Wooden floor split

[lesrollins]

Hi

we have recently installed a solid oak flooring through out the boat it is the uni click style. We put a thin foam barrier down before laying the floor, the flooring was allowed to acclimatise before being put down and there is a good expansion gap around the edges.

The problem is that one of the boards as split straight down the middle, what might of caused this and whats the best way to repair it. The board is in a middle section of the floor and it would be a lot of hassle to take it up to replace the board.

Cheers

[Giggetty]

Hi

we have recently installed a solid oak flooring through out the boat it is the uni click style. We put a thin foam barrier down before laying the floor, the flooring was allowed to acclimatise before being put down and there is a good expansion gap around the edges.

The problem is that one of the boards as split straight down the middle, what might of caused this and whats the best way to repair it. The board is in a middle section of the floor and it would be a lot of hassle to take it up to replace the board.

Cheers

 

I've had this problem too-concealed it with a piece of carpet in the end.

[fudd]

The only thing I can think of is that the board had a fault in it during manufacture. Does it have a different grain from the rest of the floor? Quarter sawn boards are more stable generally than crown cut. If a rogue board got in there somehow it may not move in the same way as the rest of the floor. If its a straight split then you could Possibly run a skillsaw along it using a straight edge. Parallel the cuts and glue in a strip of oak. If you have access to a router, then you could trench out the split with say, an 18 mm cutter. Only go about 8 mm deep. I did this on a floor that had opened up at every joint. it was very labour intensive but that was about three years ago and its still good.Use a left over piece of flooring. There's a lot to be said about engineered boards I'm afraid to say. We laid an oak floor in our boat. Six mm thick oak on ply. Hasn't moved at all. Had some spillages, no problem. You can't see the ply underneath. I'm old school but I know when I've been beaten and engineered boards over oak would be my choice any day. Inside of course. Outside that's a different kettle of fish. Good luck

Edited December 21, 2012 by fudd

[carlt]

I always palletise solid wood flooring so that I have access to the bilges and can easily lift or move a section that is damaged.

 

I also think that the underlay stuff encourages cracking because it allows the wood to flex when walked on allowing it to split along dried out grain.

 

That said, if the split isn't a gaping hole I'd be tempted just to fill it with a dark filler to add character.

 

Engineered boards are, as Fudd says, perfect but only if you want your floor to look brand new in 5 years time.

 

Personally I want my floors to look a hundred years old the day after they are laid so I use reclaimed timber and add a bit of age to it artificially as the reclamation yards are cleaning up their stock a bit too much these days, in my opinion.

[fudd]

I always palletise solid wood flooring so that I have access to the bilges and can easily lift or move a section that is damaged.

 

I also think that the underlay stuff encourages cracking because it allows the wood to flex when walked on allowing it to split along dried out grain.

 

That said, if the split isn't a gaping hole I'd be tempted just to fill it with a dark filler to add character.

 

Engineered boards are, as Fudd says, perfect but only if you want your floor to look brand new in 5 years time.

 

Personally I want my floors to look a hundred years old the day after they are laid so I use reclaimed timber and add a bit of age to it artificially as the reclamation yards are cleaning up their stock a bit too much these days, in my opinion.

We chose aged boards. They look worn in. They won't split though hopefully, and if one did it would look unnatural. Unlike a floor that ages and maybe splits and moves over its whole area. That's the beauty of 'real' oak.

I once saw a floor that was laid with all the shakes and splits left in. It was then filled with epoxy resin and sanded. It looked lovely. But it's a bit of a dark art to match a single board in the centre of the room. I nearly had a row with my other half because in one of the packs was a wired board with a big Knot in it. She wanted it in the middle of the room. It would have looked odd. It ended up accidentally under the bed.

[lesrollins]

What would be the best filler to use once it as been sanded and prepaired

[bigcol]

I have just had engineered antique looking wood flooring fitted, over solid oak flooring.

looks great down and has been glued down, it wasnt the click system,

as it always seem to flex/move,when ive had it laid before,

so this flooring has been glued will never move or split.

