BWM
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Everything posted by BWM
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It may be worth trying the old spark plug, I recently bought a new one and had to replace the plug immediately, due to similar problems.
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A lot of useful information in the article, I didn't realise that the spectrum could be altered at source, rather than applying a filter. I've grown orchids, fuchias, tomatoes and various other plants under HID lighting, and also maintained turf on long term film sets in studios, but the choice of LED wasn't available at that time.
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Aquatic plants are adapted to lower, diffused light and are not comparable to a high energy, fruiting plant. The colour adjusted fluorescent aquarium lights of the past were never used in serious horticulture, but more common office type bulbs would produce reasonable results.
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The light source needs to be within a certain spectrum but outside of quite a wide range, quantity is more important. Prior to the availability of LED, high intensity discharge were the norm in horticulture and spectrum wise, metal halide had a better colour range but a high pressure sodium was more efficient-watt for lumen. In general, colour adjustment filters output.
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Is it safe to assume that it is a single source, rather than the multi coloured one in the eBay listing? There is also quite a difference between growing a plant under artificial light, and generating a viable harvest of whatever the fruit of choice may be.
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I doubt that you could even grow cress successfully with these, the spectrum being less important than total quantity of light delivered, with rare exceptions (I.e, low pressure sodium light).
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There are many different flavours and strengths of chilli peppers, and they are satisfying to grow. If you are serious about growing them indoors on the long term, a slightly raised skylight combined with decent horticultural Led's as supplemental lighting, both to boost light levels and adjust day length, would be less heavy on resources.
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I meant shaky as a very cheap component, not fit for use. I've not used a Clarke generator for some time but at the price I doubt their reliability used daily.
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This one looks a little thirsty!
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Clarke generators are poor, ok for someone using occasionally but not for a regular power supply.
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Quite often if your space is limited, and inevitably to access the top loading. We had one that lasted for years, in that time a small, concertina'd, plastic was the only item that failed (easily replaced). We bought an alternative waste water hose, as the one supplied was very shaky.
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One advantage of these, despite their size, is that they are extremely light. The downside of this is that you have to load the spinner fairly evenly or they get a wobble on.
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Definitely worked as described, using got water delivered by a paloma, but unfortunately I don't know the detail of the machine he altered.
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You can tell i'm not an electrician!
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Some years back, a friend of mine disconnected the heating element in a washing machine and managed to run it off a low voltage inverter. Not sure if you could still do this with a more modern machine?
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I wonder if this engine is the equivalent of the roadside offers of years ago, speakers, video recorders, etc. with the insides all found to be full of bricks instead of electrical components, when opened at home?
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In the mid eighties I worked at a garage maintaining black cabs, one particularly cold year diesel tanks were freezing up and those who didn't suffer from it said they added a small amount of petrol before filling up with derv.
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Not all mushroom vents use brass studding for the threaded part, and left unused will seize quite easily.
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When our boat was in for rebottoming I installed a stainless water tank and noticed that grinding waste had attached itself to the tank, you couldn't easily brush it off, not scientific but something I observed. I didn't realise that stainless formed a coating, is it similar to the oxidized surface found on aluminium?
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The only reason for suggesting bitumen is because it would appear that it is vapour rather than liquid escaping, and a cheap, temporary solution. In no way would it constitute a viable long term repair. I wonder if the top has failed due to grinding debris? Was told by someone that the steel dust from grinding locks onto the stainless and acts similarly to an anode, rusting at an accelerated rate.
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Extant full length butty's and horse boats
BWM replied to pete harrison's topic in History & Heritage
How does this butty built at Stockton fit in (second from the left), a large Northwich replica?
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Tank must be porous, urine does create chrystaline deposits in drainage systems. If you can't afford to replace the tank I wonder if you cleaned the deposits off, and then paint the affected areas with bitumen might get you out of trouble temporarily?
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I bought a stainless one from Denham Yacht station, Uxbridge. Not particularly cheap though.
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I have seen craft that have been rebottomed with steel to replace a wooden base, these clearly show a step up at both stem and stern posts rather than the usual level base.
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I'm not convinced that a craft with an elm bottom is deeper than the equivalent with a steel baseplate. The bottom is at the same depth because it is inset.
