NMEA

Perfectly normal setup on many Boats, in fact you can't buy a Surecal or any other major manufacturer's model without an immersion element any longer.

Also the voltage.

A lot depends on the make and model as they vary in price, quality and desirability quite a bit.

As it will be of course.

How is it going to be possible to turn on a zpropex when away from the boat? The gas bottle will be turned off surely.

I would agree with all of the above with the addition of thigh straps instead of a crotch strap, more comfortable and mote secure during recovery.

Central heating ones are different as they expect to have rust inhibitor in the system. Potable types both hot and cold water should have non ferrous materials only in contact with the water, as you say they are generally white, blue or plastic bit this is a convention rather than an absolute, any good plumbers merchant will provide the correct type.

Sadly not but I think she should change her name by deed poll.

Her number is 07947 180099 and email is jaywhitesparkes@gmail.com she should be able to sort you out OK.

I am far to booked up bit my colleague Jay may be able to help, she is properly qualified and very reliable.

Why people don't ùse the proper marine inlets like Ratio or Marinco is beyond me, not only are they of the correct IP rating but flush fitting. Actually I do know why, they cost more.

I really don’t know where this mantra came from, probably domestic situations where each socket is assumed to accept only a fused plug rated for the appliance load. In hardwired situations a fuse is there to protect the downstream circuit which includes but is not limited to cable, the fuse should be rated to protect the weakest component downstream of it. As a for instance, a 25mm2 cable is used to prevent volt drop to a pump using a 150a fuse at source to protect the cable as per mantra could easily cause a winding fire in a failure event or at least destroy an otherwise saveable component unless there is a smaller correctly rated fuse installed closer to the pump.

Marine AC units work exactly the same as air cooled units but via a water cooled condenser, very much like the difference between an air cooled and water cooled engine. The are however very power hungry. I have never installed one on a narrowboat but have installed the Webasto ones on sea going craft that have generators and or shore power in the marina.

The thing is nearly 15 years old, personally I wouldn't touch it.

Though some of them do work, many require inputs from the donor vehicle's sensors to work, they all have one major disadvantage against a marine or Motor Caravan unit in that they cut out at a higher voltage to protect the vehicles ability to start. Along with the heater base you would require a loom, the correct calibrated dosing pump and also the D5W exhaust is a different size, though that is less of an issue as adaptor sleeves are available. The link is unavailable so I can not comment on the suitability or otherwise.

It is one of the boxes used in the early days of BSS for narrowboat kits, rubber fuel hose of no type was permitted then, it contains the dosing pump and rubber hose joints to the copper pipe, also the plastic pulse damper which is no longer used. Personally I would discard it, mount the pump normally with rubber mount and 7840 hose joiners after discarding the pulse damper. It should have had 5mm bulkhead compression fittings for the copper tube and a gromet for the cable, all those parts came with the kit but some people are lazy or think they know better.

To do it correctly yes, otherwise you may just have well used an MX40 or Webasto TTE, when I'm planning an install the heater is the last thing I specify, 1) How many kw to heat the boat properly? 2) can I get those rads or matrix in and if so where? then choose the heater to power the rads.

Bloody predictive text

only after the coolant return temperatures reach the required level. Actually anything below what I wrote earlier is not good for them as it causes excessive cycling so be aware that it will require more frequent decking.

Best use the kw rating for the radiators, look up the same size and type on screwfix site and get the kw that way ic needs be. The MX60 should be loaded with about 7kw. Ignore the calorifier.

Absolutely agree on the wiring and one of the reasons I do it that way. Full chat consumption is published as .86l assuming the heater is properly tuned (which it is unlikely to be) and .43l at low setting. Electrical consumption is not published apart from the max of 16.5a at start up but my observations on my calibrated power supply during testing is typically up to 18a during start up and a normal running consumption on high of around 8a. It should be remembered that these things are very old technology (a double edged sword) and therefore not even close to the efficiency of modern heaters. By the way any control timer with volt free switching will work with these heaters. It is a simple timer with no thermostatic control and therefore best suited, the PRT-B is a good unit and I use them on PJ heaters which are happy with cycling, I guess you could use one and crank up the temperature.

I normally wire in series, timers have an overide switch anyway, its useful to be able to just turn the whole thing off without affecting the timer settings. Not a fan of battery powered timers but a good 12v one is the Heatmiser TM1-N, they take very little power.

OK, you will need to do a bit of tracing with a meter, the control switching uses pins 1, 6 & 20 on the control box (ecu) Get it installed and working using the manual switch before you start making any mods, then you will know if you have a correctly wotking unit or not before continuing with installing the timer, you should keep the switch in the circuit along with the timer anyway.

This should be the type of switch you Have?

Under no circumstances use the thermostat. Wire direct to battery with a fuse. Thermostats and TRV cause excess cycling and increase service costs. Wiring direct to the battery is the way to do it correctly, though wiring to the permenant live side of the isolator is also acceptable if it is easier, this has nothing to do with voltage drop though, if the heater accidentally has the power to it cut whilst still in full burn it can cause damage as it will just stop dead and the latent heat in the exhanger will not be removed by the coolant. The heater should always go through its controlled shut down cycle where the chamber is purged and the circulation pump continues to run for some time untill the heat exchanger cools to a safe level. Heaters are one of the componenst listed by BSS as acceptable for wiring with no isolator.