springy

Slightly similar to bobbybass in as much as for quite a while I thought I had a slight leak - just the occasional whiff when a bottle was nearly empty but passed manometer tests on two BSSs, Only when I fitted a bubble tester because I knew BSS examiner liked them, it did prove there was a slight leak, which was also eventally tracked down with a hand held sniffer - and was also a T junction under a worktop. Good piece of kit - makes testing takes seconds. A slight leak is still a leak and might get worse. I used an 8mm version & replaced the fittings - at the time they were about a pound cheaper IIRC. springy

Hi Nipper Best airflow would probably have the cuts evenly distributed, however the length of the middle section will be dictated by the offset required inbetween the stove outlet and the roof collar. Consequently it first becomes a question of how far down does the lower elbow need to come to gain the required clearance at the closest point. From there its probably what looks best. Sueb has a point about being able to sweep it, though 30 degree bends on on 100mm flue shouldn't be too bad. springy

I liked the bit at the end where they were holding position but rolling from side to side ! Incredible drive system. springy

Did anyone actually see a kitchen sink ? springy

I think there are two types of regulator as far as the overflow is concerned - the smaller bodied (earlier ?) regulator has an overflow weir which leads to a threaded outlet, which apparently gets a plug put in it. The larger bodied regulator still has the overflow weir but it just runs into another chamber with a second float - when this float lifts it triggers the shut down (also triggered by the capilliary bulb if fitted). If fuel does overflow into this chamber then the top of the regulator must be removed and the fuel sucked out of the chamber before the shut down can be reset. Clearly the smaller regulator - with the overflow properly connected will be better on a sea going vessel where temporary overflows due to movement will be much more likely, on the other hand the fact that on the cut the bottom of the stove will almost be on the bottom makes it difficult to provide a proper drain - means the larger bodied regulator is much safer. springy

You may be able to get a 12v ignition pack that you can fit in place of the 240v one - what make of cooker ? springy

Yes having a pressurised system IS necessary for some engines - many automotive derived engines are designed with a pressurised system - to the point that running unpressurised can under heavy loading cause "spot boiling" in the water galleries around the exhaust ports in the cylinder head - this in turn reduces the efficiency of the cooling system leading to overheating. Most proper marine engines are designed with adequate cooling galleries to ensure proper function even at atmospheric pressure (but also probably use much more water/antifreeze mixture if appropriate). springy

Certainly two separate items - allows you to flip one off to go round tight bends & junctions, also (AIUI) they should hold the fore end of the butty up against the motors stern fenders - I have taken tea from brewed on the motor to the butty steerer stepping from the stern of the motor onto the fore-end of the butty. springy

As an untrained user I agree completely - having tackled a potentially very nasty fire (grinding spark into paper bag on shelf under a shelf full of part tins of paint) with a halon extinguisher - which simply put it out, no fuss, no mess. Fortunately I've never had to use a dry powder but I have seen the aftermath and I got the impression that in terms of its "extinguishing" capabilities was not impressive (wall cladding fire). springy

There's Ice on the cannock extension today, but I'd hardly call it "frozen in" springy

I suspect that there might be flow through the instant heater - maybe not enough to fire up the burners, particularly if the calorifier is much further away from the pump than the instant heater, but it could cool the water coming from the calorifier before it got to the taps springy

I put an "L port" valve inbetween the outlet from the instant water heater and the calorifier outlet, with the outlet from this valve feeding all the hot water taps (at the time it was still a BSS fail). I have since added another valve on the calorifier inlet - this allows me to drain the calorifier in the winter & then isolate it - so I can still refill & use the instant heater without having to refill the whole system. I did once see a similar thing done using two (plastic) stop valves instead of an "L port" by arranging the pipework such that the stop valve knobs sat "top to top" and then had a piece of plastic pipe joining the two knobs - thus turning one off also turned the other one on. springy

How big are the portholes ? Have seen them done very effectively with "multi-sides" - 6" would probably be ok with just a hexagon, these were 11" and decagonal, anything bigger would probably need to be bihexagonal, took a bit of working out to get all the dimensions just right & some carefull cutting with a mitre saw (10 lots of 10 pieces all "identical") but looked very good in the end & cost less than the fifty quid needed to buy one turned liner of the shelf, to make all ten ! springy

In fact (unsurprisingly) it depends where you are in the system :- on a typical system where you have tank -> primary filter/water trap -> lift pump -> secondary filter -> injector pump -> injectors When the engine is running any problems before the lift pump (suction side) may result in air being drawn in (slightly below atmospheric pressure), problems after the lift pump (pressure side) will show up as a leak, if the engine is not running then either is actually possible, but leaks before the lift pump and air drawn in after is more likely. If you have a gravity fed system (day tank) then leaks. (or air drawn in if there's a blockage). Not quite sure with modern injector pumps where the "lift pump" is actually built in to the injector pump but i would expect the same principle - anything before the pump may leak when the engine is not running, and draw air when the engine is running, however as they are often "self bleeding" you may not notice it. springy

I'd probably put those two the other way round - first make sure youre getting rid of the hot air & not just recirculating, if that is all ok or makes no difference - then examine the state of the fins - if its just dust then an airline will get rid of most of it without stripping too much of the cowling, if it is a mixture of dust/oil/fibres and has been there some time you will need to remove the cowling and make yourself a fin scraper as per the manual. springy

I have heard many times from a variety of sources stories of bits of the the BCN catching fire as a result of the phosphorous waste "lost overboard" when it was a regular traffic (heading for disposal down a disused mineshaft). springy

Hi Gaggle Your test setup should be perfectly ok - it is a new filter, once any air has bled out fuel should flow quite freely through it, the pump is in exactly the right place for what you ultimately need to achieve, I can only suspect your inlet pipe/ syphon bulb is providing some obstruction to free flow. As an aside the "inline filter" you originally linked to is unacceptable to the BSS - its plastic, all components in a fuel system must either be metal or suitably marked rubber hose, which is also why the plastic drain bung originally fitted to the bottom of your new filter bowl must be replaced by a metal one. springy

IIRC the actual unit has 3/8 bsp female threads, like blackrose I changed the fittings in mine - one to 1/2" compression, and one to 1/2" bsp female (straight onto bulkhead fitting) howevever the original fittings were bl**dy tight, on examination after dismantling I am fairly certain that a "setting" thread sealant had been used (as opposed to a "non setting" sealant such as calor-tite). springy

not sure how much this helps but I've got a Lidl one, but I guess its an erratic stock item springy

Link to BBC report Here, Midlands Today lunchtime news report seemed to suggest that they fell in the chamber. springy

If you run the fire without proper circulation it is likely that you are actually boiling the water in the "back boiler" - which may explain the gurgling noises, if you run the fire with the boiler drained you run the risk of damaging the boiler. Although the current position of the pump may not be ideal - does it circulate the hot water ? Whilst gravity circulation is a much better option in many ways it does need bigger pipes - if these are already installed (at least 22mm preferably 28mm) with a route that will allow a gravity flow then changing is a simple matter, however if you have to change all the pipe work or the layout you might be better just moving your pump. springy

Having been and had a look I think this may be it:- Right hand side of the engine as viewed from the flywheel end, Immediately below the Oil pressure switch/gauge connection you can just make out a plug, I suspect I would have to remove either the starter or the oil filter to get at it ! springy

Why not add a vent/bleed to the top of the skin tank - the steel should be thick enough to take a tapped thread - I used an M6 stainless pan head screw with a fibre washer under the head, - It will make life so much easier next time. springy

I can't remember ever noticing one on my 1.8, however according to the manual there should be either a tap or a plug on the right hand side of the engine. springy