Fitting an immersion heater to calorifier

[chubby]

Hello

After looking for a while I've found the boat for me . I've read on here before that the boat might choose you and when I visited the boat I knew very quickly it was perfect ...... Almost .

The calorifier is only heated by the engine . I understand that I can fit an immersion element for shore supply . My ( probably dumb) question is - is it simple enough to connect this to the 240 v electrics. I'd be ok to fit the immersion into the calorifier but actually connecting it may be a job I have to pay someone to do .

This is the only concern that is preventing me fr making an offer as I love everything else about the boat but don't want to just assume all this is straightforward only to find Ive made a costly misjudgement as there are inverters etc involved and it's complicated stuff for me . Thanks for any help - this forum has helped me a great deal over the last year or so that I've been reading it . Cheers , chubby

[jelunga]

A few poinnts.

Check the calorifier has a hoke for an immersion

If the calorifier is not young removing the blanking plate may cause damage.

Only fut a smaln 1kw max immersion

Make sure there is an expansion vessel

Are you going to be moored with a shore power most kf the time?

If you have an inverter, wire the immersion so it only works with shorepower od generatir. It will fkattern most battery banks as soon as blink!

[Grace and Favour]

A few poinnts.

Check the calorifier has a hoke for an immersion

If the calorifier is not young removing the blanking plate may cause damage.

Only fut a smaln 1kw max immersion

Make sure there is an expansion vessel

Are you going to be moored with a shore power most kf the time?

If you have an inverter, wire the immersion so it only works with shorepower od generatir. It will fkattern most battery banks as soon as blink!

 

Hi Fulinga....

 

Huve yuo thoghr abowt fittinf a new keyboarf?

[jelunga]

Hi Fulinga....

 

Huve yuo thoghr abowt fittinf a new keyboarf?

No keyboard. Just a pants touch pad on ipod and big fingers

[Paul C]

It would depends on your existing 240V electrics set up. For example, if you have an inverter and a changeover switch, you'd probably want to do a little modification to 'split' the shoreline into two circuits, one which feeds the changeover switch (and thus supplies the same electrical items as the inverter does, when on shoreline) and the other which feeds some "shoreline only" items - for example, a battery charger, immersion heater.

 

Remember to route cables properly with cable clips, cable ties etc, and if it goes through a bulkhead then adequate protection from chafing. And an appropriate fuse/circuit breaker for the rated load. Personally I'd also fit a switch with neon light, so that you know when its on and can choose when to have it on.

[ditchcrawler]

Remember you are dealing with mains electricity, if you do not feel competent to do the work yourself get an electrician to do it for you.

If you can fit the immersion in the tank yourself the rest shouldn't be a major headache.

[chubby]

Thankyou to all who've replied . I'm looking to make an offer on the boat so im really grateful for these v quick replies .

I'm pretty much in the dark with electrics and inverter s etc .

The model is MASTERVOLT DAKAR COMBI 12 2500-100.

 

I've fitted immersion elements into hot water tanks at home in the past so that's fine but connecting it up is beyond me but my friend is pretty clued up so I'd see if he felt confident otherwise I'll be paying just to be safe . I'll need to learn about all this sort of stuff and I'm looking forward to that but that's for later - hopefully soon .

Cheers again , chubby

[wonderdust]

Think about having a timer fitted to the immersion, that way the water can be timed to heat overnight without the risk of tripping the 240v.

Edited February 1, 2013 by wonderdust

[chubby]

Thanks again

 

I'll certainly be fitting a timer . Can anyone recommend a type or model and from where at all??

Any idea of costs too for 1 KW immersion and other bits needed . I expect the biggest cost will be an electrician if needed . Are these guys pricey . I don't mind as it means everything is safe but a ballpark figure would be helpful . As I say I'll fit the element myself .

It would seem that it's all entirely feasable and probably quite straightforward and of so I can begin looking to put in an offer !!

 

Cheers again for all your help , Chubby

[wonderdust]

I have one of These simply and easy to use there are others and cheaper im sure just google immersion timer.

A tip i got for fitting the immersion is to heat the blanking plug lightly with a blow torch if it is stuck.

