Peugeot 106

I used Preston plywood ltd for decent light colour veneered one side oak ply. My mate is a cabinet maker and buys it in bulk and he recommended it. Sorry I can’t get photo as am miles away. Give them a ring they may know where to get it near you. I think it was called oak faced ply and they can’t be the only supplier. Price I seem to remember was ok. Maybe they can post sample. I tend to use Ronseal just because I always have unless I’m doing dinghies when I use Compass Varnish from International Paints RemeberTrade suppliers will usually quote ex VAT!

Quality boat building ply is very different from WBP or so called marine ply. It’s to do with number of ply’s, timber quality, surface veneer thicknesss, voids etc. you probably don’t need it. Robbins Quality is excellent the prices extortionate. There is a company in Falmouth supplies similar quality at a much cheaper price but still expensive. I would suggest that for your job you can find decent veneered ply at a decent price. Don’t bother about waterproofness they are all water proof but look at the veneer quality. A lot of marine ply sold in Builders Merchants is rubbish and I wouldn’t personally put mdf anywhere on any kind of boat it doesn’t stand damp very well. A lot of ply from diy stores is also rubbish. Try to find a timber merchant dealing in different plys. Don’t buy without seeing it!

Not got time to look carefully but on mine I gain a bit more room by undoing the gland tightening studs, sliding the pusher forwards and then taking the packing out and sliding the pusher back in. Obviously fill the gland with grease first and it shouldn’t leak. If you just need another 5-10mm this may help to support the gearbox I use a rope spanish windlass on a piece of 4x2 across the deck may not help but it did the trick for me

Staying with my cousin. 60 years ago when he was about 10 and his parents were out he stood on a chair and attacked the family grandfather clock face with brasso……….it looked dreadful and never kept time again wierdly age 72 he now has two grandfather clocks in his living room. I am looking after him after an op and the tick tocking is driving me mad. It’s like our life is ticking away

When I had my leak I wasn’t at my brightest and it took me quite a while to work out how to stem the flow. To start a syphon you suck so to stop it you blow!

One other small point is that if you blow down the pipe (into the tank) before fitting the valve it breaks any syphon and you stay dry! I used a ball valve with compression fittings Your last para exactly describes me. Hey Ho! I never leave dock without a bag full of tools, spares, manuals, oily clothes etc. I have to say they have been more useful to other boaters than me though I have had my moments. With a Narrowboat you can play housey housey and mechanic! There can be a lot of good advice and help off this forum as well as………All best

I stood on a pipe and cracked it before I went to bed in Wigan. In the morning the bilge was full of diesel! My pipe drops to the bottom of the tank hence it syphons and there is no easy way to drill a hole into it to break the syphon. It would be better if the pipe just spilled into the top of the tank. There’s also no mess when I change the filter. Fortunately in my case the diesel didn’t get out of the engine tray which is about 12 inch deep and 4 feet long but I can see if I had any more fuel in or I hadn’t spotted it that’s exactly what would have happened……….

I fitted a valve on my return line. It goes direct from the injectors to tank. It goes to the botttom of the tank and used to siphon back when I was changing the fuel filter and also once when a pipe came off. I was going to fit a non return valve as wanted it to be automatic but was advised that the increased back pressure caused by the return valve spring to the injectors was not good. Now I have a valve in the return line I always hang the keys from it to remind me to open the valve if I close it before starting Eg a filter change or winterisation. My engine is a Lister LPWS and I don’t know whether this precaution would be necessary for your Beta but thought it worth mentioning. There was a thread on this subject earlier

Word for word No comment you can read for yourself but aggression puts people (including me) off posting on what can me a very useful informative forum. I don’t see any harm in calling it out. We have all been guilty at one time or another but some more than others. I am discontinuing this spat unless you have to have the last word. I won’t be replying

Richard has been a help to me in the past. I didn’t see the video before I’ve made a note of it just in case…..

It might be worth having a chat with Richard at Primrose Engineering. There was a thread on here where he took a 120 box apart and explained the workings

21 hours ago YOU said “if it’s cast Iron” Suggest you count to three before going off the deep end. It’s not a good look and it puts people off contributing to this forum

That’s good I was worried about the plan to bash cast iron. It should be pretty obvious if it’s fabricated and not cast

I’d be very nervous heating and hammering cast iron. I’m pretty sure it will break. Should be ok if it’s cast steel but I’m not sure why anyone would make a cast steel stove due to expense. if you can get the front off cast iron can be cut and welded so you could take it to a welding shop. But as there is a shop specialising in villager stoves why not ask them what they think the stove is made from? Presumably if they need to they can ask the manufacturer

Who on earth is going to notice that !