springy

Ditto - I've tried a variety of ordinary "domestic" DAB radios and the Roberts has the best reception of all of them - I use it in the car as well as on the boat and it holds onto the signal much better than any other I've tried. I'm more of a Radio 7 listener. springy

The "S" is solid bar - probably better than tube for this purpose - which would have to be quite thick wall and would be difficult to bend so tightly without creasing. The band is a solid ring which I presume was chosen as being the correct size for the fount (or maybe a fount was found to fit the available brass ring) rather than being strip brazed up to a suitable size. It is a lot easier to clean than some of the fancy candle sconces. springy

I dont know if this is a "home made" bracket or not but it works ! springy

Single or Twin Alternator setup ? If Single then in the absence of any switching you would effectively connect the leisure bank to the starter battery through this cable (and the terminal stud on the back of the alternator) - resulting either in a flat starter battery having run the tv, lights, etc all night or some of the starter current being drawn through the charging cable from the leisure bank. With Twin alternators, one dedicated to each system, then there are good logical reasons for doing as you suggest - any switch, junction etc. is a potential problem spot - high resistance contacts etc., and this is indeed the practice commonly used in automotive single alternator + single battery bank setup. However BSS requires that battery banks can be isolated from their associated systems so AIUI you must have a switch somewhere in the system between the battery and any attached equipment. springy

I bought one a few years back from Evelyn Booth, Lockside antiques - clicky, at the time she had a choice of three, and yes the mounting brackets were converted piano sconces. Whilst an aladdin mantle lamp gives a much brighter and whiter light, I'm not sure how well the mantle would cope with life on a boat. springy

Alternatively, if the damage is not too severe, it is possible to straighten bent edges using two hammers, and therefore avoid having to remove the prop. springy

Did the same run - out yesterday, & back today - 5 hrs norton canes -> horsley fields jcn, 5 hrs 15 mins horseley fields jcn -> norton canes. Much much better than it used to be. No weedhatch use - some weedy bits but most could be thrown off with a quick burst of reverse. Water pretty much "on Level". springy

scumbled most likely springy

I think blackrose is correct in suggesting that the heater is not firing up because of lack of flow, and NBMike's debris suggestion is probably the cause. If the flow from the cold tap IS completely unaffected then the debris MUST be somewhere in the feed to the heater - probably in the valve in the heater itself - a bit of a pain depending on the particlar model/brand of heater. If however the cold flow is affected (even slightly) then the debris could be anywhere in the system - a neighbour of mine recently had a similar problem - cold flow seemed OK but the water heater (paloma) would only fire up on maximum setting, cleaned out pump and filter - no effect, checked accumulator - no effect, in the end we reversed the pump connections (feeding from a hose in a bucket) and forced water back up the feed pipe into the tank - success ! There must have been something in the pipe between the tank and the pump. Now the cold flow is noticably better and the paloma works perfectly. Might be worth a try if its not too difficult to arrange. springy

IIRC the thread is 3/4 BSP. springy

See this Thread springy

Does that mean I should leave the county next week when we're hydro testing some pipework to 135 bar g (it is pretty thick wall). Thats over 54 thousand inches of water ! (just under 2000 psi) springy

Yes you can do a compression test on a diesel (you need to use an appropriate gauge - one for a petrol will not do) BUT you need to remove the injectors to do it which was the OPs starting point. Stuck valves may be apparent by removing the cam cover - I'm not sure whether these engines have shimmed or hydraulic tappets - if they are shimmed then the excessive clearance may well be obvious, however if they are hydraulic it will be difficult to tell for sure. However it is unlikely (but not impossible) that valves will be stuck on all 4 cylinders - when the engine was stationary only two of the eight valves would be open. Stuck rings is more likely if all four cylinders are affected. springy

I too would go for a speedwheel, but try and arrange it so that you don't have too many turns from tickover to full throttle otherwise you end up winding like crazy when maouvering. (Personally I like half a turn from tickover to full but that does have an oil rod, a clutch and a reversing rod to play with as well) You can't hang a baby's crib from a line in the engine room ... or can you ? springy

Still sitting there at the grove, though she was lightly used over the winter as a coal bunker ! springy

W'ton Top lock will be closed from 4:30 pm monday 22/6/2010 instead of the usual 6:30 pm - Lock gate repairs - addressing a leak. Planned as a 1 day only restriction. BW advise that boaters ascending the flight should commence before 2:00 pm. springy

Could be a motorola, but I think you'll also find that the green wire is a modification to allow conection of an external regulator. springy

If you ran out of water theres a fair chance that some crud from the bottom of the tank has made its way into the pump pre-filter (assuming one is fitted) check that first - if not fitted then crud may have made its way into the pump valves - either way this could cause poor flow from the pump which would explain your problem. One other possibility has just occurred to me - Crud partially blocking the tank outlet - either in the shut off valve or pipe or even inside the tank, over the outlet hole. If the pump/filter are ok then you could try connecting a hose to the tank outlet pipe & forcing water INTO the tank to try and dislodge any blockage. springy

As Trev said the "refund" system is not as straightforward as you might think - after 3 months use of a 12 month licence you would only get 65% back not 75% as you might expect, after 6 months you would only get 40% back not 50% etc. Full details BW Clicky For the DD scheme you would have to calculate the refund that would be due if you had paid the full amount to give you the effective cost of the period used and then compare that with what you have paid so far. springy

Glad to hear that the gearbox has decided to behave properly, shame about the big end though. As has already been suggested you will probably find the rest of it in the sump, and only proper measuring will determine if the crank and/or conrod are recoverable, and then you can decide whether its economically best to rebuild or replace, though dont forget to include a factor for an engine which you know is "all good" 'cos you rebuilt it as against an engine picked up second hand as "all good" or even "running ok when removed", even though you'll have a big pile of spares to chuck at it. springy

Brilliant clip springy