I got my 1Kw immersion of ebay there are other places, just needs a search.

If you have 240v already installed its not to hard to add and extra circuit.

Edited February 1, 2013 by wonderdust

[keble]

Hi chubby, I did exactly that recently.

I got a boatyard plumber to fit the 1kw immersion heater (the calorifier already had a 'hole' for the heater).

I then did the wiring, fitting a fused switch and an RCD socket. Works a treat.

BTW I got lots of help on this forum on the right bits to get.

 

Ps can send you photos of the wiring if you want

Edited February 1, 2013 by keble

[chubby]

Thanks again Wonderdust

 

Very helpful stuff . It's good to know it's entirely feasable even if it costs a few bob .I'll look thru eBay and google for the bits needed

 

Cheers

 

Dean

 

Hi Keble

 

Thanks for your post . It's good to hear that you've done the same recently . I'd be grateful for any help you have , wiring diagrams etc. my mates pretty clued up about such things in his house but I wouldn't want to assume its that simple on a boat and I don't want to put pressure on him so diagrams would certainly help my mate to ascertain whether he d be confident and if not then I'd get someone in to connect it after I've fitted it into the tank itself .

 

Many thanks , chubby

[Phil Ambrose]

I have a 3kw immersion heater and have never had any problem, just heats up quicker but then I only ever use it when on shore power.

 

Phil

[NMEA]

Check the calorifier for type before buying an element, I know many (if not most) narowboats simply have domestic units fitted but if it has a proprietary marine unit it may be 1 1/2" BSP instead of the larger thread present on standard ones, you will easily recognise it if so, it is visibly smaller.

[mrsmelly]

Hello

After looking for a while I've found the boat for me . I've read on here before that the boat might choose you and when I visited the boat I knew very quickly it was perfect ...... Almost .

The calorifier is only heated by the engine . I understand that I can fit an immersion element for shore supply . My ( probably dumb) question is - is it simple enough to connect this to the 240 v electrics. I'd be ok to fit the immersion into the calorifier but actually connecting it may be a job I have to pay someone to do .

This is the only concern that is preventing me fr making an offer as I love everything else about the boat but don't want to just assume all this is straightforward only to find Ive made a costly misjudgement as there are inverters etc involved and it's complicated stuff for me . Thanks for any help - this forum has helped me a great deal over the last year or so that I've been reading it . Cheers , chubby

 

Hi

 

Its a doddle. If the calorifier has a hole and blanking plate then remove blanking plate and fit immersion heater, bought one couple of days ago from mid swin for 31 squid. Do not overtighten. wire some 3 core cable to immersion and run to nearest power point and wire in or just stick 13 amp plug on and plug it in. I am at present on permenant shore power with 1kw element and leave it on 24 hours a day so always hot water.

 

Tim

[chubby]

Hi again

 

It's good to see the word doddle - it makes me feel much more confident . I would only use it when on shore power could get bigger than 1 kw but if a 1kw does the trick then I'll go with that . Thanks again every one .

 

Cheers , Chubby

[smileypete]

If it's 1kW I'd consider just putting a 13amp plug on the end, but do use heat resisting cable. Fit a 5A fuse in the plug, should handle 1kW easy.

 

While you're at it, check there IS a pressure relief valve (PRV) fitted to the calorifer, they have a sprung conical plastic knob which when twisted lets water out of the side.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited February 1, 2013 by smileypete

[Skye]

Hi Fulinga....

 

Huve yuo thoghr abowt fittinf a new keyboarf?

lol gerenei thnigy for thta

[ditchcrawler]

Hi

 

Its a doddle. If the calorifier has a hole and blanking plate then remove blanking plate and fit immersion heater, bought one couple of days ago from mid swin for 31 squid. Do not overtighten. wire some 3 core cable to immersion and run to nearest power point and wire in or just stick 13 amp plug on and plug it in. I am at present on permenant shore power with 1kw element and leave it on 24 hours a day so always hot water.

