API CC spec oil

[blackrose]

I've been using Texaco Ursatex 15/40 HD oil in my engine but I have now run out and this particular oil has been discontinued. Can anyone recommend another good brand of 15/40 viscosity API CC spec oil?

 

Thanks

Edited April 4, 2011 by blackrose

[alan_fincher]

Well

 

Golden Film Marine 10w/40 Engine Oil API CC/SF

 

claims that.....

 

The SAE 10w/40 classification makes the lubricant suitable for use in all canal boat engines where an SAE 15w/40 may be required. SAE 10w/40 will flow more rapidly at low temperatures providing improved component protection.

 

No doubt a good oil, if not exactly the cheapest.

[Keeping Up]

Not an exact answer I know, but does it have to be 15/40? My own engine specifies that 20/50 is OK at temperatures above -5^oC, so I use Comma Premium 20/50 which is an excellent API-CC oil. My local motor factor sells it at £10 per gallon.

[blackrose]

Can I mix viscosities? I thought I had enough to fill the gearbox but it needs topping up. I could just drain it out and refill it with the new stuff but it's impossible to get the old oil out without draining it into the oil tray and I've already cleaned it up.

[alan_fincher]

Can I mix viscosities? I thought I had enough to fill the gearbox but it needs topping up. I could just drain it out and refill it with the new stuff but it's impossible to get the old oil out without draining it into the oil tray and I've already cleaned it up.

I believe you have a PRM box ?

 

When I have spoken to them in the past, they are very relaxed that "just about any oil that is suitable for a boat engine" can go in the box.

 

I'd be very surprised if there were any issues about mixing slightly different blends or viscosities.

 

Certainly they said a monograde or a multi-grade were equally suitable, when I contacted them, and I have systematically used up a can of SAE 30 monograde in my PRM box, after deciding to stop using it in the engine itself.

 

API spec is clearly unimportant to, (for a PRM box), if they say "the same oil as in your engine", because some engine manufacturers restrict you to API-CC or API-CD specs, whereas others allow a much less obsolete spec.

[blackrose]

Ok, thanks.

[boots]

Don't know if this is of any interest, but B&Q are selling Carlube Daytona 20w50 (API CC) at £10.98 for 4.5lt

 

(http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?isSearch=true&fh_search=daytona&x=20&y=12)

 

Haven't used this, nor have any info as to whether it is any good,

 

Martin

[blackrose]

Not an exact answer I know, but does it have to be 15/40? My own engine specifies that 20/50 is OK at temperatures above -5^oC, so I use Comma Premium 20/50 which is an excellent API-CC oil. My local motor factor sells it at £10 per gallon.

 

Thanks, I'll go down to my local discount car parts supplier and see what oils thay have.

[nb Innisfree]

I believe you have a PRM box ?

 

When I have spoken to them in the past, they are very relaxed that "just about any oil that is suitable for a boat engine" can go in the box.

 

I'd be very surprised if there were any issues about mixing slightly different blends or viscosities.

 

Certainly they said a monograde or a multi-grade were equally suitable, when I contacted them, and I have systematically used up a can of SAE 30 monograde in my PRM box, after deciding to stop using it in the engine itself.

 

API spec is clearly unimportant to, (for a PRM box), if they say "the same oil as in your engine", because some engine manufacturers restrict you to API-CC or API-CD specs, whereas others allow a much less obsolete spec.

 

When I asked them for oil change intervals they said 'same as the engine' when I proposed different engines on the same box they finished up saying 'ok once a year then'

[Keeping Up]

Thanks, I'll go down to my local discount car parts supplier and see what oils thay have.

 

Just checked, it's Multitruck that I use.

 

They normally have only 1 or 2 gallons in stock, I normally phone them a week beforehand and stock up with a year's supply at a time. I use it in the engine and gearbox, and have sometimes mixed the grades with no known problems. Back when I used 15/40 my engine always had a tendency to drink oil and the gearbox had a tendency to leak (usually around the selector shaft); both these problems were much improved when I changed to 20/50.

