Durhamdales

That's why watersealed gas holders (the ones that you see go up and down) are safe - they don't explode..... if punctured when full e.g. with a flame torch, they set alight only where the gas escapes under pressure into the the air and then the whole holder slowly deflates until it sinks into it's own bath of water and self extinguishes. I believe that is exactly what happened when the IRA bombed Greeenwich Holder Station - the holder burned until it was submerged and extinguished itself

How much of the interior needs to get stripped out for a job like this generally?

Exactly the same issues; I lay mine horizontally along some paper towel to check the level. I believe that if you don't screw the plug back in and simply rest it on top of the casing, then the bottom line is actually now equivalent to the full line. Obviously screw it down when you have finished checking it!

On their website, its says that online is included

So what happens when I am sitting in a (steel) deck chair, enjoying a nice cup of tea when someone chucks the cables from a genny into the canal a few feet away (is that how its done?) - do I go the same way as the fish!!!

Could someone explain the tests one can carry out with a test meter to check that everything is connected properly please? I can check voltage or for electrical connection. Most of the time (when we are not on board) the battery master switches are off and we are only connected to 240 vis a Galvanic Isolator Battery earth to hull, engine to hull etc.? Thanks

From memory, I think the prop was 20x17. No rev counter, so unable to state revs. I'm running a 2:1 reduction if that helps

Can't see it being ventilation as the counter at the rear is about 3inches under and will go down even further when underway. I also replaced the weed hatch seal in case it was sucking in air that way

Last year I changed my engine from a Kelvin P4 to a Perkins D3. My counter was always in the water by some way and I never suffered cavitation at all. The D3 is obviously lighter and although the counter was still in the water, the cavitation noise was really evident I added some extra ballast (it's now deeper than ever) and things have improved, however sometimes it returns, when the only thing that will stop it is to slow down I get the feeling that it is shallow canals that give me a problem. Has anyone found it to be depth dependent? I am probably spinning the prop faster, but a recent prop calc showing that I am not far off optimum. Can I be too deep, could that cause it? Any ideas folks?

Whilst being nowhere near posh enough to own a Russell Newbery, we joined their club members for an organised trip from Ellesmere Port into Liverpool (as crew). It was amazing, there was about a dozen boats going, with the first having the pilot on board. I would think a pilot would be an essential - I'm not sure I would want to be out there on my own though, as there are times when you are a LONG way from the bank. We were told to creep up the south shore until we got to a certain point at which we had to turn to cross the Mersey. The tide was incredible and we watched the boats turn across it and immediately end up well behind us. You will need a survey to get onto the MSC. I would talk to the RN Register - they were a very friendly and helpful group. The moment of arriving in Liverpool Docks was amazing though and a great time was had in Liverpool. Not one to be taken lightly, but well worth the trip

Mine doesn't do this

There used to a yard next to Nauticalia in Shepperton that was very much DIY focussed and aimed at the older boat rather than the posh newer craft. It was a few years ago, but I think this link may help http://www.pushtheboatout.com/acatalog/Mooring_@_Shepperton_Marina.html They have their own slipway

I agree regarding the entry prices - we paid our £16 per head plus car parking charges to visit last winter - a good proportion of the exhibits were shut down and we decided that after years of visiting (often with visitors from overseas), that this would be our last time. A real shame to see it in decline

I wonder what the poor man's widow would make of this post. Hopefully she won't read it

I prefer 'somebody died and that might have been avoided by wearing a life jacket' But at the end of the day, it's your life and you are free to lose it anyway you like; personally I will wear one in tunnels from now on.

But if you knock yourself out in a tunnel, or bang your head on the stern - a self inflating life jacket would be a very useful thing. This is appallingly sad episode - I for one will learn from it and will wear a life jacket in tunnels

Thanks folks, it sounds like the original prop was the right one after all. Unfortunately too late to stop the new one arriving! Anybody need a nice new (cheap) 18 prop??

Try Robeys of Belper - ask for Malcolm

Most of the 'trade' - including the big sheds use Hafele for this type of thing It is a massive resource for designers etc. Have a look here - they might have what you want

Last year we had a D3 put into Marcellus and whilst it is in dock, I thought that we should check the prop to ensure that it is matched to the new engine. The boatyard have told me that it needs a 18x11 prop whereas the old one was 20x 16. They reckon that the D3 is 32hp and have done the calcs based on this, whereas I always thought it was 50hp - this could mean the difference between a £350 new prop or not I think! Does anyone happen to know the figure, it has proved difficult to find online, although I have found a couple of references to 50hp. It's a D3, not an AD3 Any advice much appreciated

£99 - and its nearly 5 feet long!