Bazza954

If you have a landline connection, I'm presuming you have a GI fitted. My boat is wired as :- 230v earth through GI, outlet side to MCB and to hull. Earth cable from MCB to hull at same point as other cable between neg on battery, to hull at same point, surmising that they ,domestic and starter battery are joined at the neg connection there is an opinion that the 230v earth and the 12v neg/earth should be on separate earth points, not sure why. Best to drill and bolt a connection somewhere. Bazza

Some of the advise for winding re Aire & Calder and the L&L is a bit odd. Leeds Lock closure winding at Castleford junction ????

Seconded, my missus hates it, she'll be happy now

The power saver auto and power saver off positions on the sterling panel only apply if the 230v power is being supplied from the inverter. if you are having to switch to power saver off to get 230v, then the power is coming from the inverter. The power saver auto position keeps the inverter off until there is a current draw ie you switch something on, with enough draw to turn on the inverter. If your shore power is on, you shouldn't have to do this. What position is your off, shore/inverter switch, are the shore and inverter separate positions ? as mross says try and put some pictures up. Bazza

Oops, missed the OP was a she, apologies. Not with the sterling pile of crap !!!!! It's a battery boiler. What inverter do you have Nick ? bazza

The problem with that is, it also has a brain which resembles said brick. I have a sterling pro combi s 2500w, you can be connected to a shore line for weeks and sterling keeps batteries on float, one glitch/cutout in the power supply causes the unit to go straight back to boost charge when the shore power comes back on, even though batteries were fully charged 100% on SG. The same applies when returning from cruising, sterling goes straight to boost when connected to shore line. Its not that intelligent. The OP probably heard the inverter while it was on float charge (quiet) soon as he disconnects shore power and reconnects it will go straight into boost, hence he said it was loud. Bazza

Great news, hope all goes ok from now. bazza

Just a question no one has asked, did you premix your new antifreeze with water before putting it in the engine, if you just put an amount of antifreeze in first, then topped up with water this could cause a problem with circulation. Don't ask me how I know !! Bazza

The OP picture is a Collingwood, I have one. It will have welded bars at one end and bolted on on the other end of the tube to allow you to get at the screws on the prop. crap idea needs a weed hatch. The reason they have the stupid cowl over the end of the thruster tube is because the tube is nowhere near as deep in the water as it should be, as defined in the handbook for vetus thrusters, it stops them sucking air, apparently. ha ha ha !! what I was told . More likely to try stop floating crap getting in, which it sounds like the OP has. Mine works better with a full water tank than empty as its lower in the water. I met a chap in skipton who had a lump of angle iron in his thruster tube, left in from manufacture !!!!! another Collingwood boat. Bazza

Exactly, have a greeny or whatever they are called these days.

Yes Robbo, Are all disused fuel filling points disabled? that is all in regard to fuel filling points, nowhere does it say specifically, your pump out must be marked up, that was my point. My pump out is not labelled.

I can't find that in the BSS, or are you just jesting ? the only ones they concerned with are fuel, it would appear.

If you have a weed hatch in your tunnel, as stated, it's easy. If its on the prop side of the thruster, where it should be, there are only 2 screws to undo, a plastic collar to remove and the props off, it should come out through your weed hatch, watch out for the sheer pin dropping out and yes it is all by feel, I know. been there, done it. bazza

Hi, I fitted one last November, it had gland entries and 6mm studding with nuts/ washers for the connections, connections on end of cable were ring terminals. ETA It was pale blue not yellow as shown. Bazza

You're right about the dog shit, it's everywhere. The dog walking locals are a disgusting lot in my opinion. The sanitary station was being used as a shelter for the local weed smoking kids the last time we were there (lock broken ) and a local window cleaner comes most days and fills his 1000 ltr tank in the back of his van from the water point !, when it was locked, he had his own key !! Bazza

Hi, this is a vetus 4.14 as in my old boat, it had skin tank cooling and it also had an expansion/header tank on the bulkhead, you can see the pipe coming off the engine where the water filler cap is. The cap on the engine was just that, a cap, the expansion /header tank had the sprung loaded pressure cap. When the engine was cold there was no water showing in this tank and I seem to remember that the water level in the engine was just below the filler neck. When hot, there was water in the expansion /header tank. Hope this helps Bazza

sadly it looked like this in july last year, be nice to see it used again.

Hi, yes I used the same company, Paul was really helpful in my search for what I needed. links, watering kit all supplied. Still a good price on new cells. Bazza

Me too mines red as well, Mike will love that !! ETA : we have double glazing, but as said you still get condensation on the aluminium frames.

From Stockbridge (Keighley) to Bradley currently resembles a mud bath. Bradley to Skipton towpath improvements last year. bazza

Ooops missed your post here's who I used for the liner http://www.duratank.com/ Bazza

A further thank you all for the further comments and confirmation as to leave them alone, MtB they are possibly slightly heavier than the 300kg I quoted for all 6, but they do make great ballast and they balance my boat as they are at one side. Boat was originally heavy to port side but now sits even after batteries were installed to starboard, boat 12 feet wide. Bazza

Thanks to all for the advise, I'm glad really, didn't fancy lugging 300kg of batteries about, it was hard enough installing in first place. Bazza

That's an interesting statement, it made me wonder if your boat is a Liverpool or a Collingwood, whatever they are probably both the same design. I have a Collingwood, my water tank never seemed to last long when filled right up and it was supposed to hold 150 gallon. 600ltr ish. my tank is under the well deck with access under the front steps, I had a good look, then worked out what the problem was. The base plate of the boat is curving upwards toward the bow and the tank is sat on wood battens, also making the tank sit at a jaunty angle. I then noticed that the tank was fabricated with both the filling and vent connection on the same side of the tank, low side as it sits in the boat. So the problem lies there, the tank never fully vents so does not fill right up. I removed mine and replaced with a liner that now holds 1250 ltrs. Bazza

On my boat I have a domestic battery bank made up of 6 x 2v 840ah @C5 traction batteries in series to give 12v. There's nowt wrong with them, but I was wondering if it may be a good idea to maybe, on a yearly basis, move them one place along in the queue as it were, to rotate the sequence of cells so the +ve and the -ve are not always on the same two cells if you see what I mean. Any thoughts on this from the collective ? Bazza