[journeyperson]

Don't know if this is of any interest, but B&Q are selling Carlube Daytona 20w50 (API CC) at £10.98 for 4.5lt

 

(http://www.diy.com/d...ytona&x=20&y=12)

 

Haven't used this, nor have any info as to whether it is any good,

 

Martin

 

I've used it off and on for 3 years now and it is fine. I put it in my PRM gearbox too.

[Bimbly1]

Don't know if this is of any interest, but B&Q are selling Carlube Daytona 20w50 (API CC) at £10.98 for 4.5lt

 

(http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?isSearch=true&fh_search=daytona&x=20&y=12)

 

Haven't used this, nor have any info as to whether it is any good,

 

Martin

Any idea if this would be ok for a Barrus Shire 45, 2006 spec? Barrus recommend a 15w40 API CD.

[blackrose]

Off topic, but I usually change the fuel filter and water trap/sediment element at the same time as the oil and filter change (every 250 hours). But do I really need to change the fuel filter so often? I mean how often do owners of diesel cars change their fuel filter? Is red much dirtier than white or is where it's been stored dirtier?

[XAlan W]

I've been using Texaco Ursatex 15/40 HD oil in my engine but I have now run out and this particular oil has been discontinued. Can anyone recommend another good brand of 15/40 viscosity API CC spec oil?

 

Thanks

Try www.opie oils .co.uk good website even if you don`t find what you are looking for

[ditchcrawler]

I have used Qualube Classic Universal Oil

[journeyperson]

Any idea if this would be ok for a Barrus Shire 45, 2006 spec? Barrus recommend a 15w40 API CD.

 

Try Carlube Turbo Diesel (for non turbos too) 15w40 API-CH, which has superceded CD I think. also sold by B&Q. I've got it in my 1993 Lister Petter engine at the moment and it seems to like it.

[journeyperson]

Off topic, but I usually change the fuel filter and water trap/sediment element at the same time as the oil and filter change (every 250 hours). But do I really need to change the fuel filter so often? I mean how often do owners of diesel cars change their fuel filter? Is red much dirtier than white or is where it's been stored dirtier?

 

I used to change the fuel filter at least every oil change but now I can tell when it needs changing by the way the engine is running. When it begins to start to want to stall when I reduce the revs quickly I know the filter is getting gunged up and that's about every other oil change now. Over 3 years the fuel has gradually run cleaner; at first I was changing fuel filters every three months. I bought a boat that had a lot of muck in the tank I think.

[ditchcrawler]

Off topic, but I usually change the fuel filter and water trap/sediment element at the same time as the oil and filter change (every 250 hours). But do I really need to change the fuel filter so often? I mean how often do owners of diesel cars change their fuel filter? Is red much dirtier than white or is where it's been stored dirtier?

I change mine about every 1500 hrs because I am to lazy to do it more often.

[Keeping Up]

Try Carlube Turbo Diesel (for non turbos too) 15w40 API-CH, which has superceded CD I think. also sold by B&Q. I've got it in my 1993 Lister Petter engine at the moment and it seems to like it.

 

Conventional wisdom says that the higher-spec oils (especially anything above CF) are bad for canal boat engines because they don't get hot enough so they gum things up, glaze the bores, and generally misbehave.

 

I change mine about every 1500 hrs because I am to lazy to do it more often.

 

Me too - that's about once a year. But they are saying that you should do an extra change after the first time you have used a tankful of Bio-diesel.

[alan_fincher]

Me too - that's about once a year. But they are saying that you should do an extra change after the first time you have used a tankful of Bio-diesel.

[pedant] I presume you mean when you have used a tankful that contained some bio-diesel ? [/pedant]

 

Last I heard from one of the coal boats was that the supplier hadn't yet been able to tell them whether a consignment did, or didn't, so it may not be entirely easy to know when this first occurs!

[journeyperson]

[pedant] I presume you mean when you have used a tankful that contained some bio-diesel ? [/pedant]

 

Last I heard from one of the coal boats was that the supplier hadn't yet been able to tell them whether a consignment did, or didn't, so it may not be entirely easy to know when this first occurs!

