of weeks, i think i will be replating the bottom while it's out and was wondering what thickness plate to use, anyone got any ideas please