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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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    Doing Fancy PhD stuff until I majestically fail
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  • Boat Location
    Grand Union

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  1. No, not a new boat. The bitumen must have come off and the exposed steel gotten millscale. OR it was millscale on it from the very start in 1987 and people have just painted over it for some reason. There is a definite difference between the clean steel & dark millscale. I could do a blacking, but I guess I'm concerned at the hard work of taking it off to do an Epoxy later. Ultimately, I want to work towards an Epoxy given the all around concerns about bitumen in water tanks. Thanks, Tracy! I think bitumen might have to be it... still attracted to Epoxy in the long run. Sounds like you have to do the job less often once the Epoxy is on.
  2. Thank you, Dave! The tank is currently Vactaned & I've been lying in it (not crying, but slightly annoyed with myself) to have a think about my options based on what I've read up so far: 1. The boat yard thinks Epoxy is a good idea, but I don't. I've seen the work still to be done in the tank; they've only glanced at it. Areas of millscale alone makes it risky. 2. Whack Bitumen on the Vactan (but this may fall off the millscale too, if I don't succeed to abrade it? and then also be a real bother to take off if I want to do Epoxy next time). 3. Just stick to Vactan, empty it once a year to work a little bit more on it & re-apply Vactan (I assume this is doable while in the canal, as long as plate is warm enough?). By spending 3 years removing all of the old bitumen gradually, I can then do the epoxy next time I'm craned out for blackening. . The last option seems the most sensible, but also lazy. And I always start to suspect myself when the lazy option sounds good! I was brought up that hard work is good work, but I simply don't have the time or heart to start from scratch again to do it all right.
  3. Thankfully I screwed my brain back on and realised it might be worth emailing various paint suppliers. Turns out Bituross was a bitumen. Would have saved me a lot of confusion and faffing if I'd done that on day 1 - I'm on a messy learning curve with this water tank. 🙄 I'm also learning about millscale for the first time & what it looks like. I just want to say: this group is a life saver in terms of picking up vital pieces of info. ❤️ Still, hard to tell what is dark millscale or remains of very old bitumen. And I'm running out of time. I've seen that some just Vactan their tank, but since I have the time to overcoat this weekend, I'm thinking to brave it with Epoxy. I know it won't marry well with either millscale or any missed bits of bitumen, but I'm hoping (quite possibly crazily) that the sheet of Vactan will hold onto the surface and, gently abraded, hold any Epoxy on top of it. I am half expecting an explosion of "NOOOOOO"s to follow on this happy-go-lucky statement.... In which case, I'll jump the bus and get potable bitumen instead. (I kind of know I shouldn't Epox it, since I haven'd done sufficient prep work on the steel) Thank you for the google info! The boat yard told me they've got the screws, so I will leave this part to their expertise. They are still fighting to get all of the brass bits out from the previous screws...
  4. I liked this boat yard the first time around, so I resisted this notion for a long time. They are already making money out of me (craning, opening the tank, tool hire) so I hoped I could assume that whatever guidance they give - even if only a little - would be honest. I don't really know if I should revise that, or just view them as disorganised/disinterested. The problem, of course, is that I am now deeply resistant to asking them to do it since I feel that I've been given the run around.
  5. Turns out, they had a little test patch in a drawer in the office all along. I was given it this morning. I have no clue why I wasn't given it straight away, when I presented the problem. *sigh* But at least I have it now. Did the test once, but then realised the surface might be dirty - so I cleaned the surface and tried again. Not all that much came off though so I still feel uncertain if I'm staring at bitumen or 'deeper dirt'.
  6. I was recommended this in a FB group too, so I am considering giving it a try. Thanks for the links! Because I'm a novice (& possibly a moron) who follow instructions from the boat yard, trusting that they are the experts. In my defence, I questioned the 'you must take it back to metal' advice a couple of times, and particularly after realising that I can't take it back to the metal. The boat yard have advised me to go with stainless steel instead. Thank you so much for the offer though! And thank you, Slim & Bee, for further tips on screws!
