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Proteus

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  • Boat Name
    Scutage
  • Boat Location
    Lincoln

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  1. Find attached images of the issue. Red oxide cover to protect it while we sort out the best option. Looking all the options suggested so far, it’s turned into quite the conversation piece it seems thank you for all the suggestions so far
  2. The plates dip toward the join along the full length of the roof curve. It has been double welded and the weld sits proud by 5mm ish. When built it has been filled to give the impression of no seam. The roof plates rise by approx 8mm from the seam to the roof level. The bad filler has been removed to leave a 150mm scar. We don’t know how far further the filler goes but the rest of the roof is stable. Last time it was repaired with isopon and that has lasted 3 years before cracking. Just looking for a better alternative. This is an older shell and very sound, we have no plans to chop the roof just return it to its previous build standard
  3. I have a double welded roof seam joining two roof plates. To level the roof out and ‘disappear’ the seam the builder has used a body filler to conceal it. This has failed and cracked after a few years. I presume it is due to expansion and contraction of the roof due to the direct sun and weather, along with vibration and movement in all boats. The scar To be filled is approx 1200/150/7mm I am looking potentially at Devcon fillers and a two pac elasticised paint unless anyone has a better suggestion. Thank you
  4. Thank you both for your replies. Unfortunately I can’t currently afford a new PRM 150 box much as I’d like to. Due to the virus I’ve been offered a new refurb 120 (with guarantee) for less than a third of the price. This will do as an interim measure as long as the exchange is simple(ish) The engine is a Vetus M4.15 with 700 hours on it, installation time wise it is well out of warranty. Long term I’d look to upgrade so wish not to jeopardise this option. Dor i would be very interested in your article for further reference.
  5. Advice please. Is a PRM 120D a direct swap for a technodrive 60. Are there any issues I should be aware of. The ratio of both units is the same. it would be going onto a Vetus block Thank you
  6. I have a technodrive 60 on a Vetus engine with 750 hours on it. Forward is fine (with the clunk) On selecting reverse 3 out of 5 times the drive doesn’t engage. The prop shaft will rotate slowly but there is no clunk or engagement. If you rev the engine revs but prop shaft stays at same speed. Other times the reverse drops straight in (with clunk) (but never when you need it) occasionally it will engage after 7-10 seconds in reverse. Checked oil, and cables (happened when operated with no cables attached today). It obviously works some of the time but not others. I have traweled the web for answers, read the manual and every gearbox post on this forum. Has anyone got any advise please. I’m aware they do not seem to be highly regarded it’s what I’ve got, for the moment. Thank you
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