Tiggs

And try not to spend so much that you could have bought a better, more complete boat for the overall price (this may be difficult).

Looks OK. If the hull survey is good and you like it then I suggest you make an offer for it. I don't know about Gary Gorton, but I know JD boats are ok as fitters.

I think you are worrying about nothing. Providing everything is fastened down correctly and the pipes are installed correctly there should be no issues. If you use one of the V shaped stores you will need to fix the top as well flange to a wall. You have to have the stove fixed down anyway - for BSS. I've had boats with copper pipes of all sizes and plastic pipes too, and never had any issues with them. Long copper pipes need to be set up to allow for expansion and contraction, these have banged into things all over the canal network and some rivers too.

Is it on the bottom of the base plate as well? And is that good? And what cruising has it done? Rivers only or rivers and canals? It's about time there was a confirmed effective coating for narrowboats - is this it?

Is a Webasto Thermo Top C big enough to power 6 radiators like this + a towel rail + a calorifier?

We had two 28mm pipes, part of the central heating system running through the main wardrobe and never had any such problems - if you can contrive to fit a small radiator just a couple of heating pipes inside the bottom rear and add some vents at the top and bottom, that should sort it.

Since they were built. When they were used commercially no fishing was allowed at all. What's more, people were not allowed to walk along the towpaths.

Canals are for boats not for fishing.

When you have driven it back to London you will need a permanent mooring (probably) just be aware that it costs a lot.

Most lock keepers are good. I have come across bad ones very occasionally.

If you look at an old wooden window cill you will see underneath channel or groove which the water drips from. If your roof had something like this it might help preserve the wooden frame and may help the sealing.

A couple of things, You don't have to bolt it down using the holes in the feet provided. It just has to be fixed somehow, so you could bolt or weld brackets to the back and fix it to the wall. I did come across one boat where the hearth was not fastened down so despite the stove being bolted to it wasn't safe.

More lies from the stupid Express. (Actually this was the paper my parents had, but only because of the crossword, which my mother did every day)

1. Don't know why you need a sight glass, we never had one. Just a stick to go in the filler. 2. I thought that boats were not allowed to have sight glasses - but this might be build regulations not BSS 3. It seams like a lot of trouble, can't you just fit a mirror 4. Or even a USB camera (less than a fiver) and the answer to your question appears to be 500mm / 20 inchs is an appropriate limit http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/boat-examination/non-private-boats/part-2-inboard-engines/fixed-fuel-feeds/ Suggest you read the rest of the requirements for fuel pipes and for fuel tanks etc on this link - note that this is for non-private boats so 24 inches could well be ok, but if you comply with 20 inches an examiner cannot reject it. (IMO its another badly written reg, clearly a fuel pipe 3 inch dia and 1/4 inch thick walls made from Inconel could be about 6 ft long between supports in a typical boat engine room)

When commercial companies are being criticised and threaten to take legal action against a forum that is run only on a voluntary basis there is no choice but to delete the thread / criticisms. (I have no idea if this happened in this instance.) If you enjoy this forum please support or at least tolerate the moderators.

Although efficiency of the various units is a factor, there is a fundamental amount of energy available from the two fuels and the price per KWh based on that is the main factor in how much your heating will cost to run. This makes diesel heating much cheaper.

I suppose you have checked all the usual stuff in the manual, including the air filter for example? Are there any fault codes displayed?

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=63018 Also, On the Rayburn fitted to our old boat it used 28mm pipes and these had a slight upward slope to them, the header was so close to the ceiling that it was tricky to fill it, but it need not be a very large tank if you check it often.

I think you need to check the rules and check with the CRT before you do this. A motor without a engine is still a motor, (which is what they might say).

Depends which way he was going - the air goes one way through Harecastle with big fans at one end. I can't remember if they suck or blow.

There's an interesting story about a steam boat which was refused the use of Harecastle tunnel: this was eventually resolved... This person sounds like an idiot jobsworth and should not be working for CRT. Many older boats smoke and as David says the tunnel is seriously vented.

Put starter motor circuit into Google Images I often find its better to search images for things I am looking for. Select the third image and click visit page http://www.tb-training.co.uk/MarineE06.html

http://betamarine.co.uk/keel-cooling-calculations/ Yes, that would be my solution too; though the heat exchanger might not have to be engine mounted. Some GRP boats use external pipes for gearbox oil cooling, three or four 1/2 inch pipes 3 ft long. External pipes tend to be much more efficient at cooling than skin tanks, but if used on a canal these would need to be steel or protected from impact damage.

Not sure that a keel cooler is appropriate for this engine on this boat. If you were fitting this to a steel narrowboat it would need to be 14 sq ft.