Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Software Developer
  • Boat Name
  • Boat Location

Recent Profile Visitors

2143 profile views
  1. I read this on the web... The vacuum breaker is an important component of a bibcock valve or toilet flush valve. The purpose of this valve is to prevent contaminated water from backing up into the drinking water system if the public water system's pressure drops suddenly. It is important that the vacuum breaker is working its best 24/7. ...maybe I'd be best getting a new one. The regulator on my gas bottle went this winter as well which had also served me for 20+ years. Maybe the cold has been taking its toll.
  2. OK, thanks Pearley, but mine is dripping from the top rather than where it goes into the porcelain. Hiya Bee, where was your leak coming from / which bit did you tape up?
  3. Hiya Pearley, Excuse my ignorance - which is the "barbed" part? (Mine is dribbling from that circular dome/cap at the top of the photo.)
  4. When I flush my toilet for longer than a second or two, water drips from the top of this part behind the toilet (see attached photo) From https://www.norfolkmarine.co.uk/shop-online/sealand-vacuum-breaker-assembly-dometic-3606-toilet-p-26979.html?osCsid=530f18eaabbecb630fd95d2b846fa59b , it looks like the part is called a vacuum breaker assembly (VBA). But I'm not sure why it's started dripping. I've taken the VBA off. Blocking its outlet with my hand, I don't have to blow that hard into the inlet for my breath to come out of the escape hole at the top (which is where the water is dribbling out from). Do I need a new VBA? They cost £50, so what would the consequences be if, instead, I just blocked off the escape hole with some sealant? If it's not the VBA that's the problem (or I shouldn't seal it off), I'm wondering if my water pump pressure / flow rate could be too high? Or maybe there is a blockage in the toilet flushing parts somewhere? Any other suggestions/input welcome. Cheers, James
  5. Thanks for the replies. What I could do is take the feet off the new stove, trim the flue and then put the stove in place, and then put the feet back on, but I'd really like to get the flue right off as it really needs rubbing down and respraying. So I'm wondering if it may be a good idea to remove the flue+collar together, then hopefully I'll be able to get a bit more purchase on them once they're on the ground? Then, if necessary, I could apply heat to the collar before trying to prise it off? I'll take it easy with the collar, but is it OK to give the flue a few whacks?
  6. Does anyone have any tips on how to separate the flue from the top collar? I've tried pulling, tapping and twisting the flue but all I've managed to do is put my back out... I can't see any sign of a rope on either side but there does seem to be sealant on the top side. There is a fair amount of corrosion (top and bottom) which I've chipped out as much as I can.
  7. Thanks for the latest replies. I didn't measure up properly - my existing flue is actually 4.5" OD. Midland Chandlers had the socket adaptor I needed - https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/store/category/1882/product/hf-462.aspx . Approx. £20 inc. p&p, so have just ordered it. Thanks again.
  8. OK, thanks for the replies. Presumably, the rope/silicon is on the underside of the collar (rather than outside)? Does anyone know the proper name for the adapter / where I can get one?
  9. I (incorrectly) thought my flue had an OD of 5", so I've bought a 5.5KW multifuel stove with a 5" flue connection. However, having now received the stove, I've realised my flue is approx. 4" OD. In the paperwork that comes with the stove, I think it said that a 5" flue diameter is required for stoves up to 9KW. Given that my stove is only 5.5KW, would it be OK to connect my 4" flue to it? If so, is there an adapter I can buy? And can anyone advise on how to disconnect my flue from the collar that sits on the narrowboat roof? I can't see anything that needs untightening, but I cannot get it to budge. What is the knack to get the flue off? (Actually, I just need to rotate it a bit so the new stove can be positioned in the best place.) It's quite an old flue, though, so I need to be careful with it / not hit it too hard... :-/ :-) Thanks, James
  10. So I should aim for 7KW of radiators?
  11. OK, thanks. Am I right in thinking that if I keep the load below 3.5KW then the MX60 will run in low mode (i.e., 0.43 litres per hour)?
  12. OK, thank you, both. Just found a Heatmiser TM1-N (12 volt timer) on ebay for £15, so I've gone for that. One final question re the MX60, does anyone know how many radiators (i.e., total surface area) it can power? Presumably, it could power two or three square meters of radiators and a calorifier comfortably?
  13. Re the wiring configuration, I think it's more important that OFF always means off (on the Mikuni switch) rather than ON always meaning on - esp. as there is a bulb lit up when it's in the ON position - and I'm trying to make coming back to a flat battery a thing of the past... So I'll wire up the timer in series. By the way, I got my MX60 fired up. Started up first time! Very smokey (as I think there must have been a lot of diesel sloshed around the heater during transit, etc.) but once that cleared it ran like a dream. Does anyone know how much current the MX60 typically draws and how much diesel they use? Incidentally, I asked Danfoss if they have a replacement for the BTS5 and they said the closest they have is the Danfoss TP5000 Si. Does anyone know if this would be a good option in terms of compatability with the MX60?
  14. Thanks, NMEA, so can the thermostat be disabled on this and it just be used as a basic timer? I think I would prefer a battery powered unit - do you think the Heatmiser PRT-B would be a safe bet?
  15. Just discovered that my Danfoss BTS5 timer has packed up and I can't find that model anywhere on the web. Can anyone recommend another battery-powered programmable timer?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.