  7. I was a bit nervous about the state of the tank and doing hard grinding while in water, so took it out. I combined it with an early blacking. In hindsight it was possibly unnecessary, but I didn't know at the time. Neither did I know you can get that cheap angle grinders (it was the one thing I didn't google, in all of my googling)! That said, I needed & will need the boat yard's help to sort out the screw holes so I can re-fit the lid (brass screws got messy when they tried to get them out), since I'm not very tool savvy. Hm, tomorrow may be my last day of using a hired grinder at least.
  8. Thank you, Wotever. 🙂 I am currently not 100% sure that the previous paint was bituminous though. Would there be an issue using potable blacking on something that isn't the same?
  9. I would assume it is ok, if the Vactan is covered with another paint afterwards (bitumen or epoxy?). The Vactan fact sheet mentions its potable and I've seen it recommended for water tanks. Yes, it's an integral tank & I was a bit worried since it hasn't been opened in 18 years (to my knowledge). So for assurance I craned it out and did an early blackening too. I don't know if it is bituminous paint. The name suggests it, but the surface seems hard and slow to get through. If it's not bituminous paint, I'm not sure if I can put a bituminous paint on top? No, I couldn't find it on the web either! The yard isn't that helpful, tbh - at least not in terms of discussing possibilities & options. It's just 'back to metal' or 'I don't know what to tell you'. Hence my depressed state. It doesn't melt or clog; just tough to get through. Grinding forever and only inching forwards. Have to pause a lot as the grinder gets very hot. The boat yard worker recommended the angle grinder (i'm hiring it), but also mentioned that they themselves use needle guns for the job (?). It is a long term boat (give & take the intrusion of fate) & I kind of love her, so would like to do the best job. But I also don't want to struggle with my own well-being. It is not advisable to put vactan on top of the rust, before applying the potable blacking? That's certainly a very similar name!
  10. Hello Dave, & thanks for responding! On the lid to the tank it seems soft, but it is unfortunately hard in the tank itself. I've been given two types of wire brushes (cup version & one for corners) but I've only worked with the cup version so far. The tank isn't rusty all over, but it if fairly widespread. If I try to get it down to the metal myself, it will take ten days or more - and my sanity with it. I'm about to ask the boat yard for a quote, but not sure if they'd even do this type of jobs. I can't see myself getting successfully down to metal on my own. I was hoping that if this BITUROSS was bitumen, it might be possible to just do vactan on the rust and a new layer of bitumen on top?
  11. Has anyone used BITUROSS in the past and know what this is (epoxy? bitumen?). I'm craned out to do my water tank & I've reached a stage of despair because it appears I'm crap at angle grinding through this BITUROSS coating (mentioned in my boat's paperwork). I've been advised by the marina to get it back to bare metal, but it literally took me 30 minutes just to achieve a 20cm square. I've overcome crawling into the tiny space, but I can't see how I can overcome my slowness (too weak arms & pressure)? I ended up having a good cry tonight because I felt so overwhelmed. Any tips really appreciated at this point.
  12. Hello everyone! I asked NB Lola to re-open the thread so I'd be able to update you all on the new rescue cat... but then it took ... eh.... a few days before I could find the time to work out how to upload a video (or a gif as it ended up being). ? So, YES, there is a new one-eyed cat in my home. Things happened a little faster than anticipated as they were delivering rescues from Romania and had an empty van-slot to fill if someone was willing to do a last minute foster - it seemed fate, so I said yes. I then had a bit of a saga picking the cat up - which turned out to be a kitten - from the motorway drop off point (I don't have a car... & still couldn't afford a taxi), but that's another story! (*it consumed a whole weekend & rated a good 7 on the frustration richter scale ) I just wanted you all to know - and especially Tony - that you all contributed to this rescue since I would have had to put it off otherwise (had I brought an expensive electrician around & ended up repaying debts in December!). So YAY TO ALL OF YOU! I hope it makes you feel SEASONAL.
  13. Good to know - it would have been something I wouldn't have picked up on at this stage of my learning.
  14. I was probably still digesting that I hadn't lost £400! Busbar.... busbar... Let's not forget that I also learnt that there are two different star screws. The mind boggles. At least when, prior to boating, you're the type of person who only screwed the occasional shelf into a wall. Ok, UT203 it is!
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