 

 

I have 12 square mtrs of honey solid wood flooring still in its packs for sale

18mm solid oak £500s worth.

if anyone is interested to use in their boat, the lot £100 for forum members and collection

i can send pics

 

col

Edited December 21, 2012 by bigcol

[MtB]

The only thing I can think of is that the board had a fault in it during manufacture.

 

Given the OP says this is solid oak, he needs to take it up with God surely.

 

But seriously, this seems to me to be a feature of natural wood. I expect more splits will appear eventually!

 

MtB

[lexicon]

I have just had engineered antique looking wood flooring fitted, over solid oak flooring.

looks great down and has been glued down, it wasnt the click system,

as it always seem to flex/move,when ive had it laid before,

so this flooring has been glued will never move or split.

 

 

I have 12 square mtrs of honey solid wood flooring still in its packs for sale

18mm solid oak £500s worth.

if anyone is interested to use in their boat, the lot £100 for forum members and collection

i can send pics

 

col

 

Hi Col

 

I would be interested if you could send a few pics to me.

[lesrollins]

Cheers mike you are a ray of hope, will i need to wear slippers to prevent getting splinters in ones foot.

[fudd]

What would be the best filler to use once it as been sanded and prepaired

How wide and deep is the split? It may not have gone all the way through.

 

Hi Col

 

I would be interested if you could send a few pics to me.

Bear in mind that it may split at some stage. This is not unheard of. ?

[lesrollins]

I will post a picture of the split and take some measurements later. Cheers

[MtB]

Cheers mike you are a ray of hope, will i need to wear slippers to prevent getting splinters in ones foot.

 

You're welcome. Always pleased to be of help and assistance.

 

Yes, slippers would help one avoid splinters. Good idea. Maybe stick some sandpaper on the soles too.

 

 

MtB

[Mike Tee]

You're welcome. Always pleased to be of help and assistance.

 

Yes, slippers would help one avoid splinters. Good idea. Maybe stick some sandpaper on the soles too.

 

 

MtB

320 on one and 80 on the other?

[smileypete]

Hi

we have recently installed a solid oak flooring through out the boat it is the uni click style. We put a thin foam barrier down before laying the floor, the flooring was allowed to acclimatise before being put down and there is a good expansion gap around the edges.

The problem is that one of the boards as split straight down the middle, what might of caused this and whats the best way to repair it. The board is in a middle section of the floor and it would be a lot of hassle to take it up to replace the board.

Cheers

What caused it? Low humidity from stove use may be partly the reason. How to repair it? If it's small it may close up in spring, then maybe work some decent PVA glue into the crack.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited December 21, 2012 by smileypete

[bigcol]

Just to let folks know

 

had a few enquiries re the flooring and the whole lot was sold this morning.

have a great christmas all

 

 

 

col

[fudd]

What caused it? Low humidity from stove use may be partly the reason. How to repair it? If it's small it may close up in spring, then maybe work some decent PVA glue into the crack.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Very true Pete. As long as you are in no particular rush, you could just wait and see. I think I'd be more inclined to mix up a loose cascamite base. If you have a sander then sand an uffcut of the oak and mix it in with the glue. Don't make it too thick. Then clean out the gap and pour it in. Make sure it's clean. Leave it very slightly high and let it find its level. You don't want to sand it flat. It will leave a big mark. All you want to do is pour enough in to fill it plus a bit to allow for shrinkage. I've done this with table tops and cabinets before and it works. Just don't forget that it's a floor and it will get scrapes and the odd gouge. Then forget about it. Good luck

Steve P

[bigcol]

I changed my floorng because I had problems with existing laid laminate floor coming a part at the joins.

had 6mm foam underlay (looked like carpet underlay) and 4/5mm b/q laminate.

 

Glad I got rid, problem was obvious spongy underlay was thicker than the laminate

 

have now had engineered flooring fitted, glued down direct to the 22mm base.

Engineered wooded flooring is more tollerent to tempertures etc than solid wood by the way its manufactored

so far so good, I did buy solid oak, but didnt lay it due to plenty of advice re problems with solid wood being in a boat enviroment.

 

its alsways worth paying a bit more and getting the thicker product, whether laminate or engineered or wooden flooring

 

all the best

 

col

Edited December 23, 2012 by bigcol