 

When I filled up last week I asked if it contained bio -diesel and he looked at me and said "Don't get technical, it's fuel oil, that's all I know".

[churchward]

Can I mix viscosities? I thought I had enough to fill the gearbox but it needs topping up. I could just drain it out and refill it with the new stuff but it's impossible to get the old oil out without draining it into the oil tray and I've already cleaned it up.

In your engine DO NOT mix viscosities however it will probably be OK in a hydraulic box context. However, it is better to be safe than sorry. Mixing different viscosities together even though similar can have some odd results. A small amount to just top up relative to the full capacity probably isn't going to have much effect.

 

Conventional wisdom says that the higher-spec oils (especially anything above CF) are bad for canal boat engines because they don't get hot enough so they gum things up, glaze the bores, and generally misbehave.

 

 

 

Me too - that's about once a year. But they are saying that you should do an extra change after the first time you have used a tankful of Bio-diesel.

For conventional wisdom read urban myth ie if everyone says it's true it must be. It has been gone through many times and I am just fed up of trying to make a reasoned argument against such myths perceived wisdom. In some cases using CF oil will be just fine and some not. A CF oil will not "gum things up". Bore glazing is quite rare and is normally found in poorly run in engines.

 

If it was just a matter of engine temperature one could fit a higher rated thermostat to compensate.

[alan_fincher]

For conventional wisdom read urban myth ie if everyone says it's true it must be. It has been gone through many times and I am just fed up of trying to make a reasoned argument against such myths perceived wisdom.

But at least one of the marinisers (of recent engines) was issuing explicit instruction not to go higher than an API-CC spec, (API-CD in an emergency). They confirmed this requirement to forum members who rang them up to check.

 

I don't wish to revisit the old arguments with you, but people should be aware that it is possible your engine manufacturer and/or mariniser will have documented that a "higher" spec oil should not be used.

 

If there were issues with an engine still under warranty, and it could be demonstrated you had not followed the stated oil requirements, at the very least I can see it would give them wriggling room.

 

Compared to the total costs of boat ownership, possible savings by deviating from a manufacturers requirements on oils will be very small.

 

It's an individual choice, of course.

[Keeping Up]

For conventional wisdom read urban myth ie if everyone says it's true it must be. It has been gone through many times and I am just fed up of trying to make a reasoned argument against such myths perceived wisdom. In some cases using CF oil will be just fine and some not. A CF oil will not "gum things up". Bore glazing is quite rare and is normally found in poorly run in engines.

 

If it was just a matter of engine temperature one could fit a higher rated thermostat to compensate.

 

My original post referred especially to oils "above CF", particularly as Perkins have stated in writing that oils up to CF are fine for my engine but that anything higher is not suitable.

 

I don't believe anyone is talking about the general engine temperature which is controlled by the thermostat, but instead they are talking about the much greater temperatures which are reached within the engine. Changing the thermostat would not make much difference to them.

 

Incidentally the bores of my engine were glazed when I got it, from the treatment it had received when running in during construction of the boat, since when I have taken the trouble to follow the relevant arguments - whether urban myth (such as the old one about needing to have the engine in gear) or otherwise.

[n.b.Goldie]

My original post referred especially to oils "above CF", particularly as Perkins have stated in writing that oils up to CF are fine for my engine but that anything higher is not suitable.

 

I don't believe anyone is talking about the general engine temperature which is controlled by the thermostat, but instead they are talking about the much greater temperatures which are reached within the engine. Changing the thermostat would not make much difference to them.

 

Incidentally the bores of my engine were glazed when I got it, from the treatment it had received when running in during construction of the boat, since when I have taken the trouble to follow the relevant arguments - whether urban myth (such as the old one about needing to have the engine in gear) or otherwise.

 

 

The bores of my Lister LPWS3 are glazed due, the survyor said, to light loads for too long. I have bought some glaze busting fuel additive from Morris Lubricants but have yet to try it. It is quite pricy at £60 for five litres so I am hoping it works! Anyone tried it?

 

Regards

Ditchdabbler