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RLWP

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Everything posted by RLWP

  1. I'm seeing industrial JP's that have now worn through the chrome in the liners. Leads to lots of oil coming out of the exhaust Richard
  2. Don't bank on it! We have always changed the points per section a bit to encourage some parts rather than others. Bigger changes come from bonus points for starting points. Probably the most significant changes are which bits can be score in both directions - and they do get changed We are about to initiate Jon into this secret process as handed down for centuries, hopefully he will bring his own hedgehogs Richard
  3. The organiser knows how many points per section, because they have set them. They know where the 'quiz' questions are because they have decided them. We haven't known the answers because Andy Tidy kindly set them for us - which automatically disqualifies him, we still decide it was unfair to compete It could be possible to both organise and compete, it would need some careful planning to be both fair and seen to be so. Richard
  4. Just to say how delighted we are to be handing the organisation of the BCN Challenge to Jon. Well, he did win it - perhaps we could use that as a precedent. That would shake things up a bit! Richard
  5. Good question. Probably! Richard
  6. Oh, probably. That end can be a mystery because it often has non-standard pulleys fitted. As yours has The little one looks like it is for a bilge pump, check to see if it has an Allen grub screw somewhere in the side. As an example of 'customisation', you engine has had the camshaft cut short Richard
  7. The SABB was a surprise to me! Richard
  8. The flywheel will only fit in one location, there's a Woodruff key in the taper. Td'A may be remembering SABB flywheels The bolt that holds the flywheel on will be incredibly tight, you'll probably find it has been undone and done up with a large hammer and chisel in the past. Although crude, this works in the absence of a large socket. There's also a tab washer Free the bolt off and unscrew it about a quarter of an inch (6mm). Then put the gearbox shaft back on - you'll find it won't go all the way home because it sits against the head of the bolt. Tighten the three bolts up and eventually there will be a bang and the flywheel will come off the taper We have new flywheel bolts and tab washers if you want to replace them Richard
  9. We scrapped one because of a cracked block - frost damage. That one looks OK. Nice engine Richard
  10. https://iaservices.co.uk/online-sales#!/auctions/b3fc0eb2-bee8-49a5-b82a-90e1ed683cfa?ic=30&page=1 Page 2 Richard
  11. Technically, it doesn't. It measures straightness, roundness and concentricity. You can infer cylindricity from those figures, not measure it Richard
  12. OFF-TOPIC When working on experimental Stirling engines, we used to get the pistons checked by the metrology department, including cylindricity. They always pointed out, cylindricity is something they couldn't measure. They can measure straightness, they can measure roundness, they can measure concentricity - but they had no 'cylindricity' measuring tool Richard
  13. They're impressive, those blocks. I didn't get them to unpack the crankshafts they had in a box Richard
  14. Did you enjoy Cov Classics? Richard
  15. If that was some time ago, their whitemetalling man has moved to Coventry Classics. Richard
  16. RLWP

    JP water pump

    Apologies - you are right. I hadn't read the whole thread
  17. RLWP

    JP water pump

    Indeed. If it's a Marine JP you are going to have to take the flywheel off, and when you refit the gear housing you must get the fuel pump timing right Richard
  18. RLWP

    JP water pump

    Not really. There are several versions of the JP manual to trap the unwary. The reprints we sell have the plunger pump added at the back Wait 'til you try and work out a part number... Richard
  19. Last time I dealt with a Fuzhou gearbox on one of the Kingfisher engines it had broken the spindle to the oil pump Richard
  20. I'm warning against my idle, untested speculation. From the bits of theory I remember the engine is one mass/spring/damper system with the damping coming from mainly from the engine mounts. This system is going to have a (or more likely many) resonant frequency which is determined by all of those. You cannot change the mass, the springing and damping come from the engine mounts So, in theory, if you've got an engine that's going into resonance at an undesirable cruising speed, you could change the frequency by having different types of mount front and rear On the other hand - I'm speculating idly and R&D do this for a living. Go with the R&D set up Richard
  21. Do they - and is that a good thing? After all, the engine can't wag at different speeds at each end of the block - it's a single solid item My guess (WARNING) is you end up with a different resonant frequency for the complete engine. And it might be that you completely upset the resonances in the setup to your advantage I've never done it, I do wonder if different stiffness mounts front and back would be a good thing Richard
  22. Oooh no - that's not right Things go wrong, and they still go on running Without engine mounts Richard
  23. Attached to what - a skyhook?
  24. Kick the pin a couple of times at 90 degrees, then pull it out using the mooring line through the loop Richard
  25. We sell them fairly often along with the metal cased lip seals Richard
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