 

Tim

Good price see here

[keble]

Thanks again Wonderdust

 

Very helpful stuff . It's good to know it's entirely feasable even if it costs a few bob .I'll look thru eBay and google for the bits needed

 

Cheers

 

Dean

 

Hi Keble

 

Thanks for your post . It's good to hear that you've done the same recently . I'd be grateful for any help you have , wiring diagrams etc. my mates pretty clued up about such things in his house but I wouldn't want to assume its that simple on a boat and I don't want to put pressure on him so diagrams would certainly help my mate to ascertain whether he d be confident and if not then I'd get someone in to connect it after I've fitted it into the tank itself .

 

Many thanks , chubby

 

Hi, here are some photos I took today.

 

Starting from the AC input: my shoreline comes in to the normal plug mounted on the bulkhead, and a cable runs from it to a double RCD (Residual Current Device - designed to protect you if there's a fault) socket.

One of those sockets is used for my battery charger and the other to a big switch that then selects either shoreline AC or AC from the inverter.

 

I want my immersion heater to be powered only from shoreline, so I have added another RCD socket - it's at the bottom right of the photo below.

 

I have then mounted a fused switch box (at the top right in the photo above) - this has a big red light so I can see when it's on. I probably didn't need both the switch and the RCD socket, since that has a switch as well, but I prefer the big lit switch.

 

The next photo below shows the wiring inside this switch - very easy (Blue is Neutral, Brown is Live, and green/yellow is Earth).

 

 

The cable from the switch output runs down to the calorifier. I kept the cable above floor level, in case of leaks.

 

Here's what the wiring looks like when the grey cover is removed:

 

The temperature can be adjusted with the black "screw" that's visible.

 

If you want more detail on AC wiring in boats there's a good article here

 

Hope this helps!

[chubby]

Hi Keble

 

That's very very helpful and I'm extremely grateful . Thankyou to everyone who has replied. Those using this forum are unbelievably generous with thier knowledge and advice . In the last year or so I've a few posts and read the forums regularly and now I've just put an offer in on a boat which was accepted and the survey is booked for 07/02 .

It's a private sale - no broker so my next question is coming up shortly ....

 

Cheers again . I hope in the fullness of time I can be of help to other novices , chubby

[TheCrowsNest]

Hi, here are some photos I took today.

 

Starting from the AC input: my shoreline comes in to the normal plug mounted on the bulkhead, and a cable runs from it to a double RCD (Residual Current Device - designed to protect you if there's a fault) socket.

One of those sockets is used for my battery charger and the other to a big switch that then selects either shoreline AC or AC from the inverter.

 

I want my immersion heater to be powered only from shoreline, so I have added another RCD socket - it's at the bottom right of the photo below.

 

I have then mounted a fused switch box (at the top right in the photo above) - this has a big red light so I can see when it's on. I probably didn't need both the switch and the RCD socket, since that has a switch as well, but I prefer the big lit switch.

 

The next photo below shows the wiring inside this switch - very easy (Blue is Neutral, Brown is Live, and green/yellow is Earth).

 

 

The cable from the switch output runs down to the calorifier. I kept the cable above floor level, in case of leaks.

 

Here's what the wiring looks like when the grey cover is removed:

 

The temperature can be adjusted with the black "screw" that's visible.

 

If you want more detail on AC wiring in boats there's a good article here

 

Hope this helps!

 

Thank you, I found this very useful too!

[snigsnig]

Daft question but how long should a 1kw immersion take to heat an average sized calorifier? Mine takes about an hour at least, and wondering about replacing with a new/higher kw one.

 

Thanks

 

Neil

[nicknorman]

Daft question but how long should a 1kw immersion take to heat an average sized calorifier? Mine takes about an hour at least, and wondering about replacing with a new/higher kw one.

 

Thanks

 

Neil

That sounds about right for a 1kw one. If you fit a higher KW one, just bear in mind that of course you need a more robust shore supply / generator and whilst its on, your ability to use other high power devices is reduced. Personally I think 1kw is adequate, just put it on before you need it, maybe use a timeswitch.

[snigsnig]

Great, cheers! As long as I know that's about right I'm not too concerned. Just starting to monitor how much it costs me on the shoreline too, so once I've figured that out I can calculate things better.

 

Neil