Chewbacka

200v at 65A going into your controller? That is 13Kw. or did you mean 200v going in and 12v 65A coming out? 12v at 65A is 780W. If this is a domestic install the voltage going into a grid tie inverter is often much higher than 200V Doing a quick google, some grid tie inveters don't even start below an actual input voltage of 150v so you may struggle to reduce the voltage going in.

Slipped of the gunnel landed standing up and not so deep, but both legs wet to well above my knees. That was many years ago and touch wood, not done it again - tempting fate now.............

10133 is for small craft with less than 50vDC. If it is not a small craft or is more than 50vDC then it does not apply. Then IEC60092 applies, but I will need to check the BSI site to be sure, and as you say, it is not coming out to play today.

Though not being Matty, I think this is the situation as regards regulations. Upto a MAX of 50v DC then BS EN ISO 10133:2012 small craft electrical systems DC applies. For DC voltages higher than 50V would be covered by - I think - IEC60092

Combiner boxes are used on solar installations of many Kw. In these it is normal to have a number of strings of panels - So for example you could have a dozen panels in series, which is one string and then have 2 or 3 strings in parallel. So each string can output 110% of rated current under ideal conditions and short circuit. The cable for a string is sized to suit the current. If a string were to develop a fault in say it's output box it would both take it's own short circuit current, but also it would short out the other parallel connected strings. This would result in n times the short circuit current going through cables and into the fault, where n is the number of strings. In this example that would be 3 strings, so 330% hence the need for a fuse. ADDED a fuse for both cables for each string. So in this example 6 fuses. Not a concern on my boat.

I do agree that a PU adhesive is very good stuff. However I thought a contact adhesive would be ok as it is often suggested by suppliers of acoustic foam. But Stixall is good.

I have a Squire lock and it needs a little tool to recode it. They are now a bit different in design to mine, but they still need a little tool. http://www.squirelocks.co.uk/pdfs/fitting_instructions/squire_recoding_instructions_cp50.pdf It may be a good idea to buy 2 locks, so that way you will have a spare recode tool for when you loose it. I put my recode tool in a safe place, so safe that even I can no longer find it

I would use a contact adhesive - toolstation & screwfix can supply. But both surfaces will need to be clean and certainly grease free etc. I would check the material the mats are made from as polyethylene film or foam does not glue well. But I would also consider flammability as they may burn easily and fast. When burning they may also 'drip' on to you and produce toxic fumes. So if you do go ahead and use them, I would put cover them with something that will give a degree of protection to give you a chance to get out. What were you thinking of covering them with?

If I remember correctly the thin barrier layer was introduced to reduce Oxygen permeability for recirculating heating pipes to reduce corrosion of radiators etc.

Sadly the PayPal buyer protection specifically excludes a number of things including - vehicles (including, without limitation, motor vehicles, motorcycles, caravans, aircraft and boats) as detailed in https://www.paypal.com/webapps/mpp/ua/useragreement-full?locale.x=en_GB#13 That does not stop you going through the legal process assuming you can still find them and they have assets and you can afford the costs and risks associated with losing.

Asthma can also be caused by moulds etc caused by damp. If the boat was fine in the summer (low humidity), but now you are having trouble (high humidity), it may be the stove, or it may be the moulds etc. Try burning good dry hardwood for a few days and see if that helps. Added = I also suffer a bit in the spring and autumn which is related to (I think) tree pollen in spring and moulds in the autumn. Are you under or near a lot of trees or other plants that may be causing it. Have you tried moving the boat to a more exposed location? Also some coal contains more sulphur than others, so are you using proper brand stuff or is it some smoky coal with lots of tar? Just ideas that may help you identify the cause.

and if the boat was unused for some time before you got it, it could have water in the fuel which has filled the separator.

To put boat systems into perspective - well mine anyway - the VOC is a max of 70vDC which is pretty similar to the voltage of an arc welder. Those are operated with exposed electrodes and an arc. A grid tie inverter as you will find on a house is very different and runs at a much higher voltage. I think 300+ is not uncommon, but I am happy to be corrected.

Ahhhh but if you use proper solar connectors - which I do - the pins are shrouded in plastic and you can not touch the metal pins. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1256179.pdf However you should not pull them apart under load as you will get a big arc. So if you are using a 240vAC switch as an isolator which will have only 3 or 4mm gap when the switch is open I would be very wary of 'opening' it under load. If you do want an isolator it must be DC rated for at least the voltage you use.

I disconnect the link cable between the 2 panels - it is the normal waterproof solar plug & socket. I would ideally do it before the sun is up so no voltage. But I have not needed to isolate the panels from the controller since I installed them.

I just noticed that you advised a "food grade" mincer. I do not want to know why

Using a coefficient of 0.114V per degree per panel. Temperature of -10c VOC rated at +25c which at -10c is a difference of 35C 35 multiplied by the coefficient of 0.114 = 3.99V per panel. So a 4 volt increase to give a panel VOC of 38+4 = 42V With 3 panels in series that gives 126V which for a 125V controller is pushing your luck, and is NOT an acceptable design safety margin for me.

Tooooooo muchhhhhh information

I do feel that with stuff for boats the price is set to partly reflect 'quality of parts' etc but also on what they think people will pay........... If I was buying a macerator again I would investigate a domestic model (240vAC) as I am sure they would be lower cost.

Graham - You may find this of interest - http://www.homepower.com/accounting-photovoltaic-cell-temperature On a very cold (-10c) day with bright sunlight you could see (depending upon the panels) a 4v per panel increase in VOC. So with 4 panels in series that would be over 15V. Added - That might be enough to apply too many volts and destroy your controller if your design had a small safety margin.

I will clarify my post as it was not clear. Up to 24V which is my domestic system I do not avoid touching the terminals etc, but do take great care to avoid high current errors. I consider my solar system in sunlight as hazardous as it runs at upto 70VDC and so I treat it in the same manner that I treat my 240V AC circuits. So I don't have exposed terminals, the cables are protected and clearly labelled etc. Also I will isolate the panels when working on the system. That said, I am more than happy to have a 70v solar system on the boat, and If I had a third panel I would add it in series to give about 110v DC.

The photo in the link for the kiln dried wood shows very clearly that it is hardwood.

Any thing more than my 24v system - solar at upto 70vDC and 240vAC I treat as very dangerous, and having read the above I have no intention of changing.

sanimarin is what I have, so far -touch wood - no problems.

Zinc is not very effective in fresh water and so just about all canal boats will use Magnesium. However it is very unwise to use Mg in salty water as it's 'voltage' is too high and they will not last long. If you are interested in anodes and cathodic protection, this is interesting. http://www.mgduff.co.uk/leisure-craft/cathodic-protection.html