Markinaboat

Can't find anything online other than for 600 chargers. Is this for the current model only or going back a year or three?

Wouldn't know if the chemicals would interact with the primer/oxide/bilge paint that they'd be resting on. But wouldn't hose compress under the weight of the slabs over a short period of time. The smallest amount of crud would surely build up and close the gaps.

If you use wood, get tanalised sawn timber. Not too expensive and won't rot unless left submerged for a couple of years. Make sure you lay them lengthwise so as not to prevent water from running astern.

http://www.easyfoam.co.uk/quoteM.php?FoamCutToShape=mattress&shape=Smattress&result=16200&length=75&width=54&size=5257&meas=in&msize=double&thickness=4 http://www.shipshapebedding.co.uk/memory%20foam.php http://sensationsleep.co.uk/made-to-measure-mattress/boat-mattresses/

Just to lighten things up a little, on Mrs Brown last week, she read out aloud from the newspaper "A Smart car previously reported as stolen was found to have been dragged into the drains by a rat" :-) I've got a Mastervolt Mass combi with the MV monitor. With the batteries charged, it displays 100% and 13.1v but maybe that's down to gel batteries? Even after a couple of weeks. If a couple of lights are on and the water pump running, it still says 100%.

Hi Bill, Found this old thread whilst searching for information due to my Dakar Combi 12/200/100 not charging after having been fine for a few years. I can hear the (relay?) click but it doesn't start charging. Everything else ok, batts good, charges well from engine etc. Just wondered if you found a resolution before I contact Mastervolt or Aquafax. Bets regards Mark

IMHO - Just a thought, does the Smartgauge have to be setup with the total AH of the batteries in the bank? i.e. you added a battery/ies but does the Smartgauge know that or is it still calculating on the previous total AH? Maybe a possible test would be to let the batteries run down until the inverter says no (should cut out 240v if unable to deliver) and check the % status at that point. It should be in the region of 40% but a higher reading could indicate a miscalculated reading.

Cheers Richard, something to look into once the mound of essential work has been done!

Sorry for delay but been out of action. All interesting stuff. My main concern as mentioned is if it stalls when I am away from the boat (at a lock etc), can't hear it running from more than a boat length or two away. I do like the idea of a remote starter though providing the cable length to the steering position of around 20 ft is viable. With regards to alternator damage, all I can relate is the fact that the previous owner was quite adamant of this issue having been a victim of it and he could not over-emphasise.

The engine start/restart procedure involves having to be in the engine room, it's 60yrs old! If you mean just an ignition (isoaltor) switch, then yes but as mentioned, the cable length could be an issue unless of a ridiculous size. Not yet sure if high amperage is involved in the ignition isolation.

I did consider running cables to isolate the ignition switch but feel that the run may be too long for an ignition circuit. Again, this would only help when on the boat.

Thanks for the replies... Indeed, an 'Alpha Pro' is Mastervolts offering of an Adverc, Stirling etc. It phases the amount of amps as well as monitoring the temperature of the batteries via sensors to ensure that batteries are fully charged and not just partially as in a car etc. It's a complex but professional system with a 160ah Leece Neville alternator that charges the domestic bank (4 x 200ah gels) at 12v and the starters (2 x 110ah traction) at 24v via a Mastervolt DC-DC converter. The previous owner as mentioned had to replace the alternator when the ignition had been left on beyond it's 'beep' beep' which occurs at 90-120 secs. SO I thought one of our electrical geniuses may have a solution which would in essence, switch the power off to the ignition. Very occasionally, the 1.7 ton Kelvin K3 stalls if the revs are reduced to a minimum in a hurry when in one of those 'oh shit' situations and to get down to the engine room in a hurry (or remembering to in such a situation) is not always practical.

Hi folks, Apologies for the lengthy title! Have now got the cooling system on the K3 in our new (used) boat working satisfactorily. Next up is the ignition system. The previous owners told us to be careful not to leave the ignition on for more than 90 secs as that is when the Alpha Pro kicks in. In fact, they were going to install an alarm/red light system for such occasions. as a long time boater/liveaboard, I doubt I would do that, however, what if the engine stalls when I'm at a lock or bantering away from the boat? Does anyone have any ideas/knowledge whereby a box of tricks could be installed that could sense the engine has stopped, or perhaps more importantly, that the charge has stopped and then switch off the ignition/disconnect the output supply from the Alpha Pro? Thanks Mark

If it spins for only, say, 3 seconds, then battery has most likely had it - not enough amps. Silly question but I assume it's not in gear?

If a pipe leaks on the low pressure side of the pump (from tank to pump), the pump will not run. Make your hole close to a bearer, you may see fixing points in the floor, also keep it to the side (if the boat lists to one side, make it that side). Then after you've made your hole, further inspections can be made as well as installing an additional bilge pump by cutting a larger, neater inspection square hole as an inspection hatch. Even if not near a steel bearer for support, you can just screw and glue timber edges (2 x 1 timber) under the floor so that they protrude into the cutout area which you can then screw the hatch down onto. Hope this makes sense!

Bought this a year or more ago - best money ever spent on an aerial. Works everywhere, even next to steel bridges. Get 100% strength and quality on my Humax. Bought from Maplins for around £55 but not sure if they're still doing it. http://www.oneforall.co.uk/digital-aerials/sv9455-full-hd-outdoor-tv-aerial.html

Hi Ed, There's a battery box according to the manual which you can download here. http://www.gasproducts.co.uk/pdf/Rinnai58eServiceManual.pdf Mark

When did he pass? He couldn't have been very old? sad news...

didn't do it for me but then I'm not a fan! ;-)

Don't use a mixer, keep the hot and cold separate and experiment with the temperature on the Morco until you get the right balance. I seem to remember form a couple of boats back that with a mixer, when it reaches the desired temperature, it can slow the hot flow enough for the Morco to stop firing above tickover so to speak, resulting in a cold surge that always hits the bits you'd rather it didn't!

Good point but they're not actually twisted around the wire - this was happening when they all had pipe cleaners before I replaced them. cheers

Hi, I know this thread is not recent but have just replaced the wicks on my K3. They were made up for me by Dick Goble. However, no 1 is still not draining down anywhere near as much as the other two. In fact, it leaks from around the base where the pot is bolted down (the others don't) so should empty quicker! Naturally, I ensured that the feed holes down to the rockers were clear with the oil pot off using the wire so am somewhat stumped! I am going to make a gasket to stop the oil from leaking around the rocker cover but this won't of course change the fact that it's not draining down as it should. Any ideas/comments much appreciated.

I would imagine that if reversed, the pump would pump in the wrong direction. It's usual to have an adjustable pipe thermostat attached to the hot supply from the stove/heating unit - this controls when the pump starts at a specified 'pipe temperature'. This wire then goes to the red on the pump via a manual override switch.