Mad Harold

To be sure you need two adjustable spanners. One imperial,and one metric.?

Had my last boat blacked at Furness Vale.It is a covered dry dock and they steam cleaned my hull for £45 (2018) I think that doing your own blacking is allowed,but check.

The boat moored next to me with a new owner had the same problem.I also had it on my old boat. It may not be the cause here,but simply revving the engine after start up energised the alternator and the red light went out.

From your picture your boat looks to be a Norman 22 mk3.Quite old,but nothing wrong with that as the older boats were usually made with thicker fibreglass than more modern computer designed hulls. I had pretty much the same problems with engine cooling as you,on my last boat,and advice from Tony and others helped solve them. You will like me learn how to solve boaty problems quickly,with the help of this forum. I do think that buying a boat is rather like taking up with a new woman,in that you don't really know her untill you have lived with her for a year. Please keep us informed how you are getting on. Best of luck.

I used brass wire mesh rolled into a tube shape,and inserted into the seacock. The mesh is available on e bay and is used mainly in model making.It comes in various densities,and if I remember correctly,I used the type with 2mm spacing gaps. On some days it did block frequently,depending on how "weedy"the canal was. I made the strainer inspection part of my pre-cruising checks,and had no trouble with blockages. It was simply a matter of unscrewing the cap on the seacock,pulling the strainer out and swishing it in the canal.

I too noticed this,but assumed the OP had removed them to check water circulation,(I hope he has) otherwise as you understate the engine will of course overheat almost at once.

When water stops ciculating,the first check with raw water cooling is the water inlet.There will probably be a mesh strainer in the seacock inlet,leading to a Vetus type water filter.There may or may not be a mudbox.Filters of course must be clear of weed and debris. Another rare blockage can occur if the feed pipe to the water pump has a 90 degree junction on it,a build up of sludge here will block the water flow. This happened on my last boat.Took me ages to diagnose the blockage.+

You may have something wrapped around the prop,or it may be loose on it's shaft.

It will look HORRIBLE Anyway,I thought boats in your area were painted "London White"

You are insulting one of the most experienced and helpful members of this forum. I suggest that YOU go away.

I have used Steradent tablets to remove tea stains in a teapot. Found them very effective.

Thanks for the clarification.I know What instrument you mean now.The name "Borascope"was unfamiliar to me. I have seen aircraft engineers use them for inspecting wing spars and engine internals.The ones I saw had tiny LED lights on the end and the engineer used to look at the aircraft internals on a laptop.They had a special name,but because of old age and crushing penury,I can't remember what it was. While we are on the subject,would a cheap ultra sound tester be any use when looking at a steel boat? Once saw an ad for a narrowboat and the vendor showed a photo of one of these instruments on the inside of the baseplate showing 11mm thickness. As it was an old boat,I didn't believe it. Perhaps the bottom had been overplated twice!

Hate showing my ignorance,but whats a borescope? It does sound like an instrument for avoiding the pub bore.

Decided on a trip up the Huddersfield Narrow (Ha Ha Ha). But first rather than rely on stoppage notices,I decided to look for myself. Lock 1E chained and padlocked with a Shire Cruiser's boat in the lock.He'd been there for three hours waiting for a CRT man to unlock it.When he arrived he apologised profusely but had been called to lock 13E because some cretin had rammed the lock gate,and knocked it off it's hinge.He reckoned it would need a crane to put it back,so that will take time. I asked the man if he would leave lock 1E unlocked but he said he wasn't allowed. The Shire Cruiser will have to turn around spoiling the skipper and his two kids holiday.Then ring CRT to unlock lock 1E again when he returns.The reason lock 1E is padlocked is because some joker (who has a waterways key) keeps winding the paddles up,and that pound takes forever to fill. I feel really sorry for the boater and his kids,as their introduction to boating and the Huddersfield Narrow will be memorable for the wrong reasons.

I don't have one,but a fellow boater tells me it's time to empty the tank when the boat takes on a pronounced list.

Before setting off I always check the stoppage notices. Planned a weeks trip from Aspley Wharf to Sowerby Bridge to Dewsbury and then back.Checked the notices and noted all the flood locks on the Calder were listed as closed.Cancelled my trip,and while messing about on my boat yesterday a Shire Cruisers hire boat came into Huddersfield from Sowerby Bridge! Asked the skipper about the flood locks (he would have passed the Anchor Pit) and he looked rather blank. The flood locks are obviously open (I drove up to the Cooper Bridge flood lock) and that was open. Am quite annoyed that I cancelled my trip because CRT doesn't keep stoppage notices up to date. Unless these notices are kept up to date,then I think they are rather pointless.

In a small grp boat,usually no ballast. Opinions do vary however,and I have come across some grp boaters who put ballast in the bow to make the boat track straighter.I have tried that with my Norman 20,but found no difference in the handling so I removed it. A light grp boat will rock a bit when people move around,so just tell them to sit down!

I assume you are using one line secured to the middle of the roof,and is rubbing the handrail when bringing your boat to a halt? On mine,I simply used two lines secured to the handrails.There was no rubbing.

The Macclesfield is listed as having a 7ft max beam for the locks. Best option is road transport to a wide canal. You have my sympathy if you really needed a 6'10" beam boat,it seems you have been misled with the paperwork. You might try the vendor to see if you can get your money back,but they are not legally obliged to do so. If a 6'10" boat is essential for your needs, then your only option is to sell and buy another. If you have a Nicholson's guide,it gives the dimensions of the waterways. To find the correct dimensions of any boat you are interested in, then try to google the manufacturers original brochure.Failing that take your tape to measure any potential purchase.

Just looked at stoppages,and it says all flood locks on the C and H are closed. I am moored at the moment at lock 1 on the Hudd Broad. Walked across the road and saw that Cooper Bridge flood lock is open! Don't know if its safe to travel. Will ring CRT later.

You could (if your aestetic sense allows,)put a bag of logs or a couple of flower planters over the seam. I have seen the odd boat with stuff on the roof.?

Whatever is used will only be temporary. The roof gets very hot in the sun,and very cold at night.With the expansion and contraction,the filler will sooner or later unstick. The paintable mastic sounds the best idea,in that it will be easy to remove and replace when it deteriorates. Mastic tape as used for fitting windows would be easier to get a smooth finish,rather than the stuff from a tube.

Just been on CRT stoppage notices,all flood gates on R.Calder closed! Huddersfield Narrow work on locks 1E to 12E so no boat trip. Boat filled with fuel,oil and battery checked,changes of clothes,bedding set up,and stocked with food and beer. All dressed up,and nowhere to go! As swearing is frowned on on CWF, I feel like going on Thunderboat to have a good swear. I hear that they are a bit more relaxed about bad language there.

Minimise leccy use and fit a small solar panel.My 10W trickle charge solar panel is about 1ft square. If your outboard has a pull start as well as electric,use the pull start as much as possible.